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 268Likes
09-27-2013, 12:56 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Sydney,
NSW
Cobra Make, Engine: Puckett 250 GTO - LS1
Posts: 567
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Not Ranked
Continuing on the interior theme. I have made up aluminium interior panels to replace the cloth covered plastic trim in the standard 240Zs.
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09-27-2013, 01:09 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Sydney,
NSW
Cobra Make, Engine: Puckett 250 GTO - LS1
Posts: 567
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Not Ranked
We all know that building a kit car is a long way from inserting 'Tab A' into 'Slot A'... Unfortunately.
When I pulled the front guards out to match the new sill (rocker) I realised just how much stress I was placing on the panel so I ran a cut along the curvature at the top of the guard and re-fibreglassed. I also had to create new lower sections of the guard to match the profile of the new sills. This is still a work in progress.
Last edited by PeterAllen; 09-27-2013 at 01:53 AM..
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09-27-2013, 01:25 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Sydney,
NSW
Cobra Make, Engine: Puckett 250 GTO - LS1
Posts: 567
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Not Ranked
I made up new splash guards to sit inside the front mud guards (fenders). The hatched area indicates the profile of the old guard and illustrates the width of the GTO guards.
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09-27-2013, 01:38 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Sydney,
NSW
Cobra Make, Engine: Puckett 250 GTO - LS1
Posts: 567
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Not Ranked
I got the locks and finger pulls worked out - thanks to all who responded to the separate thread. Really annoyed that a $19 lock cost $62 to have posted, however I bought four, all keyed alike (two for the doors and one spare), and the postage didn't hurt so much.
Anyway, must get back down the shed.
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09-27-2013, 04:13 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Sydney,
NSW
Cobra Make, Engine: RCM, Jag front and rear, LS3
Posts: 1,640
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Not Ranked
Peter,
Good to see you are making progress. Looks like a lot of hours of work has been spent since the last update.
Liam
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09-27-2013, 07:06 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Sydney,
NSW
Cobra Make, Engine: Puckett 250 GTO - LS1
Posts: 567
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by HealeyRick
... Are they the Dayton dental drives?....
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Yes, see post #46.
They are 6" front and 7" rear to keep the car's overall appearance 'in period'.
Last edited by PeterAllen; 09-27-2013 at 07:11 PM..
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10-29-2013, 05:10 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Sydney,
NSW
Cobra Make, Engine: Puckett 250 GTO - LS1
Posts: 567
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Not Ranked
After a few weeks of coating myself in fibreglass dust I enjoyed a 'bling' moment this evening. Just so I would be happy with the paint colour I picked up a sample can of Rosso Cina (Red China) which had been made up and the guys at TAFE splashed a bit on an old door skin... I think I'm in love. Just the motivation to keep on sanding.
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10-29-2013, 05:33 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Sunbury,
VIC
Cobra Make, Engine: Rat Rod Racer, LS1 & T56
Posts: 5,391
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Not Ranked
Looks great Peter. You need those motivation moments every now and then because sanding sucks. I just installed my seats to fire up my motivation.
Cheers
__________________
Mike Murphy
Melbourne Australia
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12-21-2013, 03:53 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Sydney,
NSW
Cobra Make, Engine: Puckett 250 GTO - LS1
Posts: 567
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Not Ranked
Trying desperately to meet a self-imposed deadline of attaching the rear fibreglass by Jan 1st and need some advice. Fibreglass will enclose all the rear panels of the Datsun leaving quite an air gap between the two, except where the fibreglass actually glues to the steel.
The shell was media blasted and etch primed and I wondering if I should apply something more to the Datsun panels to assist corrosion prevention, etc? It's all hidden so it can even be brushed on.
Last edited by PeterAllen; 12-21-2013 at 04:22 PM..
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12-21-2013, 06:45 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Redding,
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: Cobra Maker
Posts: 722
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Not Ranked
I would use a self eching primer like Rino or Rustolim
__________________
Bill Emerson
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12-22-2013, 03:36 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Sydney,
NSW
Cobra Make, Engine: RCM, Jag front and rear, LS3
Posts: 1,640
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Not Ranked
If it's been painted properly with etch primer I would clean it with wax and grease remover, then give it a light sand, touch up any spots you rubbed through with etch primer then just spray it with either an acrylic black or por15. Probably just the Gmh chassis black would be sufficient and is cheap to buy. Placed like supercheap have it ready mixed off the shelf.
It's not going to be exposed to sun or chipping and scratching so I probably wouldn't waste money on 2k or por15.
Liam
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12-23-2013, 03:45 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Newcastle, Warners Bay,
NSW
Cobra Make, Engine: RMC . 393 Dart alloy block Stroked 351 alloy heads ..all the goodies plus a pre oiler. al
Posts: 1,495
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Not Ranked
Seal it ! primer likes to absorb moisture .... primer is designed to absorb ! Just use what paint you have ...a slick coat will seal it !  |
12-23-2013, 05:25 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 773
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Not Ranked
Looking good Peter. Love the color.
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01-09-2014, 04:01 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Sydney,
NSW
Cobra Make, Engine: Puckett 250 GTO - LS1
Posts: 567
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Not Ranked
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01-09-2014, 04:11 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Sydney,
NSW
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic Revival #3199. 366ci L76, T56 6 speed, Blue circle custom paint, Australias most original cobra 2009-2010
Posts: 2,396
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterAllen
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Ouch!
__________________
Proudly registered since 2013.
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01-09-2014, 04:13 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Sunbury,
VIC
Cobra Make, Engine: Rat Rod Racer, LS1 & T56
Posts: 5,391
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Not Ranked
That's a shame, I really liked that car. He hasn't had a lot of luck with his own cars. His original Cobra replica got written off too.
Cheers
__________________
Mike Murphy
Melbourne Australia
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01-09-2014, 07:53 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Perth,
wa
Cobra Make, Engine: Pace Alumina 427 #69
Posts: 1,615
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Not Ranked
i might have a go at getting this car. looks like a good project.
Looks like it needs a new door panel and front clip. Are these panels really $4300?
Is there anyone on the forum that could help with getting the car to a transport depot?
__________________
RF12 414 Windsor 8 stack ,6spd, Avons
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01-09-2014, 09:39 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Sydney,
NSW
Cobra Make, Engine: Puckett 250 GTO - LS1
Posts: 567
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Not Ranked
I have the 'Puckett' kit which is extremely rare - probably less that 6 in exsitence - and is the best representation by far of the real thing. The moulds were dumped in the USA as the result of a legal case and as far as I am aware they no longer exist.
I would be willing to offer the nose section of my kit, free, as a plug for a mould to be made simply for the reassurance that one exist, particularly here in Oz. If anyone is interested in Ian's car and would like to have the mould made (it then becomes your property) please send me a PM to discuss. I would guess you could have the mould plus a unit produced for well under $4300.
Last edited by PeterAllen; 01-09-2014 at 09:41 PM..
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02-13-2014, 12:25 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Sydney,
NSW
Cobra Make, Engine: Puckett 250 GTO - LS1
Posts: 567
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Not Ranked
Bugger, bugger, bugger, bugger, bugger, bugger ...
I have spent months and months aligning all the pieces of the rear section someone had cut off when trying to make a roadster from the berlinetta kit. As well I made up pieces that were missing altogether and all the joining edges were chamfered inside and out, I even used a laser to get them positioned within millimetres. I laid lightweight matting at strategic points and then carefully removed the rear as one section.
With easy access off the car I went to town on laying heavy (600g) matting both inside and outside the joins. I made up Q-cell paste and applied it to the outside and started to sand it all smooth. Last night I refitted the section and found the bloody thing had distorted when I applied the heavy matting... bugger, bugger, bugger ...
I've only ever laid up fibreglass in moulds I'd made or relatively small patch work and I wasn't attuned to the stresses created with curing resin of the scale I had used.
I've gone back to square one (photo) and cut the whole bloody thing up and will redo it somehow attached to the shell to act like a mould.
Does anyone have Stephen Bradbury's phone number, I'm in need of some luck!
Last edited by PeterAllen; 02-13-2014 at 04:04 AM..
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