250 GTO - the enemy within!

[maytinhaio7]

Originally Posted by PeterAllen

Yes, go ahead, boo and hiss...

I have been looking for an Individually Constructed Vehicle forum for some helpful advice on my, dare I say it, 250 GTO build. The build has been going on for a few years and most of the structural and mechanical work is done, I am just starting to get into body modifications the fiddly bits where I will be seeking some experienced input and knowledge of specialist suppliers.

It's rotisserie up build of a Datsun 240Z shell with LS1 running gear - I must say I was surprised but glad to see that LSXs are run in Cobras - and it is cloaked in a fibreglass 250 GTO body.

Peter
Sydney (Sutherland)

Up cho thông tin h?u Ã*ch

[Aussie Mike]

Originally Posted by PeterAllen

Wheels maketh the car... and they all get it wrong.

All that effort stuffed up by the rear wheels, it makes me want to cry. You HAVE TO remove the original fuel tank, lower the car substantially and fit 16" rims with high aspect ratio tyres, or is my bias showing?

I agree. The wheels and ride heights look completely wrong on those other replicas. Spoils the whole look of the car for me.

[Zedn]

I hadnt noticed that before. Looks to be the difference between looking like a datsun with a body kit and looking like the real thing.

Please tell me Peter there will be no Holden valve covers on yours!

[PeterAllen]

Originally Posted by Rob. Smith

...Building a car from scratch is a very rewarding task !

Rob, which S&M Club do you frequent!

The Vanilla Sky car was from Tom McBurnie’s ThunderRanch, now trading as Carrera Coachwerks.

I make no pretence it’s other than what it is – a Datsun with Chev running gear and a fibreglass body. I take the approach that if I can get something to look like a genuine Ferrari item then I’ll go ahead, e.g. knock-offs. I don't want something that looks like it came from a $2 shop and has a Ferrari sticker on it.

The valve covers are kinda pushing the limits. I found them on eBay, fairly cheap considering they had been machined out of a solid billet. My initial thoughts were to run a series of welds along the top surface and engrave back to the raised ‘Ferrari’ pattern; however, when I measured them I discovered that the top area was 6mm thick which was enough for engraving.

I first welded up the two inner mounting points (gee, I hope the whole thing doesn’t leak) then I had the ‘Ferrari’ and grooves engraved, and then I gave it a light skim with a fly cutter to remove the manufacturer’s engraving. Finally the larger areas were fly cut to leave the raised pattern and I gave it all a deburr.

They will be painted wrinkle black before final installation.

[Rob. Smith]

yeah I've built dune buggies,offroad and registered..re built a 68 two door cortina with a p76 v8 in it and appropriate running gear...rebuilt from total strip a 72 Mach 1 mustang and now the longest project because of RTA rule changes my cobra....changed chassis, suspension, bodywork and lots of stuff most would be happy with. not me ! Glutton for punishment i suppose .

[trularin]

I really like this thread.

[PeterAllen]

I got to play in the shed for a bit this afternoon as ‘mum’ slept off the Mother’s Day lunch. I’m trying to get the underside plumbing done while it’s still on the rotisserie. For the GM fuel pump I was hoping to use ‘in period’ hose and clamp layout rather than the AN fittings and braided hose. I really had no joy finding anything and was resigned to the AN fittings. I was looking at Earls and other brand fittings trying to obtain a barb attachment to utilize with the hose. In the preliminary build I had used the plumbing from the VZ donor just to get the motor running and the wiring, etc., but a close look today revealed that the fittings I was after came with the donor. A few judicious cuts with a Stanley knife and there they were. Saved a few bob as well!

[Bill E]

Having a few dead players laying about can save thousands in trips to the parts store. You will find over time that the OEM guys have tougher parts than most of the after market guys. It is a constant battle of wills with my wife though, she thinks I need a intervention as a hoarder. They should do a reality show on guys doing cars at home.

[Zedn]

Peter, what hose are you using with those dolmer fittings? Those are supposed to work with plastic line, summit racing sell all the parts. Are you going to clamp hose to it? Russell also have good quick disconnect fittings with a screw on retainer so they can't pop off.

[PeterAllen]

Zedn - You're right, Summit do have a -08 AN female to barb, I hadn't looked there. I did look at one US site but they wanted $56 postage, so I gave up. Is Summit more reasonable on postage? Only thing is the two items (push-on EFI and, AN to barb) provide the same functionality that I have with the single salvaged OEM part.

In the OEM fuel system there is a 'Y' junction (#1 from filter outlet, #2 excess return to tank & #3 to fuel rails) and the plastic fuel hose is merely a shrink fit, like the GM fitting in the earlier post, i.e. there is no bonding of the materials. I feel confident if that process is okay then an approved fuel hose and hose clamp should be fine.

I'm more than happy to hear any arguments against what I'm proposing - thanks.

[Zedn]

All the dorman stuff is here http://www.summitracing.com/search/b...ew=ProductName

Summit is really good on shipping prices. They partnered with a shipping company last year that provide really good rates to Australia. Their website automatically calculates shipping to australia so just add what you want to the cart and then select Australia for a shipping price. I buy heaps of stuff from there now.

I looked at using those fittings but decided to go with -6AN as i prefer the look. I would think it should be ok, only thing is the barb is smoother on those fittings than a regular hose barb. Since the plastic molds to the shape it holds tight, but im not sure how it would go with thicker rubber fuel hose. The other thing is how strong the plastic is when tightening a clamp around.

Hopefully would be ok. I think you will know as soon as you try if it will work.

[PeterAllen]

I wonder if the Non-Newtonian fluid mechanics experts out there can help me out here.

I’m getting close to gluing the body on for the GTO and I’ve spoken to the folks at Sikaflex who recommended 252 elastic adhesive. That’s okay for the gluing but I also need to bog (bondo) across the join of the fibreglass and metal skin on the roof.

I can foresee cracking if the set Sikaflex moves at a different rate to the set body filler – 240Z weren’t designed for 350hp.

Is anyone aware of particularly ‘high flex’ body filler? Thanks.

[renovationinnov]

peter ' when I was extending the cab of a Morris minor ute [ 2 piece \] we added 300mm section & window I tried welding which broke so I sikaflexed the joints then etched it n coated it with epogen [ black/ white halves mixed together turns grey ] & gets hot as you kneed them together but never cracked in the 2 years I had the ute extended
hope this helps
epogen I got from trade link plumbing suppliers
my uncle builds fire trucks & that's what they us to bond & joint the extra cabs together
rob

[PeterAllen]

'epogen'?... spelling? I can't find a reference. Thanks.

[Bill E]

Merritt Marine Supply. Sikaflex 292i Structural Bonding Adhesive White 10 oz. Tube PN# 292I-521

[Rebel1]

I think I'd be looking at products from the Devcon range.
An epoxy adhesive and an epoxy filler/putty.

Some epoxies have ample flex properties to bond body panels and to fill indentations.

available from Blackwoods.

[Zedn]

Maybe talk to a specialist automotive paint supplies shop.

There is a 3m panel bonding product specifically for the task.

Automotive Aftermarkets Filler, Adhesives, Coatings & Sealants:*3M

Hope the link works as I'm on my mobile.

[PeterAllen]

Thanks for the replies, much appreciated.

Some are a little off target so I probably didn’t explain the issue correctly in the first instance. I’m looking at two issues here. First is gluing the fiberglass rear window section to the shell which is achieved by applying Sikaflex in the pattern shown in red and pressing the section to the roof. I'm confident the Sikaflex will do that.

Once that has cured I then need to blend the edge of the fiberglass section (shown in yellow) to the metal roof with bog or ???? Whatever I use it needs to withstand the movement variations between the fibreglass and metal roof the Sikaflex will allow without itself cracking.

Others have tried bolting the fiberglass section to the roof but invariably the fiberglass will crack around the securing fasteners, hence the use of Sikaflex which itself enables cracks to appear in the joins… “There’s a hole in the bucket dear Lisa, dear Lisa…”

[Zedn]

If the movement is going to be that much of a problem, then it will extend to the paint cracking as well. I don't know if there is a definite answer. I can only think your choices are plain bog, fibreglass, filler with glass strands (hair) or something really smooth like a skim putty. All will crack with excessive movement. I guess you just want to keep the sikaflex as thin as possible and make sure it is fully cured before filling to allow for shrinkage. I would probably use the filler with glass strands (kahglass) then skim it with something like dolphin glaze (upol).

Just my opinion. That's what I did for my doors when I did them. Glued skin to frame and filled the edges to the inner panel.

Do some searching on how they install body kits on the jap imports. I think a lot of those are glued then smoothed in with filler.

[PeterAllen]

Just a few updates.

... Blue blue, blue suede seat ... blue blue, blue suede seat ... you can do anything but don't sit on my blue suede seats...

I had planned a tan leather interior but the more I looked at original GTOs the more I warmed to the spartan interior and blue seats. Anyway here they are, navy blue leather and light blue suede. The colours photograph differently depending on the light. I have included a photo of a real GTO interior.

I haven't fitted them as I would have trouble storing the seats so they will probably be just about the last item to be installed.