OZWheels no longer making Halibrand Replica Wheels - Page 3

leroy17 · #41 (**permalink**) 07-14-2011, 04:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aussie Mike

As for the difference between the Harrison and CR front end, they are probably both built with different suspension pickup locations. The CR runs a wider front with a lot of offset on the wheels to reduce the scuff radius.

Someone here may have a picture of a Harrison front wheel.

Cheers

Mike,

Here's my Harrison front and wheels. Front is 17x9 with 245 45 17

Scoob · #42 (**permalink**) 07-14-2011, 04:29 AM

Mine is the VZ front hubs and VE rear . To acheive a change in front offset I did even consider a change to the upper and lower front A arms but did not want to go to that effort in re engineering the front end geometry so it would still work properly. Another idea was to cut and shut the flares on the guards to allow for the expantion of the front track due to the extra width Vintage wheels would require , But the body had already been painted at this time too late. FYI - I had originally made Vintage Wheels my first choice of manufacturer and this was after seeing many different wheels and the feed back from Club Cobra was only ever posative I would still prefer Vintage Wheels if they would fit.

Krait · #43 (**permalink**) 07-14-2011, 08:35 AM

My front wheels are 17 x 8.5 with 5.00 backspacing. Am pretty happy with the way they look.

Cheers

Merv and Sharon · #44 (**permalink**) 07-14-2011, 03:35 PM

245 F and 285 R (both 17s)

Aussie Mike · #45 (**permalink**) 07-14-2011, 03:53 PM

Good looking car there Leroy. Looks like the Harrison has about another inch of dish on the front wheels over the CR. That would probably explain why vintage can do a fitment for them and not the CR.

Cheers

Quote:

Originally Posted by leroy17

Mike,

Here's my Harrison front and wheels. Front is 17x9 with 245 45 17

Mando · #46 (**permalink**) 07-14-2011, 06:51 PM

Leroy, are your wheels 2 piece or 3 piece. Mike's right that extra inch makes all the difference. The colour looks spot on and they sit perfectly.
Krait, are your wheels from Vintage Wheels.

Regards.

Aussie Mike · #47 (**permalink**) 07-14-2011, 07:07 PM

You've got me thinking now...

I could machine up some new stub axles, hubs and caliper mounts and move the wheel flange back in 1".

I could then get 2 new out rim halves spun up 1" wider and hey presto I've got more dish on the front, 9" wide rims and they would still fit under the guards nice.

Cheers

Mando · #48 (**permalink**) 07-14-2011, 07:17 PM

Mike, what is the wheel flange?
Would it be easier to make 2 sets at the same time?

Krait · #49 (**permalink**) 07-14-2011, 08:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mando

Leroy, are your wheels 2 piece or 3 piece. Mike's right that extra inch makes all the difference. The colour looks spot on and they sit perfectly.
Krait, are your wheels from Vintage Wheels.

Regards.

Yep, sure are.

ptrefry · #50 (**permalink**) 07-14-2011, 10:34 PM

Guys here are a few pictures of the car with the Vintage wheels

leroy17 · #51 (**permalink**) 07-14-2011, 10:53 PM

Mando, the wheels are the 3 piece ozwheel ones.

I changed the outer rim for an extra inch of dish and then machined the inner face (12mm) to bring the wheel in a bit but maintain clearance. In general I wanted to change the busy look of the wheel. I have had the centres powder coated in a satin gunmetal grey, the satin finish is to minimise the shine or reflective surfaces on the centre.

The other thing that I did was replace the mounting bolts. These are now a low head high tensile which sit flush with the centre for a smoother look. The bolts have all been treated as a HOT black oxide (not normal black oxide). When I rebuild the wheels I was happy with the end result.

The rears were rebuilt and machined so I could get maximum dish but still have clearance.... its tight but it works. Rear tyres are 285 40.

However I do agree that the 18s and the rim profile look good.

ptrefry · #52 (**permalink**) 07-14-2011, 10:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ptrefry

Guys here are a few pictures of the car with the Vintage wheels

Here are the hubs machined from a billet of aluminum

leroy17 · #53 (**permalink**) 07-14-2011, 11:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ptrefry

Here are the hubs machined from a billet of aluminum

Nice!!!!!

This is how it should look.

Mando · #54 (**permalink**) 07-15-2011, 01:08 AM

Ptrefry, that's just perfect, great work!

Regards.

DaveW · #55 (**permalink**) 07-15-2011, 02:42 AM

Ptrefry,
Is your CR the older chassis, looks like you have FF upper control arms,
What is the offset of your front wheels,
Have you shortened the original hub or is that standard, as the alloy knockoff hub would push the wheel out further, or do you cater for that by machining the wheel mounting face,

looks great

ptrefry · #56 (**permalink**) 07-15-2011, 08:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DaveW

Ptrefry,
Is your CR the older chassis, looks like you have FF upper control arms,
What is the offset of your front wheels,
Have you shortened the original hub or is that standard, as the alloy knockoff hub would push the wheel out further, or do you cater for that by machining the wheel mounting face,

looks great

Hi Dave my chassis is the older style.
The upper arms are FF.
I had to machine up the new hub so that its 35 mm shorter to allow them to fit under the guards.
The Stub axle then needs to be shortened by 35 mm as well.
Its a bit of dicking around ,but i really wanted the knock off centers.
I also had to machine 5 mm of the inside of the wheels to allow for clearance for the calipers.
I would have to re measure the offsets for you .
Vintage wheels have all my measurements for offsets if your interested in getting wheels.
Thanks Paul

DaveW · #57 (**permalink**) 07-16-2011, 04:45 PM

Is there more to consider by shortening both upper and lower control arms than steering rod end length and potential shock mounting changes, does anything else get altered by just moving the whole assembly inboard by an inch or so ?
How are things like "ackerman" angles or bump steer affected. ?
Upper Control Arm - Front, Chop an inch off the Heim joint end of the arms plate the end, shorten the adjuster lock nuts.

Lower Control Arm - Front, Chop the ball joint end and move an inch towards the bushes, leaving all shock positions as is.

any educated thoughts ?

ptrefry · #58 (**permalink**) 07-17-2011, 04:49 PM

Dave i considered going down that road , but found turning new hubs to be a lot easier and then didnt have to worry about bump steering problems.

ptrefry · #59 (**permalink**) 07-17-2011, 04:58 PM

Here are some more pic's for the front wheels on my car.
The wheels fo sit inside the guard when its on the ground.
Thanks Paul

DaveW · #60 (**permalink**) 07-17-2011, 06:07 PM

Paul,
Have you got a pic of the inside of one of your Vintage Wheels, also, if you have, the distance from the mounting face and the "spokes" (i need some caliper space), and the overall spoke thickness, i'e front to back.
Spoke with Vintage Wheels and Team 3, i need to loose 32mm a side to fit the front wheels and maintain the current wheel to guard distance (3/4" + 1/2" for knock off flange).

VZ hubs, taking out 32mm might be a trick, there's only 16mm between mounting and wheel flange.