Beam and Torsion tests in Victoria

[suthol]

Originally Posted by Zedn

The Beaming part is done on the same jig but with the front steal beam locked so it cant rotate. They load up the seat locations and measure the deflection in the chassis by mounting dial gauges at intervals along the chassis.

Below taken from my report, the beaming deflection was 0.31mm.
Not too shabby for 25x25x1.6 mild steel tubing

Objective
To test the ICV Clubman chassis constructed by Dave King in accordance with the prescribed beaming test to determine its structural adequacy.
Methodology
The Methodology set out in the National Code of Practice for Light Vehicle Modification and Construction
has been utilised.
The vehicle’s suspension was made inextensible by replacing the springs and dampers with rigid rods.
The vehicle was then supported on axle stands under the axles.
A set of 10 dial indicators were installed on RHS members clamped to the chassis five each side
between the axles.
The following table shows the longitudinal and transverse positions of the gauges.
Position
Longitudinal
Position Separation
F -70 700
1 785 1150
2 1340 1270
3 2145 1270
R 2380 1500
Table 1 Gauge Positions
All gauges were read and the measurements recorded.
The vehicle was then loaded with a total of 272 Kg applied at the seating positions.
Each gauge was read and the results recorded.
The load was removed and the results again recorded to determine if any plastic deformation had resulted from the loading.

[stumpeater]

All is explained! Thanks for that guys, no wonder the engineers charge so much, it is rather complex to set up and test.

[stumpeater]

To those Victorians with rego on the horizon, good news. Vicroads accepted the revised beam and torsion test report. The engineer re-submitted it last week and my VIN number arrived today. The only problem now is where to stamp the number! Any suggestions? Also does any Tool Hire place rent out the 8mm stamps, I can get a set on Ebay for $90 but I'm only building one car (at the moment) so I'd rather hire some. I've got a set of 5mm that have hardly been used and don't need more.

[gjkrv8]

Originally Posted by stumpeater

To those Victorians with rego on the horizon, good news. Vicroads accepted the revised beam and torsion test report. The engineer re-submitted it last week and my VIN number arrived today. The only problem now is where to stamp the number! Any suggestions? Also does any Tool Hire place rent out the 8mm stamps, I can get a set on Ebay for $90 but I'm only building one car (at the moment) so I'd rather hire some. I've got a set of 5mm that have hardly been used and don't need more.

I've got a set if you need some. Been used on two Cobra's now.

I got them at Just Tools in Sth Melb if you are keen to get your own.

Rgds

Gregg

Send me a PM and we can arrange to get them to you.

[stephen low]

I too have a set you can borrow, not sure where you live but I'm down Mordialloc way to give you a guide.

Mine have done more trailers than Cobras now!

Well done.

Steve

[sambo]

Originally Posted by stumpeater

To those Victorians with rego on the horizon, good news. Vicroads accepted the revised beam and torsion test report. The engineer re-submitted it last week and my VIN number arrived today.

Great news Peter, thanks for sharing the info (and for the PM). Good luck with the rest of the process, what little remains.

[stumpeater]

Thanks Gregg and Steve, I may just take up one of your offers, I am in Boronia (outer East) . The other question is where to put the number on a Harrison. When I've tried to stamp thin stuff in the past sometimes they bounce more than indent.

[07cob]

Peter

I stamped mine onto a plate then welded it onto the sloping chassis rail that comes from the top of the passenger's footwell. That was OK in QLD (satisfies the *cannot be removed* requirement) but I cannot be sure if it would be acceptable elsewhere.

Geof

[gjkrv8]

Peter, I am in Croydon Hills so not far from you.

Regarding where - I actually stamped mine onto the round X braces on the front of my CR in the engine bay. This was the hardest thing to do. i.e. Striking a punch/stamp really hard whilst lying on top of the mud guard and trying not to hit my thumb in the process.

My backup plan was stamping a plate and welding it on - I was told by my engineer that was acceptable. Basincally so long as it cant be removed easily.

Rgds Gregg

[sevenohms]

Originally Posted by Zedn

The beaming and torsion test is described in VSB14. If you call a test facility and ask for a price on the test it will be a lot. I was quoted $1800 for the test to be done before i found out the manufacturer has already done it. If they wont accept the test from the manufacturer, make your own jig, buy/borrow some gauges and pay your engineer to observe you doing the test. Contact Suthol on here, he has done it on his scratch built clubby chassis.

It would be logical that they should accept a declaration from your manufacturer that your chassis is identical to the one tested.

Due to the constructor of my chassis I'm in the process of completing my jig at the moment. It's pretty easy to make, easy to do at home. But I'm finding it harder than I thought to pass!