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08-25-2011, 03:04 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Palm Beach,
QLD
Cobra Make, Engine: Harrisons # 62 302 T5
Posts: 474
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Not Ranked
Warren
What does your *preparation for starting* process entail? My block has been dripping oil for about 6 weeks (so far and a few to go yet) so all the oil galleries will be effectively empty. The heads and valve train are all new. Plenty of oil and assembly lube used but I am wondering how to fully oil the engine before starting.
Geof
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Original? Must be. It's the only one I've ever built.
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08-25-2011, 04:07 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Canberra,
ACT
Cobra Make, Engine: G-Force Cobra '68 302, T-5, Jag 3.77 LSD.
Posts: 993
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Not Ranked
Geof
You can pre prime by removing the dizzy and with a long hex drive and either a drill or speed brace, wind the pump 'till you pump oil through the engine. Cant remember which direction to rotate, but obviously the same direction as your dizzy spins, or
disconnect your coil and crank the engine untill you have oil pressure, then crank another 5 to 10 seconds should be enough to refill galleries and get oil to your mains.
Reconnect coil and start. Cam break in is another procedure, not sure if it is still done these days.
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SLIPRY
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08-25-2011, 05:09 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Alice Springs, central Australia,
NT
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic revival kit (CR3181), gen III engine, T56 6 speed box, AU XR8 lsd diff
Posts: 5,699
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Not Ranked
Remove the filter and fill it with oil (then refit it) just before your going to do either of these.
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Cruising in 5th
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Never be afraid to do something new, Remember, Amateurs built the Ark: Professionals built the Titanic.
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08-25-2011, 06:15 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 1,106
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Hodgson
Geof
You can pre prime by removing the dizzy and with a long hex drive and either a drill or speed brace, wind the pump 'till you pump oil through the engine. Cant remember which direction to rotate, but obviously the same direction as your dizzy spins, or
disconnect your coil and crank the engine untill you have oil pressure, then crank another 5 to 10 seconds should be enough to refill galleries and get oil to your mains.
Reconnect coil and start. Cam break in is another procedure, not sure if it is still done these days. |
Get an old distributor, remove the cam drive gear, insert distributor in the hole, attach drill to the rod that pokes out at the top and turn it anti clockwise for 15 to 20 seconds, turn the engine 1/4 turn then repeat a couple of more times. Engine will now be full of oil and you havent even run it yet. Good way to get oil everywhere before that first important startup. |
08-25-2011, 06:21 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Paradise Point,
Qld
Cobra Make, Engine: Absolute Pace
Posts: 1,205
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Not Ranked
All good,
Geof, I have the tool if you cannot find an old distributor, I can post it to you if you cannot get one locally.
I would then change the oil and filter after a few hours of running.
Phil
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Not all driveways reach the street!
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08-25-2011, 07:33 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Palm Beach,
QLD
Cobra Make, Engine: Harrisons # 62 302 T5
Posts: 474
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Not Ranked
Great info blokes! Thanks very much.
Very generous offer, Phil. Thanks. I will see what I can come up with here and will let you know.
Geof
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Original? Must be. It's the only one I've ever built.
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08-26-2011, 04:22 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Sunshine Coast Qld,
QLD
Cobra Make, Engine: Harrison # 80; Ford 5.0L HO Trickflow heads, cam and rockers and MassFlow EFI
Posts: 3,482
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Not Ranked
Ford Small Blocks - Engine Blocks
That is a great 'site Warren. Their tech info ("Dart University") has some great stuff.
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Merv
Ford Cobra
Harrison #80.
Peregian Beach
Sunshine Coast Qld.
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08-26-2011, 04:48 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Newcastle, Warners Bay,
NSW
Cobra Make, Engine: RMC . 393 Dart alloy block Stroked 351 alloy heads ..all the goodies plus a pre oiler. al
Posts: 1,495
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Not Ranked
Wazza, This might be a dumb question. But what were the symptoms when you "broke the block" on the track ???
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08-26-2011, 12:56 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: May 2003
Location: Kentucky,
Ky
Cobra Make, Engine: Superformance MK III 428CJ
Posts: 72
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Not Ranked
What about the Boss block from Ford?
How does it stack up to the dart block?
marvin
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marvin
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08-26-2011, 04:09 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Gold Coast Queensland,
QLD
Cobra Make, Engine: Harrison#97 LS7 / T56
Posts: 1,683
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob. Smith
Wazza, This might be a dumb question. But what were the symptoms when you "broke the block" on the track ???
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There weren't any !!!!!....
Smooth strong revving....then a " shudder" through the car....and the engine stopped like I'd hit the "kill" switch....( or...as I have it marked on the
dash " Sh*t " switch !
The block actually "pops" apart....it's certainly not a gradual thing that's for sure
Late evening last night....new engine fired up and sounds really strong...
I recon that the thicker engine block seems to muffle any sounds coming from the engine bay...and the sound coming out of the pipes sounds way stronger....
Back to it now.....
some running in bits and pieces to be attended to....
Dyno early next week ( Running in, and a final tune )
....ready for the A series sprints...Racing next Friday.
Would LOVE it to be the last major drama for a while....really over it!
Cheers,
Warren. |
08-26-2011, 04:11 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Gold Coast Queensland,
QLD
Cobra Make, Engine: Harrison#97 LS7 / T56
Posts: 1,683
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by Marvin
What about the Boss block from Ford?
How does it stack up to the dart block?
marvin
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Sorry Marvin....more than I know...someone else might have the answer.
Cheers,
Warren. |
08-28-2011, 06:30 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Gold Coast Queensland,
QLD
Cobra Make, Engine: Harrison#97 LS7 / T56
Posts: 1,683
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Not Ranked
HUGE thanks to Scotty Hampson, ( Ozvenom)....for putting the engine together last week, and for all of the extra effort in finding and fixing a whole pile of little things that needed to be done.
Much appreciated.......champion bloke !
Now let me kick your ar** at the Nationals......Deal ??!
Cheers,
Warren
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08-28-2011, 09:22 AM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Jan 1999
Location: MARKSVILLE,LA.,,
Posts: 3,235
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wazza
Sorry Marvin....more than I know...someone else might have the answer.
Cheers,
Warren.
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Strength wise,probably the same. The Dart block is a true Windsor block beefed up in the needed places, the Ford BOSS block is a combo of the old Cleveland block and Windsor block...
With a Dart block, you use all the "standard" Windsor things like head/intake gaskets, head bolts/studs and such.
With the Ford BOSS block, you must use a specail head gasket ($$$$) you have to order a right and left side, same with head bolts/studs.......if your using Windsor heads, you must drill steam holes in your heads to match that of the BOSS block....
The only thing I like on the BOSS block over the Dart block is the screw-in freeze plugs and screw-in,o-ringed oil galley plugs...
I have a BOSS block, but if I had to do it over again, Dart all the way...
BTW: Unless you own a NASCAR or NHRA team, don't bother calling the Ford tech line and asking them something about the blocks/engines......
BTW 2: My BOSS block leaked oil out the rear main seal from day one, tried 4 seals,3 different brands, same thing, once the oil warmed up to about 120 degrees,it started leaking....
Called Ford,had to crate the bare block up and ship it to them in Michigan,they checked it out and said nothing was wrong,sent it back, I re-assembled the engine, same story...had a machinest check the block, the rear of the block where the rear main seal fits was machined .050 out!!!!!!!!!!!!! Ford says it's fine!!!!!!!!!!!!
David
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DAVID GAGNARD
Last edited by DAVID GAGNARD; 08-28-2011 at 09:25 AM..
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08-28-2011, 10:38 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: May 2003
Location: Kentucky,
Ky
Cobra Make, Engine: Superformance MK III 428CJ
Posts: 72
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Not Ranked
Thanks for he info.
marvin
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marvin
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08-28-2011, 10:16 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 1,106
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Not Ranked
My engine is in and running also! time for a few late night 2 hour drives to get her all bedded in.... then off to the dyno thurs arvo to finalise the tune then off racing this weekend... just in the nick of time..
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08-29-2011, 02:33 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Sunshine Coast Qld,
QLD
Cobra Make, Engine: Harrison # 80; Ford 5.0L HO Trickflow heads, cam and rockers and MassFlow EFI
Posts: 3,482
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Not Ranked
Looks really great! All that blue ....
__________________
Merv
Ford Cobra
Harrison #80.
Peregian Beach
Sunshine Coast Qld.
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08-29-2011, 03:11 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Warwick,
Qld
Cobra Make, Engine: DRB, FORD 302W,T5
Posts: 487
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Not Ranked
My money is on the blue motor  red has something to with chev. tch, tch. |
08-29-2011, 04:38 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Gold Coast Queensland,
QLD
Cobra Make, Engine: Harrison#97 LS7 / T56
Posts: 1,683
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrs flatchat
My money is on the blue motor red has something to with chev. tch, tch. |
It's Red and black....you know...the same colour as the car......
It's NOT Chebby orange !
I've tried Blue engines, Black engines...and they broke....so Red will do me this time .
See you on the weekend.
I hear a Hay Bale attacked you at Leyburn....Poor bugger ! |
08-29-2011, 05:22 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Cheltenham,
Vic
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic Revival CR3516, LS3, Aussie Mike'd T-56, 3.70 LSD, AP brakes, Penske shocks
Posts: 1,616
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by DAVID GAGNARD
My BOSS block leaked oil out the rear main seal from day one......the rear of the block where the rear main seal fits was machined .050 out!!!!!!!!!!!!! Ford says it's fine!!!!!!!!!!!!
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they're factory specs for a Ford aren't they
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Ben in AU
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08-29-2011, 05:28 AM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Jan 1999
Location: MARKSVILLE,LA.,,
Posts: 3,235
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by Modena
they're factory specs for a Ford aren't they |
I guess so.....funny thing is I've been using the older Ford blocks all my life. The ones with the old style 2 piece rear main seal and soo far,have not had one leak a drop of oil and one engine I built back in the mid 90's is still running strong and to date has not missed a beat,nor leaked a drop of anything..........
Newer is not always better........
David
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DAVID GAGNARD
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