Harrison brakes

[stiffy]

SAMBO,


Good to hear the brakes have worked out.

I was going to say you should keep with the standard set up as I have had no issues with the rears, using better pads naturally and it keeps it standard for engineering.

When are you taking the next step in the rego saga?


STIFFY

[Merv and Sharon]

Good stuff Paul. I am still deciding which calipers to use on the front. Warwick new set up looks good and so do the AP Racing 5200's.

[sambo]

Originally Posted by stiffy

I was going to say you should keep with the standard set up as I have had no issues with the rears, using better pads naturally and it keeps it standard for engineering.

When are you taking the next step in the rego saga?

Stiffy, you're on the money. Keeping it "Harrison" spec means less questions to answer for engineering. Planning to go for full rego early next year.

Merv, sounds like you're looking at some pretty serious track work with that setup?

[Merv and Sharon]

Not so sure Paul. I want the best road brakes I can find. I am not happy with the design or function of the Holden ones at present. Lots of winding mountain roads around here to test them on.

[sambo]

What front pads and fluid are you using Merv? Properly bedded in?

[Merv and Sharon]

I have asked the guys at Race Brakes which pads they recommend with AP fronts. I would go with their advice, based on their experience with Krait's car. Warwick's kit comes with pads but I guess they would be changeable, dependent on need in use. The rears have the refurbished Nissans and a pad from the Project Mu range (Project Mu ) altho' Pedders have virtually the same softer pad.

[sambo]

Sorry Merv, I meant with the current setup. Big difference between Holden pads with cheap fluid versus a performance pad with racing spec fluid. Don't get me wrong, any excuse for an upgrade but I'm curious to know what you're basing everything on with regards to poor braking performance on the road.

[Merv and Sharon]

OK - the Commodore pads design, I find a pain. They have a rattly disk retainer that always seems to rub on the rotor after re-fitting, the pads can't be removed without removing the caliper and despite constant bleeding and checking of the caliper sliding arms, there seems to be a variable imbalance between R and L on full on braking. And last, the rotors don't fit on the hub firmly, requiring a round shim to ensure that they are centred. Just too many variables. I have a good quality, non synthetic fluid.

Thus. the whole set up as I received it seemed not worth the effort of working on Paul. To improve the pads, and retain the design/system weaknesses, seemed not what I wanted to do.

[sambo]

Fair enough Merv. How did the "variable imbalance between R and L" manifest itself - hopefully not by pulling to one side?

Do the AP brakes go straight onto VS hubs?

[Merv and Sharon]

Some pulling on a full 'panic' stop, but not always in same direction. (Same road, even tyres, etc.). The AP brakes would come with AP rotors (one or two piece) that fit tightly on the existing hub and have a bracket included for attachment. Warwick's have the same cohesive package.



PS Tried Mando's approach to posting pics and it IS easier...

[stiffy]

Sambo/Merv,

I changed the std Holden front brakes with Wilwood calipers ( thanks Snaken ) and Wilwood race/road pads from Summit. I swapped front and rear with slotted and dimpled rotors.

Marty made the billet adaptor and ALL IS GOOD. They feel much firmer and less fade. I am running 15" rims so this limits the caliper/rotor size. The Daytona has fully enclosed front wheel arches that restrict brake cooling, along with the tight 15's.
Running 17/18/19" rims you can bolt on any number of aftermarket Holden options.

As someone said before, the tires will restrict the car not the brakes for our 3 or 4 lap sprints.

STIFFY

[Merv and Sharon]

All done. Fitted AP 5200s on the front and they go on so easily. Pads can be removed in seconds, unlike the Holden ones I had. Also the rotors now center perfectly. Much lighter too than the Holden set up. Nice pedal feel and, even though I am still bedding them in, great stopping force. I used one of those vacuum bleeding set ups on the compressor and it seemed useful.

[07cob]

Merv

They look the part! How significant is the increase in braking and is your locking issue sorted?

Geof

[Merv and Sharon]

Time will tell Geof after the bed in process. So far they are very smooth.

[Krait]

Hi Merv,

Glad it worked out for you.

Cheers

[Towmaster]

They look good Merv. Are we gunna see you at the track some time soon?

[Merv and Sharon]

Not sure Ash - I have been watching you guys lately and the builds and re-builds ...

I did see a helmet recently, however,

[Rog246]

Merv as a matter of interest, did you change your wheel stud pattern (PCD) to match the rear or just left them the same i.e. Commodore ?

[Merv and Sharon]

Mine are all Ford pattern Rog. I had the Rotors from AC drilled accordingly. The new brakes are better in feel and responsiveness. (However, if you need my old ones you are most welcome to them).

[DaveW]

Hi Merv,
i just got a set of AP 5147 for the rear of mine, in the mounting instructions it shows the bleeder nipple at the top and the crossover pipe on the bottom. the calipers where labelled as LHT (Left hand trailling) and RHT.
There are 2 different sized pistons on the 5200's, 38.1mm for the leading piston and 41.275 for the trailing, if the calipers are upside down, the pistons will be arse about.
I have a PDF spec sheet for the 5200's if you need it.
Are your calipers on the wrong side (upside down).
Dave