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Kirkham Motorsports

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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 09-16-2011, 06:01 AM
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merv i'm a chippy
the diagram you have is a good draft [ but kiss rule]always is the best as most of the time. i have found
your radial arch is what you need for clearance &compression of the strut
k ] should be the compressed travel of the strut
so i'll get the strut fitter to drawup something
rob
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 09-16-2011, 05:08 PM
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Default My 2 Bobs worth.

Simple and it works! Hard to see here but its a piece of aluminium angle between the rear bolts on the hinge the strut pushes and holds no worries, don't know where I got the strut from but it looks like a pulsar one I had lying around. Length was just right. Go to the wreckers when you work out what length, and there is a smorgasbord to choose from.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 09-16-2011, 10:44 PM
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Default struts work great

Quote:
Originally Posted by Merv and Sharon View Post
Thanks OZ. I think I saw something in a photo a couple of years ago like that ... not sure where.
I run a strut on each side with a 3 inch bracket under the fender and a smaller one on the hood side, same goes for the trunk, I must say they work so good, and easy to install.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 09-18-2011, 10:46 PM
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Did the measuring and calculations today and went and got a strut and fitted it up and all seems fine. It tucks under inconspicuously and holds the bonnet well. It does not have to lift the bonnet, but after about 2/3 travel, it takes over. Any pressure is on the hinge not the 'glass. One seemed enough so far. Will keep the chrome strut there for any fallback in high wind.

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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 09-18-2011, 11:09 PM
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Looks good Merv.
But I would probably fit it other way around, so the seal is not keeping oil in, but instead keeping dust out.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 09-18-2011, 11:56 PM
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Merv,
Looks like a nice simple installation.

I would reinforce the hinge now that you have drilled a hole in it, in time I am sure the hinge will crack at that point.

Tek screws are my pet hate, they are only good for fences.

It is also a good idea to have the strut "overcenter" so it is not costantly trying to open the bonnet.


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Last edited by Philm; 09-18-2011 at 11:58 PM.. Reason: added last line.
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Old 09-19-2011, 02:08 AM
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Thanks Dave and Phil. I will reverse the strut direction. That hinge is thick metal and there is very little strain on it, even with the strut. There is not a lot of pressure on it when closed. I was planning on having a small curved retainer welded on to it to attach the strut to in a week or so. My welding is functional, but not neat!
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 09-19-2011, 08:41 PM
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Mounting non gas charged shock absorbers with the seal up is a good practice but I wouldn't worry too much about which way up you mount gas struts. They are gas charged and if the seals aren't going to hold up to gravity then they definitely won't hold to the gas pressure.

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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 09-19-2011, 09:00 PM
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Your probably right Mike, I just thought they may have a little lubricating oil in them (also thought the gas seal would be different to the shaft seal), I have never looked at an exploded view of a gas strut
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Old 09-19-2011, 09:47 PM
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Yep they do have a little oil in them to lube the piston and seals. The more I think on it I reckon having it mounted the way Merv has done is probably best as it'll keep the seals from drying out.
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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 09-19-2011, 11:32 PM
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Thanks again. I got under the car and looked at where the strut was positioned when the bonnet is closed and it is a bit off centre and seems not to be trying to push the bonnet up. I will make up a small 'tab' to have welded along the curve of the hinge to take the threaded screw/ball at the top.
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 09-20-2011, 06:25 AM
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merv
don't turn your strut ;it's aready mounted the correct way up
how large is the tab & is your hinge arm cast or a steel tube
how did you find where to drillyour pivot point
rob
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 09-20-2011, 02:19 PM
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Rob, the hinge arm is a steel tube but very thick metal. I drilled and tapped in a stainless ball with a threaded body. I am still playing around with the location one the tab. On positioning, I had 'attached' the bottom of strut to the lower chassis rail and then from under the car on the hoist I moved the arm through its arc at the hinge to try to establish a point where it seemed balanced and gave enough force to hold the bonnet up, without pushing it up. I used a small G clamp to try different positions.

The various figures (above) helped but basically some experimentation.
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 09-23-2011, 05:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Merv and Sharon View Post
Did the measuring and calculations today and went and got a strut and fitted it up and all seems fine. It tucks under inconspicuously and holds the bonnet well. It does not have to lift the bonnet, but after about 2/3 travel, it takes over. Any pressure is on the hinge not the 'glass. One seemed enough so far. Will keep the chrome strut there for any fallback in high wind.

Merv what length strut did you use ?
Rog
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 09-23-2011, 05:18 AM
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42 cm Rog. I have since welded up the bolt hole and fitted a small bracket to the hinge to take the ball for the top fitting of the strut.
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