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Kirkham Motorsports

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  #161 (permalink)  
Old 06-04-2014, 03:18 AM
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Default ... And air

Quote:
Originally Posted by stephen low View Post
Getting back to the basics of engine operation I know getting it started comes down to three basic items, have I - fuel, compression and spark.
Slowly

Don't forget air. Obstructions in the intake can cause havoc. Found this when I first started my engine.

Geof
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  #162 (permalink)  
Old 06-04-2014, 06:49 AM
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So you have fuel, you have air, compression and the plugs all work...

Hmmm, just thinking out aloud, that this wouldn't be the first time a ****ty computer caused havoc on an EFI build... Maybe move the focus enery there?

Sorry I'm no expert...
Best of luck mate.
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  #163 (permalink)  
Old 06-04-2014, 07:05 AM
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Just got back from the club meeting and the issue most likely seems to match Modena's picture that I too found trolling the forums.

A quick check in the shed and yep my lead layout is based on the opposite numbering system on the coil packs.

Not sure this qualifies as truly being 180 degrees out but clearly if the spark is being sent to the wrong cylinders at incorrect times it was never going to work.

Curious why the motor hasn't been bucking and backfiring much though if the lead layout is so grossly wrong.

Here's hoping that in the morning I get a nice surprise!!

Ciao
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  #164 (permalink)  
Old 06-04-2014, 08:34 PM
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Thumbs up Car Porn - woo hoo - it's alive!!

Many thanks to all that made suggestions - useful and otherwise.

A happy day this morning in Slowy's shed.

With a bit or spark plug lead re-correction to match the diagram Modena posted earlier, a recheck of various settings and a crossing of fingers - I achieved the outcome in the link below!!

Have video so it did happen - lol

New Engine First Start 5 June 2014 Video by slowy59 | Photobucket

So no issues with the rebuilt motor at all and it sounds sweet thanks to Wellco.

It was just the shift of the coil pack location, a six year hiatus and Slowy incorrectly plugging into the alternate set of cylinder numbers on the coil packs.

Another major stage achieved.

Now I can move on to other bits of this rebuild as a happy chappy.

Cheers gang

Steve
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  #165 (permalink)  
Old 06-04-2014, 08:50 PM
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Well done and good work with the process of elimination.

Bet your still smiling now.
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  #166 (permalink)  
Old 06-04-2014, 08:54 PM
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Awesome news Slowy. sounds pretty mean too. Cheers Gregg
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  #167 (permalink)  
Old 06-04-2014, 10:07 PM
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Default Motor is alive

Slowly,

Great result, it must have been very frustrating waiting all this time

to restart the donk, at least you know what the issue was (YOU) .

I did tell you to call RACV...................

Another quality WELCO engine rebuild saves the day.

Just because you have made great progress does not mean that I

am going to stop calling you SLOWLY..........., I will stop when you paint it


STIFFY
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  #168 (permalink)  
Old 06-04-2014, 10:15 PM
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Good job slowy, and Ben and all other advice givers!
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  #169 (permalink)  
Old 06-04-2014, 10:23 PM
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yay!
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  #170 (permalink)  
Old 06-04-2014, 11:13 PM
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Awesome!!!
Congrats.
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  #171 (permalink)  
Old 06-05-2014, 12:49 AM
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Thanks guys and yes I am still smiling.

So now I am chasing pointers for a few items that I need to replace or source.

I noted that I had strange gauge outputs for the oil pressure and oil temperature at both just ignition on and during running.

Was confident I had pressure from when I manually drove the oil pump to pre-lube the system and more recently just turning over on starter to confirm oil flow without the filter in place. But clearly I need both gauges functioning.

The photo below shows the sender combo as in place. Is there are neater arrangement out on the market, any sort of combined sender would be excellent to do away with some of the crap brass fittings in use.



Then I've also mentioned the water pump which has seen its seals dry out through extended non-use. Have been told to just find a standard replacement pump. This wont be a big HP engine so I don't need a high flow pump version.

What suggestions are there for a good quality replacement?



And finally my relocated coil packs mean I've got unrully spark plug lead spagheti I need to manage.





Thinking both of lead holders and perhaps getting custom leads made up to ensure a neat fit.

The photos show the driver's side mess and the passenger side is no better. Loose and potentially likely to contact the headers so I need to do something.

Suggestions guys please.

Cheers

Slo
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  #172 (permalink)  
Old 06-05-2014, 02:28 AM
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Slowy,

Regarding your Oil Pressure sender - as it is a single wire sender your sender needs to have a good earth - I notice you have a lots of thread tape - just check you have zero ohms resistance from your oil pressure sender outside can etc to the engine block etc. Quick test to see if that is the problem would be to grab a bit of wire and by hand connect it between the eng block and sender outside metal etc and fire up engine and see if that is better?

Regarding your Oil Temp sender - similar thing about earthing but also I notice it is on the "end of a stick" and not "inline with oil flow going past it". Might not give you "timely" temp readings.

Cheers

Gregg
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  #173 (permalink)  
Old 06-05-2014, 06:16 AM
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Thanks GG

Made me think I certainly didn't re-install these, so the additional tape will be more than I used first time.

Not sure where else I can screw in these fittings but seeing as they are done I'm not looking really to relocate.

Though they could be separated with the pressure on the block and temp via the remote oil flow lines that can just be seen in the shot. If I can find an in-line fitting into which I can screw the temp sensor that's worth some consideration.

If this were possible I assume it will be better to screw into the oil line leaving the block rather than the return (cooled) flow?

But I'll give the faux earth a try first though as a simple fix.

Cheers

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  #174 (permalink)  
Old 06-05-2014, 04:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stephen low View Post
...
Suggestions guys please...
I made these up for the GTO purely to copy the Ferrari layout but they seem neat and practical for any application.
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  #175 (permalink)  
Old 06-05-2014, 10:07 PM
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Thanks for that suggestion, certainly does neaten it up.

Have immediatly made a quantum leap to use of carbon tube perhaps as a prettier vision. Not so sure about heat in that case though.

Will need to think on this one some more.

Ta for the idea though.
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  #176 (permalink)  
Old 06-05-2014, 10:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stephen low View Post
...perhaps as a prettier vision. ...
... than Italian design and Ferrari craftsmanship?

What's-a matter you Hey! Gotta no respect


.
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  #177 (permalink)  
Old 06-05-2014, 11:47 PM
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What about these theyre quite cool I had them on my Windsor in the Harrison.



http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/z/2ZUAAOxyJX9SKUwc/$(KGrHqQOKpMFIJ5L)JV2BSKUwcTFbQ~~60_35.JPG


Either off ebay or your closest hot rod shop.

or these


http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/ODAwWDExMDA=/z/mR4AAOxy039TLP7c/$_35.JPG
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  #178 (permalink)  
Old 06-06-2014, 01:24 AM
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Thanks Mr Damage, the first option had been my first thought.

If that second lead clamp style could be positively fixed in place I might use them.

And PA no respect at all so shut-uppa ya face - lol

Anyone seen any other sort of lead holders out there?
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  #179 (permalink)  
Old 06-07-2014, 05:20 AM
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Glad to hear the beast running Slowy...Great job.
With your plug leads you might be able to use the tube idea but run them along the block below your headers to give a cleaner look. You would have to make a custom length set though.
Sinkers.
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  #180 (permalink)  
Old 06-07-2014, 06:39 PM
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Slowly if I remember correctly you had little studs on your rocker covers the clamps go onto those and hold everything all neat and tidy.
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