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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 02-28-2013, 04:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Zedn View Post
Mike, where does the hose go that is coming out of the top of the welded on neck?
That's on the outside of the pressure cap and runs to the recovery/overflow tank in the middle of the cross member. The line runs to the bottom of the tank and it's cap is vented to atmosphere. Any coolant that pressure cap releases will run to the overflow but will be drawn back in when the engine cools again. It's an old system.

For track days (even with the header old tank) you should have a catch bottle on the overflow.

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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 02-28-2013, 04:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Zedn View Post
Original plan was to install one of these inline fillers Moroso Radiator Hose Fillers 63745 - SummitRacing.com near the upper hose on water pump to allow it to fill without air getting trapped (or would it still be trapped in heads?). I was then going to just run the overflow to a recovery tank. Only problem is the steam pipe would be higher. Do you think it would work to just tap the steam pipe into the inline filler? Not sure if the air/steam would push through into the system or get stuck at the top of the pipe.
That'll probably work fine. All you really need that steam tube to do is burp the air out of the motor when you fill the system, Most motors never had them and you had to mess around filling and topping up the system to be sure you got all the air out.

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Old 02-28-2013, 01:44 PM
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Hey Zedn, I am not sure if this is what your looking at. Its a CSR in line filler neck, I drilled and tapped for the steam line to come in under the cap and then there is an overflow (above the cap seal) that runs to the tank. It connects at the top of the tank which has an internal pipe to the bottom to work as a recovery.

When filling up you can see the coolant running out through the steam line (and with the volume that was coming out I am sure there is no air trapped in there), once all full I have topped up once and it works no worries.

Inline Radiator Hose Filler - 1.5 to 1.5 Inches - Cooling Products - CSR


Last edited by leroy17; 02-28-2013 at 01:47 PM..
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 02-28-2013, 05:57 PM
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Thanks Leroy,

That is the exact set up i had planned. From the reading i have done the CSR has better feedback that than the others also.

Cheers,
Liam
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Old 02-28-2013, 09:10 PM
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Thanks Leroy,

That is the exact set up i had planned. From the reading i have done the CSR has better feedback that than the others also.

Cheers,
Liam
No worries. The finish is very good... actually I would be happy if all the alloy bits under the hood were finished that well.

I also have billet mounts and AN fittings to replace the current steam vent set up.... just a matter of connecting but will wait till clockwise water pump is fitted..... no more additional pulleys and can shorten the vent line.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 02-28-2013, 09:38 PM
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A lot of kit cars out there have just not got it right.
There are some very sound ideas and good schematics on this site. Mainly LS orientated..........but it explains cooling pretty well. Muz

Pirate4x4.Com - The largest off roading and 4x4 website in the world.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 03-01-2013, 12:48 AM
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Originally Posted by leroy17 View Post
No worries. The finish is very good... actually I would be happy if all the alloy bits under the hood were finished that well.

I also have billet mounts and AN fittings to replace the current steam vent set up.... just a matter of connecting but will wait till clockwise water pump is fitted..... no more additional pulleys and can shorten the vent line.
What size hoses did you use to connect to the water pump. When i measure them they dont seem to match the available filler sizes or my radiator.

Any pics of how you guys mounted the alternator? Thats my next challenge given the limited space. Actually considering a revers mount from the front.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 03-01-2013, 12:53 AM
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Originally Posted by muzzza View Post
A lot of kit cars out there have just not got it right.
There are some very sound ideas and good schematics on this site. Mainly LS orientated..........but it explains cooling pretty well. Muz

Pirate4x4.Com - The largest off roading and 4x4 website in the world.
Thanks for that, looks like some really good information in that article. Will read it later when i have time.

cheers.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 03-01-2013, 01:00 AM
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Are you going with a stock olternator or a donor from another car?

I picked up a small alternator from a Jap car wrecker. Plenty of room to mount it down low next to the block.

I'm running mine off the 4 rib AC belt position on the balancer. The alternator bolts direct to the block with an extra brace on the pivot bolt to hold it in double shear.



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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 03-01-2013, 01:23 AM
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I havnt bought the alternator yet. I have been looking at measurements on some of the chrome items on offer. Was going to make a up a card board mock up and see what size will fit before buying.

Not very clear, but you can sort of see the issue in this pic.


I originally wanted to put it high on the passenger side so that the belt could wrap over the tensioner and under the water pump. I think I will have to put another idler on up high on the passenger side and mount it below like you have. The tensioner i have on there now is manually adjustable CBM-10712 LS1 LS2 LS3 billet belt tensioner manual Camaro GTO NEW f body LS6 LS7 | eBay its a nice bit of kit and means i dont need to have an adjustable bracket for the alternator.
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Old 03-01-2013, 02:59 AM
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What size hoses did you use to connect to the water pump. When i measure them they dont seem to match the available filler sizes or my radiator.
it was a special order hose from samco, same price as a normal hose but it's not the one in the pic. Its a 90 degree reducer inch and half to whatever the od is on the water pump pipe ( can't remember but I have it somewhere). The water pump side hose was also 100mm longer to cover the complete water pump pipe.

Got all my hoses from WRS on the gold coast, great guys and reliable service.
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