CR3171 Finally going back together!

[deano59]

Originally Posted by guye

Mike, I'd be interested in borrowing your nifty alignment tool for the quick jack holes. I elected not to get my holes drilled at the factory, because I can get the car registered easily without bumpers. But not quick jacks. And I'm not 100% sure what I'll put on yet. But the holes, especially at the front as you mentioned, will be a bit tricky at the surface is uneven.

i had the holes drilled in mine as i remember doing them in my last cobra and almost ended up half a hole out even after measuring a few times before drilling them thru so i elected to have them done up at the factory . anyone with a pace close to you that has the holes cut you can make a cardboard template from ?
cheers dean

[leroy17]

Great update and über cool fabrication work as usual.

That belt alignment tool is just awesome.

For what's its worth, my old car has a squeaking belt and I knew it was an allingnment issue. I remover the belt and used builders string line Around the belt path and sighted this by eye. The idler pulley was out 1.5mm. So I changed the spacer behind the pulley and it all lined up, squeak gone.

[guye]

Hardly too stupid! I like the idea!

[Serpnt]

Mike and Spookypt,

I have the same issue with my DSC ie. 1 rib cut off the 6 rib belt. Now I have run the car at a few Nationals and Shelbyfests and have not had an issue - YET. I contacted the aircon company who imports the pumps and they advised that the pump does not come with a 6 rib pulley, only 5 and I cannot see how the pulley can be removed. If you come up with a way of removing it and fabricating a 6 rib pulley or finding one that suits, I am in

[spookypt]

Originally Posted by Serpnt

Mike and Spookypt,

I have the same issue with my DSC ie. 1 rib cut off the 6 rib belt. Now I have run the car at a few Nationals and Shelbyfests and have not had an issue - YET. I contacted the aircon company who imports the pumps and they advised that the pump does not come with a 6 rib pulley, only 5 and I cannot see how the pulley can be removed. If you come up with a way of removing it and fabricating a 6 rib pulley or finding one that suits, I am in

Im going to remedy this issue. It's the only thing I dislike about my DSC. Once I work out what's the best way to remedy I'll let u know and you can do the same. Once I get my other projects sorted this job is next on my list.

[Serpnt]

Look forward to the resolution and as an fyi, last Saturday I caught up with the owner of the ex Tim Hendy DSC which has a 7 litre monster in it. We went for a blast in mine and then his and what a difference those cubes make. Suffice to say I came away drooling and now that the TH car is painted, it looks as good as it goes.

[Aussie Mike]

Not a lot of interesting progress to report. Been busy with work and jobs around the house.

Had a big rearrange in the workshop. I've paneled the other side wall and moved all the shelving from the rear of the shed to the side. During the moving I'f tried to throw out a lot of old junk that I'll probably never use. Still more junk to go. I've also put up more fluro lighting on that side of the shed and wired in a permanent power point for the hoist so I don't need to run a lead out every time.

On the Cobra I've been trying to get panels to fit correctly and the boot lid has needed some work. I fitted up the bonnet the other day only to discover the nice PS reservoir and it's mount are in the wrong spot. I miscalculated and the bracing on the underside of the bonnet hits on the top of the reservoir Grrr. So the reservoir is moving to the end of the foot box and I've had to redo some of the plumbing.

While I was looking in the engine bay I decided to sort out a few other jobs (Ones that are a lot more fun than bloody fiberglass and bodywork)

I had added a filler neck and pressure cap setup on the old water pump. It let me get rid of the header tank and gave a good spot to purge any air out of the system. Unfortunately when I had originally done it I had a pin hole in one of the welds and chases it all over trying to fix it. I decided to cut the neck off and start again. The new one turned out much neater and I'm a bit more confident of the weld. It may look a little ugly as I went over it a couple of times to hopefully ensure no pinholes. I'll grind the weld down and blend the area so it'll kind of look factory.



While I was messing with the water pump I decided it was about time to make the new pulley for it. The old original one I'd made doesn't match the smooth style PS pump pulley.

Here's the original setup



So here's the beginnings of a new water pump pulley. It starts as a 6" diameter billet of aluminum. Somewhere inside it there is a pulley. I've just got to machine away the aluminium to find it.



I cleaned the swarf tray on the lathe before I started as it'll be interesting to see how much material is removed (I'm figuring more than half of this block will end up in the tray.

Cheers

[leroy17]

As always Mike, just freakin awesome.

However, in the interest of say......... simplicity........ could the PS pulley just not had a few holes drilled in it to match the WP pulley.

Never mind, I understand re-doing things that may not need to be re-done in the first place.

[Modena]

Let's see pics of the shed!

[Aussie Mike]

I'll have to update the shed thread Ben

I thought about just drilling the PS pulley and I may yet but one of the things I don't like about the original water pump pulley is that the water pump snout sticks through the center of it. Kind of looked half finished to me. I also messed up my measurements on the ring of holes in that the 4 bolts that retain the pulley should have been in line with the other holes. Looks OK but always annoys me when I look at it.

Cheers

[Aussie Mike]

A couple of satisfying hours on the Lathe. The internal dimensions of the pulley are all done. There's a few steps in there and a radius in the corner of one of the steps. Plenty of material removed.



A test fit on the water pump confirms the dimensions. It's a perfect snug fit. No bolts required to hold it in place.



Now to grind up a tool and cut the V grooves for the serpentine belt.

Cheers

[Aussie Mike]

Finished the water pump pulley today. Pleased with how it turned out.

Here's the pulley after machining the v grooves for the serpentine belt. I've flipped it the other way in the chuck and machined the front in the same conical style as the PS pump. I had to put a bit more angle on it though to remove a bit more material. But I think it still looks OK beside the PS pump.



After finishing the lathe work I gave it a bit of a polish. Then on to the mill to machine the bolt holes. The rotary table makes easy work of this type of job.



Here it is all bolted up. Everything fit perfectly and belt alignment is spot on. Got to remove it and polish it properly and then make up a belt tensioner setup.



So what do you reckon? Do they look too plain? Should I machine a circle of holes or kidney bean shapes or spokes in both of them?

Cheers

[LoBelly]

I think they look fine

but.... How about machining them to look like mini Halibrands - that would look pretty groovy.

Little Three eared spinners will keep you sharp while doing a tune up

LB

[cobrakiwi]

Very nice work, and great skills.
Keep the pictures coming.

[Aussie Mike]

Originally Posted by LoBelly

I think they look fine

but.... How about machining them to look like mini Halibrands - that would look pretty groovy.

Little Three eared spinners will keep you sharp while doing a tune up

LB

That's one of the reasons I made them smooth in the first place. The thought of accidentally getting snagged while working on the motor was in the back of my mind.

Cheers

[Gav]

I think your pulleys look like Madonnas Tits.

[deano59]

they look good anytime you want to machine up some bling for my L 98 ls let me know

[Wazza]

Originally Posted by Gav

I think your pulleys look like Madonnas Tits.

Gav.... I think you've had one too many Pulleys..but I see it too

[renovationinnov]

LOVE YOUR WORK
I'm in for a set too!!

[Aussie Mike]

Another fun machining and fabricating job.

I made a bit of a stuff up when I set up my power steering reservoir. The top of it hit on the underside of the hood when I fitted it. The reservoir has been relocated to the end of the foot box but that left the bracket on the chassis. I didn't want to cut it off as the chassis has been powder coated so decided to find another use for it. OK I'll mount the coolant catch can there.

I looked at my original catch can. I was proud of it at the time I made it (you can see it in one of the pics above mounted of the front X member) but my skills have improved since then. I cut the top off the original and machined the the neck out so I could re-use it. I had some 100mm billet so I machined a new top and bottom out of it. This time the ends of the cap have a bit more shape and style than the flat discs originally used.

Here's a pic of the new end cap and neck welded in place on a section of 100mm tube.



Here's the bottom cap pressed in place ready to weld.



Machined up a mounting bracket that bolts to the old PS reservoir lug.



Here it is from the side. I can weld aluminium OK but I don't get those perfect stack of dimes results like the pros do. There's some wavering around where I re-position the part or myself. I've linished off the weld on the bottom end cap and I'll polish the whole thing. I'm thinking I'll linish off the top weld too but I'm in two minds. My thought is with both welds linished and the whole thing polished it'll look like it's hewn out of one solid piece. What do you reckon? Keep the weld or smooth it?



Cheers