FFR Coupe 65 in Sydney

[SydneyChris]

Am chasing, without much success some U channel.. nominally 12-14mm, equal leg in around 1mm wall to form the window frames. Is available in Al without drama on the north side of town (sydney), but not in steel.

Look forward to any leads.

With thanks

Chris

[Aussie Mike]

Could you use some RHS and cut one side off it. I think you can buy RHS as small as 12mm or 16mm (1/2" or 5/8")

Cheers

[SydneyChris]

thanks Mike.. could just cut along the inside of the vertical face to maintain the side wall height..

Is there a machining process where it could be effectively slotted by a cutter with a traveling bed, rather than cut it all by hand and risk an inconsistent edge..?

[SydneyChris]

First pass at power windows.

With the side intrusion rail it was always going to take a bit of a fiddle as it limits the glass travel at the front of the frame.

Have lowered the door strike by around 50mm for the powered door locks from a Holden Commodore (with thanks Ben), need to add the brace in the wheel well once the windows are sorted.

Re worked the hinges to allow the plate to be secure to the outer side of the top door frame rail.

Still have a few mm to play with to improve lowered glass position, may even cut the frame at the A pillar and weld it back on at a slight angle to get that last 1" of vertical travel required.

Wishing I was just a little more competent.. and patient.. all things in good time apparently...

Cheers

Chris

[Aussie Mike]

Keep going. you'll get there. I'm a fan of trying different ideas. The working out and tinkering is a big part of the fun for me.

[SydneyChris]

Cheers Mike.. ended up getting some 35 x 20 x 1.6 RHS.. split it with the grinder then smoothed the edges to make the channel. If you have nothing to do for the next 27 weeks there is plenty of fiddling to be done here. !

[SydneyChris]

Mk II... can get about as much travel I need.. just about to the sill level (within 1/2").

Increased the distance between the door frame and the window runner from 13 to around 27mm.. it creates the issue with the angle of the window frame now converging on the glass at the A pillar.

Thinking of cutting the fibreglass and moving the A pillar return section slightly inboard... or..?????

[Aussie Mike]

If you made the side glass from poly carbonate instead of glass you could heat it and put a curve in it for a better fit.

Cheers

[Gav]

I admire your dedication to having roll up windows Chris!
Nothing worthwhile is ever easy.

[SydneyChris]

Originally Posted by Aussie Mike

If you made the side glass from poly carbonate instead of glass you could heat it and put a curve in it for a better fit.

Cheers

Hi Mike.. is poly carbonate legal for street use..? A curve would solve a bunch of issues.. can it be done accurately.. not seen the process.

Chris

PS... thanks Gav.. has been the story of the whole build.. second time around would look into rebodying a Pace chassis..

[PeterAllen]

Chris. I had the rear screen for the GTO moulded at this place. Just used a glass rear window from a 240Z as the mould. It was a compound curve but if you only require a curve in one direction you can do it yourself with a hotair gun.

B & M Plastics | Creative Plastic Fabricator | Sydney, NSW

[spookypt]

Chris I have Perspex slide side and opening rear window. Doesn't help as to whether its legal I know?

[albanycobra]

The GT40s get licensed with Plastic side windows so i dont think its a problem.

[ICCARS]

I believe the only reason the GT40's get away with plastic side windows is because they are permanently affixed to the door, whereas a sliding side window should be E-Dot compliant or laminated, so you may need to look for something similar to the curve you require and see if you can get the window trimmed to size (this can be done even with a laminated glass side window) but may be expensive..

[SydneyChris]

thanks gents.. will check in with the engineer and see where to go.. can get 95% of the travel required.. so its not a bad solution.. just not seamless in the application.

To get the door frame and A pillar parallel, I was thinking of slitting down the front of the A pillar fiberglass... taking a very elongated triangle section out of the face to move the return edge inboard and also slit it half way at the base, then patch it up.

Will enable the finish to look consistent and I can grab another 5 - 10 mm and get the glass to door frame clearance required.. will need to fit and fasten the body before I go much further though.

[PeterAllen]

Chris. I don't know how your car is built but I wouldn't be touching the 'A' pillars, they may contain structural reinforcing rods, etc. I'd just play with modifying the door/window frame.

[SydneyChris]

Only the glass skin Peter... there is a substantial gap to the roll cage...

[SydneyChris]

Video uploaded to YouTube of the windows working in part at least.. narration by a grumpy old guy with a sore back and the last remnants of a winter flu... https://youtu.be/S6CjNeMwN4I

Having got that far, will build a new door frame (or two) without all the patches and reworks..

Cheers

Chris

[Cobrakiller]

Hi Chris, does your coupe use door weather seals? Make sure that your new hinges have lots of adjustment, fore, aft, up, down.When you get round to fitting the door skin and the door lock mechanism, you will need it.

[ICCARS]

Originally Posted by SydneyChris

Video uploaded to YouTube of the windows working in part at least.. narration by a grumpy old guy with a sore back and the last remnants of a winter flu... https://youtu.be/S6CjNeMwN4I

Having got that far, will build a new door frame (or two) without all the patches and reworks..

Cheers

Chris

Well done mate, I like the video showing the operation of the window blank and with some nice guides and glass in place it should work sweet.