FFR Coupe 65 in Sydney

[Gav]

That's the plan

[Bender]

Hi Chris. I saw a nice 8 butterfly cross ram tube intake set up to suit LS engine at a swap meet on the Gold Coast. New $1200. Thought of your car.
With the current manifold you have and with a bit of work and the turkey pan style airfilter.Connect a stainless 180 degree pipe to the throttle body and direct back over the engine into the turkey pan. Flat panel filter in pan, raised at the front and low a the back. Maybe you could cut a vent grill panel just under windscreen between the wipers. Similar to the MK 1 Ford Escort etc. Connect the back edge of the turkey pan to that. The early Supercar airboxes had like a door seal on the top edge of the sides of the pan used the bonnet as the top to seal out the hot under bonnet air.
Hope that all makes sense to you. lol
Bender

[SydneyChris]

hi Bender... time and money permitting sounds awesome... Either a blower or an 8 stack is the go for sure.. I reckon the later looks just awesome. $1200 is half or less retail.. a nice pick up for someone for sure.

Had the car at the sparkie and then the tuner which took 10 weeks overall for them to complete... has put my build a long way behind schedule for this years Nats unfortunately.

Had cut a hole in the back of the bonnet bulge to feed Mk1 of the induction system, but then patched it. Have the car back now, am looking at all of the options to see which way would work out best with the current intake.

Cheers

Chris

[Bender]

Hi Chris, Yeah the intake I thought was a good buy. If it had been for a windsor. I would have been less $1200. lol. It was still there at the end of the day so it might pop up at the next swap meet.
I have seen chat on some other forums where the guys rotate the intake manifold on the LS engines. Front to back. There is one forum called lamboclone that has a bit of chit chat about it.
Not sure how much room you have at the back of the engine. May fit in with what you are trying to do or open up some new ideas.
Bender

[SydneyChris]

Thanks Bender... I have valves, wiring and heating tubes and have built out the firewall to create space inside the cabin (moved the AC evap ahead of the windscreen line, so its not really an option just at the moment...

[SydneyChris]

Has been a while, but now the site seems to have been upgraded will give posting a go.

Doors, with commodore locks fitted with template perspex panels and working power windows, skins fitted, just waiting on the door belt line seals to progress these further. Central locking also installed, with a remote and external keyed door locks.

Induction system done, paint for the cheek brackets (VHT) is curing, waiting on some more 4mm x 8mm mesh to finish the hood opening.

Front wheel arches trimmed and coated with bed liner, hood fitted, hood rollers fab'd and installed, front grille completed and ready for fit post paint.

Electrics completed and ready for plug in of a few internal lights once the trim is done. Dyno tuned with the Crow Cam fitted.. around 315kw at the rears.. which is in line with expectations, at a slightly higher red line given the valve and timing gear upgrades.

Need to knock off the heat shielding on the underside of the cabin then fix the fuel lines, dynamat the seat portion of the cabin and figure out how to seal the gap between the 1/4 windows and the door frames, which has been created due to the geometry required for the power windows. Most of the cabin sheet metal has been cut and folded, just needs to be fitted.

Aside from that it still feels like its a bit of a way to go.. have a trimmer lined up for early next year which will no doubt take it through to March before it returns.. then its body and paint... although I really don't think I have the eye, the tools or the skills to prep, let alone finish a rather irregular body properly.

[SydneyChris]

Also made up a splitter with foam board, glassed and trimmed, ready for high fill and a rub down.

[SydneyChris]

Installed a set of QA1 double adjustable shocks, front and rear. Inverted the front pair, needed to relocate the lower bracket for the rears from under the A arm as pictured. Managed to maintain the original spring length all round with just a little grinding of the upper bracket weld on the NS.

[spookypt]

You'll need that front splitter to work Chris!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Znp3b9XdxdI

[SydneyChris]

hey Spooky..

Its prepared and ready to go..

Got a lot of stuff fitted and ready for assembly now.. doors, locks, hood locks, vents, hood rollers, induction ductwork.. bought a few storage boxes last week to keep it all together in sets. Have the balance of the interior sheetmetal to complete and then its off to trim..

[SydneyChris]

Induction plenum fitted after making some perforated base studs from stainless bolts. Will dial it in a bit then finish it with bed liner to fit in with the rest of the hood.. .

[SydneyChris]

Door skins fitted.. need to figure out how to do the internal trim now, with so much of the fiberglass removed.

Intake plenum coated with bed liner, will let it set and fit later in the week. Pontoon covers trimmed post these pics but not fixed, hood latches fitted up and removed until post paint.

Have some ABS sheet to make up a rear wheel well liner as opposed to what are known as the 'elephants ears' that would tuck in behind the rear wheel arches as stone guards.

Cheers

Chris

[SydneyChris]

Wheel well liners cut and fitted using 1/8" ABS sheet with a hair cell finish. Painful job without a hoist, up and down over and over to get the templates then the parts fitted and then fixed.

[e-clip]

Hi Chris

The car is looking Awesome your hard work is paying off.

Can I ask where you got the wheel well ABS plastic from?

Cheers
Michael

[SydneyChris]

hi Michael,

Australian Sheet Traders... Fairfield in SYD.

[SydneyChris]

Happy New Year to all.

Fairly quite here on the Coupe front with Christmas holidays, kids and a fairly tender lower back just at the moment.

Wrestling with how to make an inner door skin which included a 90 degree curve to get over the window regulator motor at the top and then a predominately flat panel section to the base of the door.

Have fiddled with corflute (open cell plastic sheeting), I dont have the tools to make a decent radius in AL, and was concerned at the additional weight of a steel panel, even in a sub 1mm gauge in what is already a heavily reinforced door frame (side impact), with glass and a regulator.


Look forward to any available thoughts or examples.

Cheers

Chris

[PeterAllen]

Chris. Without a sketch I'm struggling to imagine exactly what you want. As a general comment, is a feasible to make it from multiple elements and have a fabricator weld it together. You can leave it as is, if the weld is pretty enough, or hand finish to create a flush appearance.

There are plenty of shops who will do small jobs like that for a few dollars.

[Bender]

Hi Chris. I noticed in one of your posts that you said you turned your QA1 shocks upside down. It depends on the shock design inside if they will work upside down or not. I recently worked on a Corvette with QA1 shocks in it. If the shocks were laying on their side they didn't work.
I would remove the spring and sit the shock upside down for a few minutes.
Then stroke the shock in and out to see if there is any resistance.
I have worked in the competition shock industry for a few years. I could tell you about floating pistons, through shaft shocks and gas spring etc but that would only confuse the matter.
I hope this info helps you have a great result with your build.
Best regards
Bender

[SydneyChris]

hi Bender... the ones I have are gas filled.. orientation has no impact..

[Bender]

ok Chris. sounds great.
Yeah the ones the Corvette had on must have been the cheaper spec.
Looks like you are moving forward in leaps and bounds.
You will definitely have a big grin on your face when you get it on the road.
All the best
Bender