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Evans waterless coolant
Is anyone running Evans waterless coolant? I've been reading up a bit, sounds like it might be worth a try, no water so no corrosion and no electrolysis, boils at 190C, you can run a 7lb cap which releases strain on hoses etc, and apparently works better than regular options particularly inside the heads.
I can't seem to find any bad reports about it, other than nay-sayers who haven't actually tried it. It also lasts forever (20 years), the only downside appears to be cost, $90 for 4 litres so a full system is over $250. If you are flushing an existing coolant you need their water absorber product too which would add more cost. My system is obviously new and dry so I would only need the waterless coolant. Is anyone running this? |
I've followed at least two previous threads on this topic Ben in the last year or so. Check these out:
http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/aust...erless+coolant http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/all-...erless+coolant |
I have been using Evans for at least 12 years or better, (I'm to old to remember) I don't leave home without it. Here is an older post on the subject.
http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/all-...s-coolant.html |
Hi Ben, I've had the Evans coolant in my car for a while now and have not had any problems at all. I run a 7lb cap and no thermostat.
Regards. |
The Evans stuff seems more suited to racing applications, particularly in Australia where I found it hard to come by. They also have a specific water pump to suit an LS motor, but I couldn't get one in OZ was gunna have to get one from the States.
From what I gathered it seems like it was just a different type of 'coolant'. In my opinion, unless you are doing endurance type racing in your Cobra then I don't think the extra expense would be worth it. I have raced my Cobra quite a bit over the past 7 years and never had a problem with it ever getting hot. Yes I subscribe to the Keep it simple philosophy.... Just my 2c worth. |
Bit of a heart breaker if you pop off a hose which is almost compulsory on those first test drives. :)
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As a general observation aligned I think with other sentiments already expressed, if you're operating in an environment that deems the coolant's use as valueable, you are happy to pay way above the odds for the fluid, you are happy to be potentially incapacitated if you need to top up fluid and don't have sufficient or need to top up after any service and you think you will have so much life out of the engine that you do want to prevent against corrosion over the next 20 years. Go for it!
Personally it seems a good idea but not worth pursuing for normal operating use. My 2.5c worth Cheers |
I am running Evans in my 482 KC Sideoiler a few years now.
Runs engine much cooler than with water, my fan comes on at 220ºF with no drama, since Evans boils at a much higher temp than water. Hot spots or gas bubbles inside the engine do not happen any more, and you will hardly ever see hoses getting hard because of the gas pressure building up inside the cooling circuit. Gets sometimes over 100ºF hot here in summer, and in heavy traffic engine can get really hot. With Evans I can idle the engine for hours in very hot weather, temp will stay steady at 205ºF. I can only recommend Evan Waterless Coolant. Fill once and forget. No need to top up since no pressure will push any coolant out of the overflow. Just keep some for adding coolant if you have a leak. When I do take engine out, I just collect the Evans coolant ,and put it back in when finished. |
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I stopped using it after I was told by my mechanic that in the event of a blown head gasket, or other events that allows coolant into the crankcase, Evans can fry the bearings quickly.
Worth checking out, if you run an FE. |
coolant on the bearings...
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Rog, I really can't tell you why.
I don't have a thermostat housing and never included one in my setup. The car warms up really quickly and never rises above normal temperature. Regards. |
Well this has brought on some great responses, hopefully some more people will chime in with their experiences.
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I do run a thermostat with Evans. It is one with a larger opening than normal . The Evans stuff is rather soupy and a bigger central hole helps.. Using no thermostat will delay the warming up, especially in colder regions. No problem down south with warmer weather.
I have had some friends older cars, like Jaguar XK140, with overheating problems, which makes the cooling fluid to overflow and cause a big mess and alarm. With Evans temp runs up and over the water boiling point temp but nothing happens, just keeps son running. Remember that the temp at the head/block junction is far over boiling point of water. All you need there is for the heat to be drawn away, and that is done better by Evans at 220ºF than by water at 205ºF with some air bubbles going with it. Air and gas expand with heat, which is what causes stress on the cooling hoses and spilling over of cooling fluid. |
Just cross referencing another forum here
Coolant Upgrade - FerrariChat.com which contains the following assertion: Quote:
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I've never found the need. A 50/50 mix of ethylene glycol and water has a boiling point of 265° F at 15 PSI. I feel as long as my cooling system can hold that pressure I'm not going to have any problems.
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If you run your car for 20 minutes or more, release the pressure, you'll find that for the rest of the day no more pressure will build up, unless you have insufficient cooling system, or the ambient temp is high. I ran my Territory in 43oC the other day, and removed the cap. no pressure. I have a heavy duty radiator.
Another note, if you run no thermostat, the water flow can be to fast for the radiator to actually cool down the coolant. And in winter, the engine will run to cold to be efficient. JD |
Thermostat = Good
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