10 yrs old CR Bulid need help please

[e-clip]

Hi Guys
Is it possible to achieve this look with the CR kit ?

[Donunder]

Anything's possible; that's the beauty of these cars. All it takes is a plan time money knowledge ability determination patience encouragement from partner and friends and did I mention time and money?

Your concept car looks trim and tidy but I'd lose the BFGs and lay the roll hoop back a smidge. Others may have their own opinions and this is where you have to be clear in your own mind as to how you want your finished car to look.

Good luck with your project Michael and it was good to have you along at the breakfast yesterday.

[gjkrv8]

As Don said anything is possible, but the CR's aren't known for having much "dish" in the Front and Rear wheels.

Check out Boxhead's gallery - Dave has put on some Billboards on with 15" wheels and it looks fantastic.

cheers

Gregg

[Aussie Mike]

Yep CR's don't have much dish on the wheels. It's something Ian improved on with the round tube chassis.

That being said it's possible to modify for more rear dish but it's a lot of work.

Some years ago I designed and built jigs to make new rear arms in different lengths. A couple of people have used them now. Paul Trefry has built an amazing looking traditional styled Cobra after making new rear arms. I'll see if I can find a pic.

Here's the new rear end


Here's a before and after shot of the rear dish on mine. (Look out, It's Ben Hurr)




And here's the after with about 2" more dish



I would probably advise against this as you will end up like me and be forever modifying and changing things and never bloody driving the thing.

Phil Mizzi has achieved a great traditional look with 15" rims on the Orphan without narrowing the rear end. It needs some careful work with getting the right wheel offsets.



Cheers

[e-clip]

This is sad news mike, I was hoping for the look as above on the silver cobra

[e-clip]

Sorry double post

[leroy17]

Everything is do-able, for the right amount of work, time, knowledge and knowhow....... opps... also forgot $$$.

The fact that you are getting stuck back into this is a step in the right direction.

How about posting a pile of photos and then others can suggest what things can be attended to. Then the snowball effect happens, once you start something, it leads to somthing else.

Anyway, welcome, good to speak with you briefly yesterday and regular updates will keep you motivated. Especially working in a shed on the really cold 13degree Queensland nights.

[Aussie Mike]

13 Degrees??!!! Bloody luxury. It's about 6 degrees at night in the shed. Makes it hard to get motivated.

Leroy is right on the snowball effect. I'm a victim of this as one mod leads to another and another. Try to avoid this. Have a plan from the start of what you want to achieve and try to stick to it.

Set yourself goals. Get a whiteboard and write up a to-do list and mark things off as you go. It's good for the motivation seeing jobs crossed off and breaking the whole thing up into smaller tasks makes it seem a lot less overwhelming. Finally use the community on here. The support you will get with ideas, parts and supplier sources and encouragement is invaluable. Plus you will likely make some new friends out of it which is a real bonus.

Cheers

[e-clip]

Sorry for all the stupid qestions but here are some pics of the rear its an Falcon AU. Any advise will be greatly appreciated. I'm sure I want to narrow the rear so I can fit the 15" wheels with decent dish. 1st major job

[Gav]

It's pretty easy really, all you do is pull out the things that hold the wheel where it is and make shorter one off, non engineered parts to replace them.
Hypothetically speaking of course, it is something you would want to be doing after engineering.

[e-clip]

Mike was there a reason why you didnt make the rear narrower?

[Aussie Mike]

There are some geometry advantages to having longer suspension arms in the less extreme arcs they move in compared to the shorter arms.

A variety of factors influenced my decision to on rear end width. I was concerned about the geometry when going shorter since I didn't want to change the mounts on the chassis. I didn't want to have to source custom axles (although I have the ability to make my own now) and I had found some GM axles that had a suitable length. I had also changed the Ford diff to a stronger GM one.

I thought narrowing the whole rear by 4" (2" per side) was enough to give me the look I was after. I'm happy with the result.

Cheers

[Aussie Mike]

Gav is right. Leave it till after Engineering. Or at least talk to your engineer and find out what he will need to approve the mods. You will have enough hoops to jump through without adding the extra one of custom fabricated suspension components.

Cheers

[750hp]

I'm intrigued by the fuel system inside your rear wheel arch.

Is the top black hose the return line from the fuel rail?
Does it then flow to the regulator and T into the inlet of the fuel filter?
From there, does the filter flow straight to the engine?

If so to all of the above, I'd be concerned about the regulator getting pounded by stones and debris, and I'd worry about the fuel not making it back to the tank to dissipate some heat across the larger volume of fuel.
I'm also not sure of the benefit/detriment of having the regulator so far away from the engine.

Yay, another build thread is starting!!!!!!!!!

[guye]

My regulator is in the rear too, Craig. I'm interested about your concern also. Are you worried the pressure is going to significantly drop over the distance to the engine?

And yay also - love more build threads!

[Aussie Mike]

That's pretty much what the GM/LS factory setup is. The pump, regulator, filter and return are all located back at the tank. Just a single line running forwards.

I figured I'd do something similar with mine but on steroids i.e single 1/2" line running forward and Bosch 044 pump. I reckon I'll loose out on a bit of fuel cooling but I think my tank is about 80L+ and with no exhaust system anywhere near it so it'll take some heating up. Plenty of airflow around the aluminum hard line running forward and probably only the heat soak to the injector rails to worry about.

e-clip, like Craig says, that reg is in a vulnerable spot. Might pay to make some sort of protective shield to go over it.

Cheers

[Modena]

my setup is also in the wheel well, I made some guards from folded aluminium to stop the rocks.

[e-clip]

Spoken to George May at Racecraft in kunda pk sunny coast qld and he is recommends changing out the rear end for a cut and narrowed jag irs rear.

[Rebel1]

Originally Posted by Aussie Mike

That's pretty much what the GM/LS factory setup is. The pump, regulator, filter and return are all located back at the tank. Just a single line running forwards. Cheers

Here is the combined filter regulator used for the early corvettes as Mike has described.:
LS Fuel Filter Regulator

I've actually seen a very warm LSX powered sedan running two standard MPA's in the tank and two of the above filter regulators each feeding one bank of 4 cylinders.

Bit weird but the owner claims it was reliable and kept the fuel up to some 700 HP.

[Towmaster]

Originally Posted by Rebel1

Here is the combined filter regulator used for the early corvettes as Mike has described.:
LS Fuel Filter Regulator

I've actually seen a very warm LSX powered sedan running two standard MPA's in the tank and two of the above filter regulators each feeding one bank of 4 cylinders.

Bit weird but the owner claims it was reliable and kept the fuel up to some 700 HP.

Commodores all run the regulator in the fuel tank...... Mine is in the boot, only one -8AN line runs to the engine, good for 500+ rear wheel. It is, however, not in the wheel arch.