SS safety tie wire gauge

[stephen low]

Guys

Is there an optimal gauge of SS safety tie wire to use on the wheel spinners on the knock off rims.

Or what gauge of wire is being used?

Rather have this simple question answered than suffer loss of a spinner on the road.

Cheers

[kyleb]

Slowy
I use either .025 or .032 (thou) stainless lock wire depending on what I have handy at the time.
Commonly used for aircraft.
http://aeroparts.com.au/ocart/index....&product_id=51
Cheers

[Ron61]

I use the .032 and I think you can get even heavier but that has always worked well for me. I also go around and check all of the spinners after every drive.

Ron

[stephen low]

Thanks guys that helps.

Have seen both gauges but will go the slightly heavier.

Have acquired a set of Bob's Vintage knock off rims and note he is also supplying safety pins that go into the end of the knock off shaft.

Realise this measure is way too late in terms of proper rim retention but I guess it does retain the spinner ultimately.

This stops the spinner become a projectile on the open road if the worst was to unfold.

Cheers and thanks

[spdbrake]

I use Stainless .41" on the wheels .32" inconel (because of the temp) on the the header bolts. I also use model airplane fuel hose as an anti-chafe around the wheel webs where the wire wraps.
Please don't listen to the "leave the safety wire slightly loose so you can see if the spinner is moving" advise.
IMO its an excuse for having applied crappy safeties and defeats the purpose for safe-ting in the 1st place.

.20 & .25" are typ used on electrical cannon plugs, and sometimes on small hardware (#10 and smaller) on Fuel Controls, Hyd manifolds, etc..

[super]

I use Bob's 0.41 stainless steel lock wire

look here: Stainless steel lock wire : Vintage Wheels, Mustang, Hot Rod and Muscle Car

I also recommend a small tube covering the wire to protect your rims.

And, not to forget, I add a small loop into the wire to see if something happens with the spinners (the small loop stays round as long as everything is OK, when the loop deforms you know there is something wrong because the wire was strechted, if the wire becomes loose you will also notice this by moving the wire directly to its sides).

This picture can explain it better than my poor English...
http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/memb...ty-wiring.html


Cheers
Werner

[Ron61]

OK, you made me think and I have replaced the .032 wire with the .041. I also used the small clear fish tank air hose to cover the wire and it works great and doesn't show up when you are driving. I got my .041 wire and the twister pliers from the same place that Super got his.

Ron

[Lenni-65]

and what helps...

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-4795-Safe.../dp/B00BVL80LI

[twobjshelbys]

I used .032 wire and pliers I got at Harbor Freight. Don't bother spending lots of money for the stuff you'll use only a couple of times you own the car. The HF tool was just as good as the one we used on the farm.

https://www.harborfreight.com/catalo...ty+wire+pliers

Get the 9" one (I can't link directly) In fact, looks the same as the amazon one.

You'll also need a lead hammer. American Hammer has links on this site. Get the 6 lb version. They will recast the head. You should get at least 6 uses (all wheels) out of it.

[super]

additional short remark to the amazon-link regarding the twister pliers:

I would prefer the tool offered by Bob Lacey, because it’s made completely out of steel.

Look:
Pliers for locking wire : Vintage Wheels, Mustang, Hot Rod and Muscle Car

The pliers offered by amazon have a plastic end-piece (I speak about the chromed part of the twister pliers which has to be pulled to twist the tool).

I have got both tools and what I received from amazon looks really like Chinese rubbish …

And Stephen, as you are obviously already in contact with Bob Lacey, order not only the rims from him but also the tools, the safety wire and all the other stuff which is needed for the knock-off wheels. Bob know what he does and he also knows quite well what you will need… and don’t forget to order anti seize (something like 765-1674 NAPA Anti Seize Lubricant PTX80078), Bob can also provide this, even if he doesn’t offer this directly in his web-shop.

I’ve got the FIA wheels for my little car also from Bob – and his support was perfect, without any doubts!

Werner

[kyleb]

Using the correct style and weight lead hammer is paramount first and foremost...I found out the hard way.
The lock wire is just a Backup therefore using .032, .041 or whatever is just a secondary safety measure.
I have been involved in aviation for many years and if you break .032 lockwire that has been fitted correctly then nothing was gonna stop that thing removing itself..
Just my opinion of course

[guye]

Agreed Kyle. 0.032 for me.

And I use some clear or appropriately coloured "heat shrink tube" (un-shrunk of-course) to protect the wheel finish.

[Mark IV]

Originally Posted by guye

Agreed Kyle. 0.032 for me.

And I use some clear or appropriately coloured "heat shrink tube" (un-shrunk of-course) to protect the wheel finish.

We use small 1/8" model aircraft fuel hose, it is clear and very flexible/soft so fit the spokes very well. At .08 per foot it is also very cheap!

[twobjshelbys]

Originally Posted by guye

And I use some clear or appropriately coloured "heat shrink tube" (un-shrunk of-course) to protect the wheel finish.

My wheels were painted yellow so I bought a small spool 24ga stranded yellow wire and stripped the insulation off.

[stephen low]

Thanks again guys.

Bought the lead hammer and spinner tool from Bob.

Used an aircraft supply mob for the 0.032" Malin branded SS wire and had the heads up about some form of plastic sleeve protector but the model aircraft fuel hose is another good idea.

Hadn't thought about anti sieze lube. Is that just for the knock off thread or does a dab go on the spinner rear face / rim inter-face as the two parts make contact when tightened?

I guess the other question is when do you stop belting the spinner with the lead hammer, i.e. how do you gauge spinner tighteness?

All newbie 101 questions I guess but I'd rather ask than suffer a wheel dismount - DoH!!

[kyleb]

Hey Slowy
A little on the face and thread of the spinner to stop galling.
When you are hitting the spinner with the lead hammer you will hear a distinct change in the sound.
Be careful when hitting as it’s easy to glance off and ping the rim.
Watch the ends of the lockwire cos they are damn sharp and will puncture like a needle to the bone..
after twisting I roll the ends back so you don’t catch on it.
Cheers

[Gav]

I bought my hammer from the Healy factory and my pliers and wire came from Revolution Racegear.
A bit of anti seize will stop things from binding or corroding together.
When you are tightening things up there will be a noticeable change in tone when the nut takes up and is tight, in other words it will sound different when you hit it and it's tight.

[stephen low]

Thanks guys the sort of stuff I need to know.

What is the anti-sieze suggested then.

Seems I'm filling up my toolbox now with other "extras" - ha

[twobjshelbys]

Originally Posted by stephen low

Hadn't thought about anti sieze lube. Is that just for the knock off thread or does a dab go on the spinner rear face / rim inter-face as the two parts make contact when tightened?

It's most important on the flat surface of the spinner where it meets the wheel rim. (it's not straight horizontal, just rest the spinner on the wheel and you'll see what we mean).

PS. The anti-sieze is extremely gooey and stains everything it comes in contact with and its viscosity makes it hard to clean up when it squishes out. A very little goes a long way.

I guess the other question is when do you stop belting the spinner with the lead hammer, i.e. how do you gauge spinner tighteness?

All newbie 101 questions I guess but I'd rather ask than suffer a wheel dismount - DoH!!

Whack the spinner with the hammer until you hear the tone of the whack change. It will become higher pitched when it tightens and then stop changing. That's when you stop whacking And while loosening may require superhuman whacks, tightening should be done firmly but not too hard until you hear the tone change. After you drive it for a while whack it again to check.

Many here will say the safety wire isn't necessary if the hub is properly tightened but I think they look cool

I also disagree with the earlier statement about leaving a little slack and using a change in the slack to gauge if it is slipping. Really, the wire is not intended to be a primary connector since at speed even the wire could fail.

[super]

you could also watch this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X8kCWG3d1Cc

and by the way, as you said you are a newbie...

To work with the lead hammer looks easy, but keep im mind, when you do not hit the spinner, the result could be to hit the rim - especialliy when you will untighten the spinner.

That's why I machined a little tool to torque and untorque the spinners.

look:
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/s...8/ppuser/53959
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/s...0/ppuser/53959

A guy from this forum offers now something similar:
PhotoPost Classifieds - Knock off spinner socket - Powered by PhotoPost Classifieds

I usually torque the spinner with 220 - 260 ft lb (approx. 300 – 350 Nm), which works fine (opening torque will then be higher, up to 450Nm is typical).

regarding the anti seize: you can also try "Weicon ASW HighTech"
https://www.contorion.de/chemisch-te...171105074312:s
This anti seize is white and works also fine.

Werner