SS safety tie wire gauge

[DanEC]

Originally Posted by Ron61

To loosen mine I use a spinner removal tool that works great and saves beating on the ears with the lead hammer. It fits over one ear and hooks to the wheel and then you use a 3/4 wrench to tighten it. If it is to hard when you get it tight whack the spinner with a hammer to break it loose and them finish with the removal tool.

Ron

Can you post a picture of it Ron?

[Gav]

I bought my hammer from the Healy factory and my pliers and wire came from Revolution Racegear.
A bit of anti seize will stop things from binding or corroding together.
When you are tightening things up there will be a noticeable change in tone when the nut takes up and is tight, in other words it will sound different when you hit it and it's tight.

[stephen low]

Thanks guys the sort of stuff I need to know.

What is the anti-sieze suggested then.

Seems I'm filling up my toolbox now with other "extras" - ha

[MikeFromPerth]

this thread has inspired me to go googling spinner tools. here's one:

Sarto Rocheleau -  CobraHalibrand type Spinners      If your Halibrand spinner looks like this one, the tool will fit.This tool applies equal force to all 3 ears of the spinner without distorting the spinner.     The tool drops onto the s

[Karl Bebout]

One other little trick I did is that I drilled 1/8" holes in all the spinner ears so that I have more choices of just where I attach the safety wire. This prevents having a wire running in the way of reaching the air valve stem.

[HI Cobra]

Karl - that reminds me that this winter I will be drilling those extra holes in my spinners. I have one that ended up like that close to the air valve. I can still
check and put air in but it is a minor pia.

[DanEC]

When tightening the spinner with a lead hammer, whack it lightly a few times to snug the wheel up, but then drop the car to the ground and load the wheel/tire with the car's weight before you tighten the spinner. Trying to beat on it with the wheel in the air is just beating your bushings and bearings.

[stephen low]

Guys

I was doing a bit of reading about the anti-seize products, as I wondered what reaction with the aluminium rims, knock-off shaft and spinners the various anti-seize products might have.

Realised I have a tub of Loctite Nickel 771 compound in my chemical stocks and this seems to read as ok to use. It is a high heat resistant variant but it is the chemical mix that is of concern to me.

Anybody got some definitive advice of the nickel based product and potential reactivity?

I know I'll never use up this tub of product so trying not to buy a second different tub.

[Gav]

Nickel will be fine, that's what I'll use.
Btw it's a bastard to clean up, my wife once complained about some of it getting on our carpet (beats me how it got there) CRC contact cleaner gets it off beautifully.

[spdbrake]

In aerospace we use a lot of LB 771 (Nickel) anti seize on turbine engine parts.
Rule of thumb is to grab a pair of Black Nitrile gloves when using it. (good below 2400F)
(Nickel is a cancer causing agent) SDS (used to be called MSDS sheet)
http://hybris.cms.henkel.com/henkel/...N&matnr=235028

For normal use areas like landing gear, bleed air plumbing, flight controls (good below 1800F)
C5-A (copper) anti seize is typically used.
http://hybris.cms.henkel.com/henkel/...US&language=EN

[stephen low]

Thanks guys for the confirmation. Had read it can be a pain if not used sparingly.

Good tip on the chemical hazard too ta.

[super]

Stephen,

as I already mentioned, I use a product from Weicon. I am not sure if you will get this over there, but I like it.

It is white, metal free, ceramic based.

This is the link to the technical data sheet:
Anti-Seize High-Tech | Coating and Protecting | Oil and Gas | Industries | WEICON Germany

And here a picture to how it looks like:

[stephen low]

Super

I'm sure I could source the product if I had the will but just don't need another chemical in the midst of the myriad of others I have accumulated in the garage, especially with a suitable anti-seize to hand.

The nickel variant is carbon grey but I'll be sparing in its use.

Thanks anyway.

Steve

[Rob. Smith]

I use a product called GOOP . It is used in steam turbine applications .. A bit expensive as it's based on a silver compound. Very durable and doesn't walk or fling.