Classic Revival Kit Question

Mando · #1 (**permalink**) 07-29-2004, 05:33 AM

Could any of the C.R. guys let me know if the distance between the inner front fibreglass panel and the 100mm square tubing of the chassis vary from one side to the other? My kit has approx 25mm on one side and nearly touching on the other. Could this be a case of the panels being joined to the body in different positions or something more serious? My front end needs to move over 5mm to be centred in relation to the wheel hubs. This would mean the inner panel will touch the steel framework. Regards Mando.

BMK · #2 (**permalink**) 07-29-2004, 03:53 PM

Mando

Email Aussie Mike on this forum and you may get a quick response. Mike knows his Cobra back tlo front and will be an ideal resource for you.

Mike sorry to dob you in but..

Just find a Post with Aussie Mike on it and drop to the email - centre bottom line.

Welcome to the 'clubcobra forum'

Bernie

pneall · #3 (**permalink**) 07-29-2004, 04:23 PM

Mando,

Mine is out about the same on the inner guards but is not a real problem.

I also have about 10mm difference with wheel alignment with guards from side to side. Didn't notice this until it was all painted and chassis all bolted up:CRY.

Real problem will be when I drill holes for front quick jacks as they wont be equidistant from the stripes so will be noticeable

We must be mindfull that we are talking about a fibreglass vehicle that had its mould taken from a hand beaten alumimium original so there will some discrepancies. Iam just estatic I own a Cobra lookalike.

Just be happy you have got one of the better chassis that are currently being made

Phil

Leeroy · #4 (**permalink**) 07-29-2004, 04:40 PM

Hi Mando,
as Phil says it is f/glass and being semetrical will always be a problem. My body is from the later body design and may vary a bit from yours & Mikes (not sure about Phils) and seems to be spot on. They do tend to settle a bit but 25mm is a lot. I fitted body and all fittings some 6mths ago and dismantled it all again for painting and putting parts back on recently and things did not line up as they earlier did. I think you might want to loosen of all hold down bolts and see if you and a friend can jig body around until yoy are happy with align. Did it come form CR fitted to chassis or have you had to drill holes in body etc.

ps/ dont bother with Mike spoke to him yesterday and he is working on his sun tan in nth QLD.

Cheers Leeroy

BMK · #5 (**permalink**) 07-29-2004, 04:44 PM

Sorry guys

Didn't realise our friend was up in Queensland laying around.

Cheers

Bernie

Aussie Mike · #6 (**permalink**) 07-29-2004, 06:31 PM

Yep, Enjoying the Nth Queensland sun.

My inner guards are out of whack by about 25mm as well. What I've looked at doing is rounding off the edges of the inner guards near the chassis rails so it isn't so obvious.

I've also found it's not real obvious when you have the motor in and the exhaust system on. You can see down the sides as easily or you can only see one side at a time.

As far as getting your front end aligned, I think Leeroy has the right suggestion. To get mine straight I'll need to trim the inner guards to clear the chassis rails. I had to shift the rear around a bit to get the clearances even between the rear wheel arches and the tyres as well.

As Phil said, even the original cars were out of whack. They were hand beaten aluminium and the body on our cars was moulded from one. We aren't going to get the same tollerances you get on a modern car.

Cheers

Mando · #7 (**permalink**) 07-29-2004, 08:52 PM

Thanks for all the help guys. Back to the shed! Regards Mando.

Mando · #8 (**permalink**) 07-29-2004, 10:59 PM

Leeroy, my body came bolted to the chassis and all the holes were cut out of the shell. By the way have all you C.R. guys constructed some sort of bracket to support the weight of the body from the firewall foreward to the nose? Regards

pneall · #9 (**permalink**) 07-29-2004, 11:29 PM

Mando,

The body is supported by the 20mm ? tube at the front. This is held in place by expander foam once all is bolted down. It ends up very strong.

You will find the body much easier to get on and odd if you cut the corners at 45 degrees off rear cross rail (the one behind fuel tank) This has no impact on strength but saves your fingers and the fibreglass.

Regards,

Phil

Leeroy · #10 (**permalink**) 07-29-2004, 11:41 PM

I thought the expanded foam was a bit iffy. I drilled & tapped the 20mm tube in 2 places & used c/sunk s/steel capscrews to secure front down. It is solid as a rock & looks quite good, my exterior color is carcoal so they are quite hard to see even in the grey undercoat. Phil good advise on the rear end, I ripped open my fingers getting body off once and needed stitches.

Leeroy

Mando · #11 (**permalink**) 07-29-2004, 11:54 PM

Thanks for the tip Phil. Im not convinced the foam at the front will cope with years of punishment on the road. I know thats how Ian builds them. Ive made some brackets that run from the angled 20mm square tube up to the bolts that go through the fibreglass that bolt up the curved bracket that attaches to the bonnet. Ive also glassed some plates into the inner guards so the fibeglass doesnt fatigue. These plates are about 120mm square. Regards

Mando · #12 (**permalink**) 07-30-2004, 04:46 AM

Thanks for all the help guys. I think Ill trim the fibreglass to allow the body to move over as per Aussie Mikes suggestion. Im only looking to move the front across 4.5mm. Regards.

boxhead · #13 (**permalink**) 07-30-2004, 04:03 PM

My inner guards are out by about the same amount Mando.

I havent checked the alignment of guards to wheels so I better do that next time the body is on.

Thanks for the tip regarding the rear corners of chassis and makeing hold brackets on the front bar.

I too wasnt too keen on filling it up with expanding foam