Classic Revivals and the Dark Side

[pneall]

As there are now a growing number of CR with Gen 111 engines I thought I would start this thread so we could share our experiences and hopefully safe others $$ and in some cases physical pain.

For Starters.

1. Bleeding the clutch slave cylinder is almost impossible once the body is on. Suggest running the bleed valve to a more accessible place.

2. If you cut the corners at 45 degrees on the last cross support on the chassis it is a lot easier and safer to lift the body on and off.

3.Where the top steering column bracket is supported weld nuts to top of support plate as its hard work getting a spanner in there once the dash and wiring is completed.

4. Make changes to the wiring loom especially the O2 sensor wiring before the body is on. Its difficult operating on the wiring loom from underneath with your arms wrapped around the gearbox.I have the scratches to prove it.

5. Fitting a high energy sump to the Gen 111 engine is great for oil control but ends up being lowest part of vehicle. I had to fit sump guard.

6. Nutserts are a much neater and stonger way to attach items to both steel and fibreglass.

I will add more as they come to mind.

Regards,

Phil

[Leeroy]

Hi Phil,

1. I fitted a braided line which is clamped to base of gearbox so you can bleed clutch whenever without any drama. When I was fitting new pressure plate/clutch I thought it was going to be a problem. (see pic)
2.Why didnt you tell me 12 months ago, ripped the top off 3 fingers the first time I lifted off.
3.Good idea and will do it asap.
4.My O2 sensors are fitted near the collectors so I had to change loom anyway, but would love to change exhaust now so you dont see the sensors. Next time!!
5.Gone with standard Corvette sump so no clearance dramas, same a chassis height from road.
6.Used nutserts everywhere. Wish I invented those suckers be smokin cigars now!
7. Earmuff's to blockout the abuse from those "Ford guys"

Leeroy

[Rebel1]

8. Investment account or a friendly bank manager to finance the go fast bits to compete with the ford guys.

[pneall]

Found a few other things on weekend.

a) The area where the soft top ferrules fit is not flat on the drivers side. Easy to fix before painting but requires taper washers afterwards. Bow must be vertical otherwise window support wont line up with top of screen.

b) Front suspension has built in bump steer. Toes out on acceleration and in on braking. At least its not other way round.

c) Ran out of camber adjustment on rear. Will have to modify top arm to fix.

d. Good starting point for spring height ( no weight on car) if using AVO shocks is 240 mm.

e) Mike Murphys muffler design works real well. Nice note through the gears with no noise when cruising in 5th or 6th.

f) You can accelerate in 6th gear. Not startling but still picks up nicely.

g) You can start in 3rd gear. That means you can blow your licence without changing gear

Phil

[BMK]

Some great ideas here. Good to hear - sorry - that Mike's mufflers work so well


A set on order

Bernie

[boxhead]

Phil have you had Mikes side pipes tested for noise level?

If they are ok then I will get a set sooner than later and get rego with side pipes fitted.
Do you have a Db reading?

[boxhead]

Here are a couple of hints I have found so far.

1/ Use a brake cylinder hone to clean out the lower front control arm inner mounting pivot bolt mounting hole.

2/ Ensure you get the correct upper front control arms (straight, not tappered in).

3/ Dont be scared to take on the gearbox modification as described by Mike, it is'nt as scarey as you think when makeing the first cut.

4/ Use B&M ripper shifter part # 45051 it requires elongateing mounting holes to fit.

5/ When cutting and welding shift linkage remove the plastic bucket that the shift lever sits in and dont loose it as this part is not available seperatly (I checked before trying to prize free)

6/ As described by Mike move your rear lower shockie mounts inboard as far as possable to fit wider rear rims.

7/ When buying your engine if you are useing a Commodore motor then you will need to modify the r/h aluminium mounting ear by cutting and welding so your mount bolt hole is 55mm closer to engine block.

8/ When rebuilding your front calipers keep the metal clamps that hold the rubber boots to caliper as all suppliers dont supply these clamps with o/haul kits.

9/ If useing nolathane bushes in the front or rear suspension apply HEAPS of the grease to prevent squeaks.

10/ If useing the Commodore engine you will need to get either a new thermostat top houseing (corvette) or have yours modified as it points straight at the r/h suspension tower.

11/ If you need technical info or prices for any of the Holden stuff in these cars let me know, I can definatly help with technical and get prices at very good rates for the parts.

[BMK]

Is this dark side worth all the trouble??



Bernie

[Aussie Mike]

LS1 thermostat housing isn't a problem, just be careful how you run your pipes in.

[Mando]

Seems very dark out there!

Regards.

[pneall]

Hey Bernie , will let you know if its worth the trouble after I get my LS1 edit in early September

Boxhead, Havent had noise test yet. Doubt it would pass test as it is very tight. 90 dB at 500mm from exhaust while reving at 2700 rpm.

Almost finished air intake. You can run a 100mm flexible from the throttle body to in front of radiator. I hope to fit conical K&N in there somewhere. Will know on Friday Night.

Remember to lock the bonnet locks if you need to leave vehicle for wheel alignment etc stops the P###cks from looking at engine then scratching the edges of locating holes when they cant work out how to shut bonnet


also make sure pivot bolt holding clutch pedal is in before steering column is in .

You can get under the dash of a CR by laying in the seat and putting legs over roll bar. Just TRY getting out


Worked out how you get out of Cobra with Soft Top on. You fall on ground narrowly missing hot side pipe , then pick youself up while acting like this is how its done. Gotta start YOGA.

Phil

[Leeroy]

Hi Phil,
where do you get the 100mm flexable line to go from throttle body to filter. I haven't looked to hard yet but found that most of the cone filters were all 70mm and I can't remember throttle body dia. as its away at moment. Any ideas on where you get reducers & flex line in sizes you need. Have you run a MAF with yours?
Leeroy

[pneall]

Leeroy,

Flexible duct from Motorsport Connection 1800 242 910. This stuff stays round but will turn 180 degrees. Its 102 mm ID.

Its silicone outer (high temp) with wire internal support. $82.00 per metre. I needed 1 metre.

At moment I have it clamped and taped to MAF as the MAF is about 90mm. At edit the MAF will be removed. I intend fitting 200mm of 100 mm Aluminium tube to front of TB. This will house air temp sensor. Haven't checked OD of TB yet, may need to machine up adaptor.

When is yours back from painting??

Regards,

Phil

[Leeroy]

Thanks Phil I will contac them. Had it back form painters for some time (see gallery) and have put most of it back together. It is now at John Heckwrath Eng. having final PCM reprogrammed and general going over my electrical work and hopefully running in the next couple of weeks. As usual it sat for 4 weeks before any work started but I have been pushing to see progress and it looks like it is happening now. October 1,2 & 3 is coming too quick though. so hope I can get there with car. Like you I just want to get intake happening first then later will do some nicer work and turf the MAF.
Cheers Leeroy

[Sloth]

I know that the Classic Revival kit with LS1 is very deadly. A tip for you all:

Do not drive fast into wall. VERY costly.

Sloth.

[boxhead]

When fitting brake pedals you should trial fit them with the dash frame (metal hoop part with colomn and pedal pivots) out of the car.
I was fitting mine today and found that the clutch pedal is fouling on the L/H side as the pivot mount (flat plate) is not welded right at the edge of the square 1 inch tubing so the pedal fouls at its pivot.
I have had to grind the pivot mounts of for the clutch and reweld them on about 1/2 a mm to the right so it clears.

It is hard to describe so go out into the shed and take a look.

[David Hodgson]

Originally posted by Sloth

I know that the Classic Revival kit with LS1 is very deadly. A tip for you all:

Do not drive fast into wall. VERY costly.

Sloth.

Sloth, what have you gone and done? was this recent? You OK?
Sounds like the cars not.

[Sloth]

Niot recent mate. Christmas 03. All better now.

[boxhead]

Here is a picture of the clutch pedal fouling that I described earlier.