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11-22-2004, 05:31 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Sunbury,
VIC
Cobra Make, Engine: Rat Rod Racer, LS1 & T56
Posts: 5,391
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Not Ranked
Check out Phil's Nuts
Hi All,
Phil and I have been looking at alternatives to the traditional wheel spiners for pin drive wheels. This is a concern for Classic Revival cars equiped with pin drives since the shallow dish on the wheels puts the spinner out in the breeze. While in my opinion this looks cool we were both a bit worried how the authorities will view the Ben Hurr style wheels.
The solution is a set of Hex Nuts that Phil managed to source through Finish line in the US. These are a neat tidy looking setup without the thrashing wings of the spinner.
The next challenge was how do you get them on and off? The nuts measure 70mm accross the flats and that's a pretty big socket. There are comercially available 70mm sockets but they are expensive. They are also 3/4" or 1" drive so you also need to buy a bar or torque wrench to fit the socket. The other issue is that the sockets are steel and they will mark the surface of the alloy hex nut.
I had some 6061 billet alloy in the right size so I machined up a socket to fit. This was a bit of a challenge since I'd never machined an internal hex before. I looked at the design of some good quality sockets and made a 6 point flat drive socket. This means it applies the pressure to the flats of the nut rather than the corners so there is less chance of marking or rounding the nut. The 6061 aluminium socket while strong is still softer than the anodised surface of the hex nut. So far it desn't leave any marks on the surface of the nut.
driving the socket turned out to be pretty easy. I made up a bar to run through the side of the socket. This had an added advantage since it keeps the point of leverage close to the nut so there is less chance of it skewing sideways and marking the nut. The bar is about 5' long but I'll make a shorter 2 piece one so it can be carried in the boot.
You can put plenty of torque on the nut and I believe they normally run at about 450 foot/pound. To do that reasonably accurately just weigh yourself on some scales and then work out how far from the pivot you need to apply all your weight to achieve the right torque. Mark the bar and then stand on that point when tightening it.
That's one more distraction out of the way, now I better get stuck back into the wiring and other stuff.
Cheers
__________________
Mike Murphy
Melbourne Australia
Last edited by Aussie Mike; 11-22-2004 at 05:34 AM..
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11-22-2004, 05:51 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: Brisbane Australia,
QLD
Cobra Make, Engine: RMC under re-construction, GenIV with tremec 600, Jag 3.31 L/S diff
Posts: 3,318
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Not Ranked
Mike... I dunno what the dark side would do wiffout ya
Good stuff mate
__________________
It's impossible to soar like an eagle when you're surrounded by turkeys.
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11-22-2004, 12:42 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Sydney,
NSW
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic Revival. 6 litre Chev
Posts: 669
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Not Ranked
Mike,
Excellent work (as always). That should get rid of the protrusion issue at rego/rerego time.
Thanks again for the top job.
Phil
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11-22-2004, 03:12 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Cobra Make, Engine: RCM, 4 wheels, two doors
Posts: 704
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Not Ranked
Mike,
Time to open that cobra shop of yours
This months specials:
Gear shifter mods
Side pipes
Hex socket and tensioner (comes with instructions)
11" wheel suspension mods
Hydratrack Diff conversion
Cross-drilled vented front discs
Fuel rail mods
Roll bars
Custom serge tank
In Development:
8TB's
Completely new cobra design by Aussie Mike
I'm amazed by your tinkering abilities Mike! Great Stuff!
Last edited by NASSTY; 11-22-2004 at 03:24 PM..
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11-22-2004, 04:57 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: Brisbane Australia,
QLD
Cobra Make, Engine: RMC under re-construction, GenIV with tremec 600, Jag 3.31 L/S diff
Posts: 3,318
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Not Ranked
Hey Al, One thing you missed in Mike's to do list
Telescopic handle for large nut remover.
Mind you, I've no doubt that when he does invent the above gadget, it will be dual purpose. Like it will remove wheel nuts, will also serve the jack for the car, will form part of the roll cage so it stores unobtrusively, and finally..
Will serve as a balance bar for when he has to lifts that engine out .
Cheers
__________________
It's impossible to soar like an eagle when you're surrounded by turkeys.
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11-22-2004, 05:33 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Sunbury,
VIC
Cobra Make, Engine: Rat Rod Racer, LS1 & T56
Posts: 5,391
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Not Ranked
No problem Phil, it was fun working out how to machine up the hex. Thanks for the loan of the nuts to get me through rego.
Telescopic... Hmm that might work. 26mm medium black pipe slides neatly inside 32mm medium black pipe. 3.2mm wall thickness would still be plenty strong enough and a bit lighter than what the 26mm heavy black pipe I'm using.
Mrs Pneal is pretty handy with a sewing machine so I bet she could put together a vinyl pouch to store the whole thing neatly in the boot.
Cheers
__________________
Mike Murphy
Melbourne Australia
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11-22-2004, 05:39 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Brisbane - sort of,
QLD
Cobra Make, Engine: DRB 2000 - FORD Powered 302EFI
Posts: 1,431
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Not Ranked
Come on Mike,
Go the whole hog and get those spinners extendable - like James Bond's DRB 5 (Sorry DB) car.
And while your at it - how about some machine guns popping out of the side vents
Very nice - I take my hat off to you
__________________
PCC (Peter Craig)
Keep the sun shining
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11-22-2004, 05:57 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Sunbury,
VIC
Cobra Make, Engine: Rat Rod Racer, LS1 & T56
Posts: 5,391
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Not Ranked
Don't know about the machine guns and the tyre shredders but I think I'll be able to work out right foot activated smoke screen.
Cheers
__________________
Mike Murphy
Melbourne Australia
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11-22-2004, 07:47 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Canberra,
ACT
Cobra Make, Engine: Currently Researching
Posts: 106
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Not Ranked
Yeah definatly the first shot of your Cobra that would be an ADR breach and a red sticker job.
I had some problems with bolted joints in my old 4WD Patrol project and two books that helped me alot were:
High Perfomance Hardware
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...=UTF8&v=glance
Carroll Smith's Nuts, Bolts and Fasteners and Plumbing Handbook
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...glance&s=books
The new ones look nice.
I guess I should get my hands on a colour book of ACs so I can see what they looked like and what the differences between the models were. You blokes got any ideas?
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11-23-2004, 12:33 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Australia,
Zzz
Cobra Make, Engine: Shelby alum 468 block
Posts: 14,974
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Not Ranked
Now this Thread will get some hits
Aussie Mike
Now I bet this 'Thread" gets more hits than Lionel Rose
Check out phil's nuts
Bernie
__________________
Bernie Knight
KMS 427 #662 Shelby 468 CSX 1026
Last edited by BMK; 11-23-2004 at 12:36 AM..
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11-27-2004, 08:28 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Cupertino,
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: Contemporary Classic CCX 3970: 1965 427 Cobra S/C, Shelby aluminum 427 CSX 290 (468 cu in) engine
Posts: 789
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Not Ranked
Bathrone: One book that may interest you is "Original AC Ace & Cobra" by Rinsey Mills, photography by Mick Walsh with John Simpson and Ned Scudder, edited by Mark Hughes, published in 1990 by MBI Publishing Company in Wisconsin, USA. Lots of informative stuff from the beautiful '54 AC Ace right up to the 427 Cobra. Great photography and a lot of it on the AC cars. Rich
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11-30-2004, 06:56 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Canberra,
ACT
Cobra Make, Engine: G-Force Cobra '68 302, T-5, Jag 3.77 LSD.
Posts: 993
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally posted by Bathrone
I guess I should get my hands on a colour book of ACs so I can see what they looked like and what the differences between the models were. You blokes got any ideas? [/b]
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Bathrone
For a few book sugestions check out thread on page 2 "Authentic Cobra Bullet List"
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