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![Old](/forums/images/statusicon/post_old.gif)
12-18-2004, 06:56 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic Revival, LS1, Shift kitted auto, high stall, AU LSD rear.
Posts: 128
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Not Ranked
Steering columns
Is it mandatory to have a steering lock on your column?
I had hoped to build a timber dash for my car and wished to have the ignition on the dash.
The list of adrs in the manual from 'cr' refers using a standard column so as to retain the locking mechanism, has anyone registered a kit car without the steering lock?
Gav
PS having a hoot this weekend, my wife thinks she may never see me again.
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12-18-2004, 07:27 PM
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![boxhead's Avatar](http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/image.php?u=14064&dateline=1472440638) |
CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Alice Springs, central Australia,
NT
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic revival kit (CR3181), gen III engine, T56 6 speed box, AU XR8 lsd diff
Posts: 5,699
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My understanding is that you are required to have a steering colomn lock to get your registration.
I have not asked but had heard this to be the law.
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12-18-2004, 07:36 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: Brisbane Australia,
QLD
Cobra Make, Engine: RMC under re-construction, GenIV with tremec 600, Jag 3.31 L/S diff
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Yep..ya gotta have a steering lock...leastwise at inspection time.
My steering collumn is from a mitsubishi colt. The lock is easilly removed later.
When you wire the car....provide enough length to the ignition pig tails to reach a dash mounted ignition switch.
easy ![Big Grin](http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
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Last edited by Rebel1; 12-19-2004 at 04:35 AM..
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12-19-2004, 05:35 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Melbourne,
VIC
Cobra Make, Engine: DRB,Ford Tickford 302 220kw with BTR 4 speed auto, 3.9:1 LSD
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As already stated you must have a steering lock. I have to use the Ford coded keys but I have a Torana steering collum and lock. I asked if I could have the ignition on the dash and just have a seperate lever for the steering lock. The answer was no, because it should not be possible to put the lock on whilst the engine is running (mighty dangerous).
So I have the Ford Smartshield ignition mounted in the dash and the Torana ignition in the steering collum. A wire runs from the Torana ignition to the Ford ignition so if the Torana ignition is turned off/steering lock applied then power is cut to the Ford ignition. Basically means I need 2 keys to start the bastard. Not the best but I could not come up with a better solution.
On the positive side my Auto Elec says the only way anybody could steel my car is if they put it on a truck.
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Cameron
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12-19-2004, 02:35 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2004
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Cobra Make, Engine: G-Force Cobra '68 302, T-5, Jag 3.77 LSD.
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Gav
I've been out of the auto game for a couple of years now so exact wording of requirements are a bit scratchy, but i don't believe you need a "steering" lock but rather the requirement is for Ignition key activated anti theft( later requirements- 2 forms). Some European cars have the ignition on the centre consol and the key when removed locks the shifter in "park" or "reverse" for a manual, an acceptable form of antitheft.
Another way around your dilema would be to have the key in the column to activate ignition and use a push button on the dash for your starter. The wiring for this gets a bit tricky as you need the warning lamp check circuitry included.
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12-20-2004, 03:35 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic Revival, LS1, Shift kitted auto, high stall, AU LSD rear.
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Thanks for everyones reply.
The real drama I have is that the Classic Revival dash has a recess for the key as the column sits back, and a timber dash like I want does not. The keys would foul on the dash without it.
I hadn't thought of using a card key though such as the new renult lagunas and the such.
Seems a bit strange to want a timber dash and the latest in ignition systems??!!!
Anyone else have strange thoughts like mine?
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12-20-2004, 09:14 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Melbourne. Australia,
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Cobra Make, Engine: Classic Revival kit. LS1 motor. T56 Tremec 6 speed. 17" replica Halibrand wheels.
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Hi Gav,
I looked at doing timber dash in the early stages also but came up against your problem, other problem I saw was trying to finish it off on the ends as it curves in towards the front. So I gave up and paid $120 for a f/glass one, still love the timber dash though. Maybe the column could be extended to bring the ignition out without too much hassle. One things for sure with the f/glass dash is you need kids hands to turn the key as its pretty tight in there, I believe Phil fitted a lauch button on the dash which is a good idea (especially on th Go to Wo as lots of guys stalled) Timber looks good if you go the traditional look as I was going to do mine in B/racing green no stripes and keep it looking very "british" I guess, but my boys were going to divorce the family. What colr combo are you thinking Gav?
Leeroy
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12-20-2004, 10:22 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2004
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Cobra Make, Engine: Wish I had my own PACE 427
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In our Harrison we kept the original steering column ignition switch(with original steering lock) and also wired up dash mounted ignition switch. Both were wired in so you could use either. The steering cloumn one was behind the dash. Just use the column one behind the dash for rego and then just leave the key in it so the steering lock never engages.
Cobra was approved last year in QLD and we had to have a steering lock. I believe this has always been the case in QLD anyway as our DRB 7 years ago also needed a steering lock.
You could just have a temporary timber dash with a big cutout next to column so you can access original ignition switch.
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12-20-2004, 10:41 PM
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: Brisbane Australia,
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Cobra Make, Engine: RMC under re-construction, GenIV with tremec 600, Jag 3.31 L/S diff
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As I mentioned earlier...I've got the steering lock/Ign key where it should be on the column but have also fitted a dash mounted ign switch which is within reach of the ign key harness after inspection.
Regarding the timber dash and you traditional types
I have seen a glass dash laminated with thin timber laminate (real timber) epoxy glued over the glass. The laminate was so thin it would conform to curves etc.
It was then finished off with an epoxy resin specially made for giving a deep gloss to timber...Can't remember the name but next time I'm at Bunnings I'll get the product name as I've seen it there. Bluddy gorgeous stuff over timber, said to be the equivalent to 50 coats of varnish in one coat.
Very pucka pucka in an English sorta way ![Big Grin](http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
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12-21-2004, 04:33 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Sydney,
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Cobra Make, Engine: Classic Revival #3199. 366ci L76, T56 6 speed, Blue circle custom paint, Australias most original cobra 2009-2010
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Timber...something I know a little about....
You could perhaps use a method used to make curved plywood (as in chair backs). Sheets of veneer are glued together and placed in a press with the desired curvature\shape. When the glue dries open her up and it will retain the desired shape.
As for the 50 coats of varnish product (i think its called "liquid gloss" or something similar)...real timber should never be finished with this stuff as it doesnt allow the timber to breath. It would prob go OK on a veneered fibreglass dash though, although its not the most natural looking finish.
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12-21-2004, 10:31 PM
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Cobra Make, Engine: Rat Rod Racer, LS1 & T56
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I think it was Trevor Simkin who did his dash in wood grain laminex bench top material. No fading or cracking, no need for coatings etc, just wipe clean with any kitchen cleaner.
Looked quite realistic too.
Cheers
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Mike Murphy
Melbourne Australia
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12-22-2004, 04:51 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Central Coast Sydney, Australia,
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Cobra Make, Engine: Classic Revival, Gen3 ls1, Vortech T-Trim, Motec, tremec M12, wilwood brakes.
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Hi guys I had my timber dash steamed and pressed to form the curves at either end I will see if I can find some pictures.
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Craig W
Central Coast NSW
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12-31-2004, 12:46 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic Revival, LS1, Shift kitted auto, high stall, AU LSD rear.
Posts: 128
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Leeroy,
I had thouht of a few colour combo's but my wife has had other ideas. She thought an austin powers colour scheme was a bit dramatic. I keep on coming back to british racing green as there does not seem to be a great number of green cobras. I too won't be having stripes.
I have not yet decided on the dash construction but the card ignition is still on the drawing board.
I hope everyone has had a great xmas and new year. I know I had and will!!!!!
Gav
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12-31-2004, 10:06 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Broken Arrow,
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Cobra Make, Engine: RU Carcrafters / 408 Stroker
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I did a full 3/4" mahogany dash in mine and put the ignition switch on the dash. I cut the ignition off of my column along with the lock in order to push the stearing column farther forward. I did not have any problems getting mine registered. Take a look in my picutres. If you use a solid wood I would suggest a wood with a finer grain, they don't tend to warp or crack as much. Also I stained the front and back but only sealed the front. This allows the wood to still breath without warping or cracking. You can also use any veneere wood of your choice and seale it with no problems. I use to build furniture for a living so the wood dash was a must for me, plus I like the rich look of it. Am going to be experminting with a curved wood dash with some aluminum mixed in to see what it looks like in the near future.
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