Wiring question for Classic Revivals

[boxhead]

As the heading says I have a question.
For those guys who have done there wiring or are thinking about it, Where did you run the wiring through to the rear?
Ie : Where through the rear bulkhead did you go?
I am mounting fuse box and all wiring down left hand side of the car and can safely run the wires along the floor inside the cabin beside the sill, then around the post with the door striker mounted, but where did you go from there?
You can go through into the boot area by running the loom halfway up the rear bulkhead or did most people go through the bottom corner and through to the wheel well then up infront of the strut tower and through the side into the boot area?

Also on a side note I didnt think about it earlier but I will need to modify the wiring harness I bought as it is setup for the American way of things where they dont have seperate brake light wiring running down to the back of the vehicle.

[Cobra.au]

Hi Box head

I ran my wiring inside the trans tunnel as there is no neat way to get the harness from the cabin to the boot.

Doing it this way at lest keeps it out of sight.

Craig W

[Leeroy]

Boxhead
I mounted my ECU & fusebox under passenger footwell. Harness go thru grommet near fuel filter down to ECU & fusebox. Then it is routed from fusebox down thru top end of tunnel (should have gone a bit higher with this as I was thinking you might see it form inside of engine bay!!) then along underside of tunnel & up into boot area etc. Hope this is of help.
Cheers Leeroy

[Leeroy]

then for ecu etc. thru down to underside of tunnel

[Leeroy]

coming up form tunnel & into rear boot area etc.

[Aussie Mike]

Well done Leigh, I've been wondering how I should run the loom back to the boot.

Boxhead, Thanks for the tip on the US loom. I hadn't even realised.

Cheers

[boxhead]

Thanks for the pics Leeroy (especially where you have your heater).
I will have another look over the next weekend and get the rear wiring sorted, I shall also mount a battery isolater somewhere in the boot area.
I got home last night and a courier company had been home and left a card (more Cobra presents).
I am not sure yet what it is going to be but the anticipation sure has got my feet itchy.

[justbetter]

Oh thats a heater... i thought it was a turbo and that it was what was going to heat the cabin, i though it was a smart move, keeping down the weight and all.

Thank god im not working on my gearbox

[boxhead]

I collected my presents yesterday, so now I have a dash and some pedals to fit.

Can anyone tell me how they mounted there dash?
Did you glass some bolts into the back of panel or did you use bolts through the panel?

Can anyone also tell me if there are any tricks to glassing steel onto fibreglass?
I am going to glass a rod along the lower edge of the dash panel and put 2 steel rods from the bottom of the dash down to the top of the tunnel to stop the dash from flexing and for the look of a genuine car.

[justbetter]

Yeah glad to help out again

Best material for that mounting solution is good old BLUE TACK yep, if you find you get a bit to much movement after mounting, 1/2 a tube of liquid nails should do it, but make sure you mask the area as the bleeding of liquid nails can be hard to remove on compleation.
The good thing with the BLUE TACK is, if it not suitable you can reuse it and mount some girly posters in the boot on the underside of the boot lid.

any time

[boxhead]

Thanks Garrett, I am on my way to the newsagents now.
Do ya reckon one pack will do or should I get 2?

[justbetter]

Mate i got 6 packs used 4 on the dash and the other two i wraped around all the exposed bolt threads to stop the nuts from coming loose, was cheaper that that lock tight stuff...

Now lets see who likes to drive behind me

[Leeroy]

Boxhead
I did as you have thought & f/glassed m10 nutserts to the inside of dash. They are the type you would use on timber & have barbs on them which you tap into the timber. F/glass is easy just slop it around it sticks like sh*%t to a blanket once it drys. Just vass up the bolts and leave them in when galssing so you dont fowl the threads. I didnt brace my dash & it doesn't vibrate a bit (took 12 packs of blue tack though)
Great these new kitchen products

[David Hodgson]

dave
After the blue tack failed, i used a couple of angled brackets each end from the scuttle hoop, and I also used a centre bracket at the top of the dash using the same bolts from the dash mirror mount (under the cowl).

[boxhead]

Sounds like I should be buying shares in Blu Tac.
Thanks for the tip about vaseline on the bolt threads, I didnt think of that.
The pedals that Ian sent are from Tilton and have pads welded on with rubber covers, do I just cut these off and make a spring loaded clip to fit the AC pedals?

[Mando]

Hi Boxhead,
I thought the go pedal was the only one that was spring loaded and the other two were solid mounted. Have I stuffed something else up?

Regards.

[boxhead]

The accelerator normally is but I figured for comfort and ease (sic) then it is easiest to mount the others in the same way.
Plus how else can I mount the alloy pedals to the steel arm?

[Mando]

I ground the rear of the pedals so they were all the same thickness and welded a curved flat plate to each arm. Once the arms are painted Ill use some industrial epoxy to set the pedals in place.

Regards.