Oils aint Oils - Page 2

601HP · #21 (**permalink**) 07-04-2005, 07:17 PM

Castrol 20-50.

Aussie Mike · #22 (**permalink**) 07-04-2005, 07:24 PM

This got me thinking a bit about vegetable based oils in engines.

A friend of mine years ago used to run his 2 stroke race bikes on methanol and castor oil premix. You had to mix it up fresh as it didn't like sitting in the tank but it produced significantly less wear than any of the mineral based oils at the time.

Smelled good too.

Cheers

SCOBRAC · #23 (**permalink**) 07-04-2005, 11:17 PM

I use to use Mobile 1... To be honest I am a little confused about their new formulations and really hate change...

So Now I use Red Line 20/50.

750hp · #24 (**permalink**) 07-05-2005, 02:29 AM

I have always used Castrol. It used to be GP50, then it was changed to Formula R. Always 20W50. While dyno tests have generally shown slight power gains with lighter oils, I have found that the oil has saved me from costly repairs on a couple of occasions.

1. The 460 in my Fairmont had massive oil surge at 6000+ rpm while I was braking from VERY HIGH speed at the drags. I was at 0 oil pressure for about 6 seconds. The bearings were inspected and shown to be as good as brand new.

2. I don't have an oil cooler or oil temp gauge in the Cobra. Before I had set up the Motec triggered idiot lights on the car, I took the car to Qld Raceway. The oil temp was over 260 degrees F, and oil pressure was unaffected. I was sure that I would have hurt bearings when I looked at the datalogging, but again - good as new !

Ant · #25 (**permalink**) 05-31-2008, 08:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scottj

One you've probably never heard of: Schaeffer Supreme 7000 Racing Oil 20W-50.

Scott, a guy here in NZ running a Transam which holds outright lap records, plus a whole series uses Schaeffer semi-synthetic 20-50 7000 race oil, some claim 3 years without tearing the engine down, plus excellent ring seal over full synthetic on V8 engines! I understand another plus is the oils ability to protect flat tappet camshafts.

Having said that how often are you changing your oil?

Philm · #26 (**permalink**) 06-01-2008, 02:48 AM

I use Penrite HPR 30.

I change it regularly, everytime after a good week end on the track.

Phil

wtm442 · #27 (**permalink**) 06-01-2008, 04:10 AM

Redline 20W-50

Tony Radford · #28 (**permalink**) 06-01-2008, 05:21 AM

Amsoil Racing 2000 - 20W50.

elric · #29 (**permalink**) 06-01-2008, 09:51 AM

Any of the diesel oils; Rotella, Delvac, or Chevron. The synthetics are not cost effective at all in an older engine that is driven seasonally.

ENTDOC · #30 (**permalink**) 06-01-2008, 10:40 AM

the diesel oils have all been reformulated and are little different from any other oil now.

http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html

Steve Gallegos · #31 (**permalink**) 06-01-2008, 12:46 PM

Pen green 50w. Has all the addatives in it that was taken out of modern oils by the EPA.

Slither · #32 (**permalink**) 06-01-2008, 01:41 PM

Brad Penn 20W-50 Racing oil, better known as the green oil.

scottj · #33 (**permalink**) 06-01-2008, 02:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ant

Scott, a guy here in NZ running a Transam which holds outright lap records, plus a whole series uses Schaeffer semi-synthetic 20-50 7000 race oil, some claim 3 years without tearing the engine down, plus excellent ring seal over full synthetic on V8 engines! I understand another plus is the oils ability to protect flat tappet camshafts.

Having said that how often are you changing your oil?

A J- I checked the screen after every event and change the oil every other. That could amount to ~200 miles for the Cobra and ~40 miles for my dirt engines. I ran the 1st Cobra engine 3500 miles, turning it 7200, replacing only valvesprings every 1000miles, and it looked new inside upon teardown.

Brad Penn 20W-50 ("the green oil") is the same oil that Kendall GT1 20w-50 (the original "green oil") used to be.

Scott

Slither · #34 (**permalink**) 06-01-2008, 02:45 PM

scottj, I was told that Brad Penn bought out Kendall. Do you know if that is true or not?

scottj · #35 (**permalink**) 06-01-2008, 04:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Slither

scottj, I was told that Brad Penn bought out Kendall. Do you know if that is true or not?

The Kendall name was sold to Conoco/Phillips Lubricants. The refinery in Bradford, Pennsilvania was bought by American Refining Group. There they still make the old Kendall GT1 oil, now named Brad Penn- Penn Grade 1. They also produce a break-in specific blend as well as many other racing related lubricants.

http://www.bradpennracing.com/

http://www.amref.com/bp_product_pgs/BPengoils.htm

http://www.kendallmotoroil.com/ContactUs/index.htm

Slither · #36 (**permalink**) 06-01-2008, 05:38 PM

Thanks scottj! Their products are hard to find out here in the desert of the West Coast. I will keep hunting!

ZOERA-SC7XX · #37 (**permalink**) 06-01-2008, 05:54 PM

I use Shell Rotella.

jdean · #38 (**permalink**) 06-01-2008, 07:56 PM

Shell Rotella 15-50

arm7419 · #39 (**permalink**) 06-01-2008, 08:06 PM

Valvoline Durablend

bobcowan · #40 (**permalink**) 06-01-2008, 08:50 PM

Motor oil is always a little bit of black magic. Mostly because the ingredients for each are a tightly held secret. With all the ad hype, it's hard to pick out a good oil. Here's my opinion, though:

Synthetic oils will handle abuse better than dino oils, especially heat. The additive package is usually more stable, allowing for a longer drain interval. And that's good, because they're more expensive.

The trick is picking out a good synthetic. The first thing you need to know is, what is a synthetic oil? In the beginning, a synthetic oil started with a true synthetic PAO base stock. A manufactured molucule, derived from natural gas. Semi-Synthetic oils started with a group III or IV base stock, which is derived from standard dino oil. Synthetic blends had a mixture of base stocks which varied from one oil to the next.

Fast foreward to 2008. Due to an interesting trick by lawyers and ad men, a synthetic doesn't mean what you think it means, or what it used to mean. Any oil that has been formulated to meet certain performance charectoristics can be called a "fully synthetic" oil. Even oils that start with a group III or IV dino oil can be called fully synthetic, as long as they meet the performance standards.

AFAIK, there are only three oils on the general market that are truly synthetic (started with a PAO base stock): Amsoil, Royal Purple, and Redline. That's it, only three. Notice that Mobile 1 is NOT one of the three. Mobile 1 is actually a semi-synthetic. It's not a bad oil by all accounts; it's just not what you think it is. Now it's getting cheap enough, I might consider using it again.

Now, how much oil performance do you really need? Royal Purple and Redline are probably the very best motor oils generally available. I use RP in my cobra, since it see's a lot of hard track miles. It's expensive, but worth it for this engine.

But, none of my other cars use it. Why? They just don't need that kind of performance for a daily driver. Many people here claim M1 is an excellent oil and they've never had any oiling problems while using it. M1 is a Group IV oil. That means that any "fully synthetic" group IV oil meets the same performance charectoristics. So, why pay $5.95 form M1, when I can get Penzoil, QS, Castrol, etc for $4? My daily drivers get QS. Probably more protection/performance than they really need, but reasonably priced.

Flat tappet cams have a real problem. As has been said, the diesel oils have been reformulated, so they don't have any zinc in them either. No matter what oil you use, you MUST include a zinc additive, or your cam won't last long. Comp Cams and Crane Cams have their own brand. GM used to sell one, but they dropped it. And I believe STP is mostly zinc, but I can't prove that.