Victorian G-Force builders / owners

[Rebel1]

Originally Posted by stephen low

Thanks again guys

Les

The flat bracket is really then just a linkage mechanism?
Cheers

from pall

Yep..thats correct steve, it just allows easy connection of the clevis and a double swivel connection. I used 25mm x 3mm flat steel which suited the clevis perfectly. The handbrake end I used thick washers either side of the flat steel to make up the thickness between the handbrake cheeks.

I did shape the flat steel into a taper so it didn't look so agricultural. ie. It ended up a rounded arrow shape.
Cheers

[stephen low]

lobelly
have organised to make a copy and we had talked about 2nd spare so if Chris is ok with this, there are no probs here.

cheers

[Andrew429]

Hi Stephen,

I'll get you a length tommorrow.
Mine will vary slightly from the norm, due to me ending up with two female caliper arms. I welded a a bolt into the clevis to allow this to bolt up, which doubles as a second adjustment point for cable tension. This is the end of the cable that I shortened (cut and crimped).
I drilled out the standard gemini fixture and fitted a bolt with spacer and 90 degree hole to fit up the standard jag threaded end of the cable. This sounds similar to the approach Les used.

Cheers

[stephen low]

Andrew

Thanks but don't bother, I drilled a hole in the metal work and fitted the hbrake cable. Clevis pin is to caliper, adjustment to rear of hbrake.

If I were to cut off one end of the inner cable, turn it around and recrimp I would then not be able to remove the cable assembly at all without cutting off and end again.

Will just have to figure out how to get to adjustment with the seat in place some time down the track.

But i do want to improve the hbrake rear swivel arrangement, perhaps along the lines you guys have discussed.

Cheers

[Rebel1]

Steve, If you do cut the inner cable then take it to a boating shop...specially one that specialises in sailing boat bits.

They have a threaded thingy exactly like the threaded end thats is fitted to the cable. They will also swage it to the cable for you. It's a fitting made by a company called Ronstan and used for sailboat rigging.

It's made of stainless steel and is just the thing for the caliper end. That will then make your cable adjustable at both ends.

Cheers

[Rebel1]

This is the thing.

[stephen low]

Jees and to think of all the years I've been sailing too.

But now that you remind me these threaded ends are now a very popular balistrading fixture, popular with the architect types and the trendy rich foreshore home owners.

Will quiz my yachting chandler mate to see if he has installed the press they need to swage the ends of this fitting. I have my own swaging tool but you need a high powered press for the fitting you have shown.

However an excellent idea all in all.

Thanks

[Rebel1]

Yep...same here with the sailing .

Ole multihull fella here. Thats when I was thin, fit and light.

Now, the keel boat fellas want me as more ballast.

[stephen low]

Les

Am still active in the dinghies current with my eldest boy in a 125.

Have sailed 470, contenders, 14' skiffs, javelin, sharpies etc so seen most of the high performance stuff, all good fun.

Not sure if you have seen pics of the moths running hydrofoils but have had the world champ hydro moth sail under me on my Javelin going flat knacker to windward. They are even quicker than 14's up-wind - now that is speed!!

I'd like to have a go at that - sailing about 1 metre above the water on these stilt foils in a boat with a hull that weighs less than 9kg!!!!!!!!!!

Now if I can only get my cobra down to that weight, what a power to weight ratio I'd have.

Cheers