Victorian G-Force builders / owners

[stephen low]

Guys

Am keen to know the whereabouts of any G-Force kits in Viccy so that I can have a look at build ideas, take pics, talk ideas and so forth.

It is amazing how little you realise you know when you actually go to build something new. For me it is also trying to do it once reasonably right so that I don't waste the limited budget I have!

Please let me know of your existence.

Happy to talk if you call me on 0400 934 027.

Cheers

Slowy

[stephen low]

What nobody out there I don't believe it!

Must be too embarrassed to admit to owning G-Forces then!!

Whose G-Force did I spy yesterday at Enklemans in for engineering. Seems you have some fixing to do.

Anyone at all please.

Cheers

[Rebel1]

Steve, thats the way to do it...go to club meetings.....look at all cars, irrespective of make.

Certainly there are some things particular to the G-force (suspension, steering, pedal box etc.) but the rest is pretty much as you want it and not proprietry to the kit you have.

Also look at the RMC in your area...they are pretty close to the G-force in many ways.

Cheers

[stephen low]

Thanks Les

I look at all and sundry for ideas but I have a particular issue with my handbrake line that I am sure two minutes looking at another GF will fix.

No doubt this is just the first of many similiar minor difficulties I'll have to overcome.

Ciao

[Rebel1]

Whats the issue with the hand brake line?

[stephen low]

Les

went out and took two photos, handbrake #1 and #2, don't yet know how to post directly, as pics worth 2000 words.

Pic 2 shows whole of layout pic 1 the tight bend if I have to feed cable to left of pic. to then be able to mate into both jag handbrake caliper arms LH caliper out of car at present.

My only thought, and yet to try, was to travel directly backwards through rear sheetmetal wall and bend hbrake cable in a tight anticlockwise loop, then feed into calipers.

Cable cover is quite stiff, GForce build manual is in B&W ie useless hence running out of ideas. Handbrake was supplied by GF per last owner's purchase so a GF photo should be able to show what was intended.

Are you able to shed any light?

Cheers

[Andrew429]

Hi Stephen,

I'll see if I can dig up a pic for you.

The cable (shortened XJ6 swb) should exit the cab through the flat sheet metal at the base of the cab directly behind where the handbrake bolts up.
From here it should loop upwards and outwards over the small connecting bar between the two main cross rails, back down and under towards the calipers.
Probably doesn't make much sense without a diagram !
You should also be able to set the point where the cable passes back past itself so that the cable tension keeps it clear of all the suspension / brake gear.

Hope this helps.

Cheers

Andrew

[stephen low]

sort of makes sense Andrew but a pic should clear your description up. I await with interest.

Cheers

[Rebel1]

Okies Steve....not terribly unlike my RMC.

Firstly, the handbrake lever is from a Holden gemini. (wash my mouth with soap)

The cable is from a Jag.

There are a couple of ways that the fellas do this, but in all cases the cable goes straight thru the back sheet metal in your case...f/glass in my case. The outer cable is fitted to the rear bulkhead or to the side of the tunnel.

The cable then goes back and up above the half shafts and loops back down to the caliper.

The variations I've seen have to do with which end of the inner cable goes to where. The inner cable has an adjuster stud one end and a clevis the other.

Some folks fit it like you have. ie. the adjuster stud at the hand brake end but in all cases I've seen this the stud goes thru a 90 degree bracket fitted to the hand brake lever. This bracket pivots in the hand brake lever and has a hole thru which the stud goes. I've scanned a drawing if I can get it on here.

Either the above or you reverse the cable and have the adjuster at the caliper end in which case the hand brake lever bracket is just a flat steel with two holes. One for the clevis and one for the lever pivot.

Did I explain that well enough?

[stephen low]

Les handbrake is as I got it but understand description for use of inner cable attaching either way but again a pic wouldn't hurt.

Will need to experiment with fitment.

If I leave adjuster point in cabin how can this be hidden from view and how difficult is it likely to be to get to it to make the adjustment?

Regards

[Rebel1]

Steve..bracket drawing in my gallery...I hope.

It is difficult to get to and adjust in the cabin...it's down in a tight spot beside the seat...thats why some builders put the adjuster the caliper end....Just gotta crawl under the car to adjust.

The business end of the hand brake lever gets hidden by a vinyl or leather boot...not unlike the gear lever boots you see around.

Hope that helps.

[Stuart]

Hi Steve

I looked through my photos, this the only one I could find, probably not much use. But Rebel seems to have you on the right track.

Thanks
Stuart

[Andrew429]

Hi Stephen,

I can email you higher res. pics if you want.

Cheers

Andrew

[stephen low]

Thanks guys perfect!

Andrew
your pic is how I was imaging Les's (Rebel1) description. Is that frame your car? It looks very much like a Mk1 ie the same as mine.

Stuart
your handbrake looks very similiar to mine, it looks like you have the clevis pin end attached to the handbrake, how did you achieve a swiveling action between hbrake attachment hole and cable clevis yoke?

My hbrake has some sort of pressed copper? tube inserted in a way that it will not come out (rolled outer edges) but it does not rotate. This would not provide a rotating fulcrum action if I attached the threaded adjusting end of the cable to this point.

If I attach the clevis yoke I can align the hbrake hole with the two holes in the yoke and attach with some form of bolt but side room is tight. Is this the best way to go? This then leaves adjustment as Rebel indicated to be made beneath car.

Also is it advisable to put a rubber grommet in the hole in the rear cabin wall through which the hbrake cable will pass to protect the cable outer from wear against the metal sides of the hole it is passing through?

Additionally both cable ends terminate in the same stepped metal sleeve, one end of which fits into the jag hbrake caliper attachment point. Is it advisable to clamp the hbrake end using a type of clamp eg like a clipsal conduit clamp?

I have presumed that this end and part of the handbrake cable passes through the rear steel of the cabin though it looks in your pic Andrew that the hbrake end of the cable does terminate in the rear wall. What is the go here?

Cheers guys

[Aussie Mike]

Welcome to the Forum Andrew!

Cheers

Michael

[Chris D]

Stephen
You're welcome to borrow my RMC build manuals. As old as they are, they are very clear and show photos of tricky aspects such as yours. I also have a few other manuals I've collected, the best of which is from KCC in South Africa.

My mobile is 0417 501237. I live in Beaumaris.

Good luck.
Chris

[Rebel1]

Originally Posted by stephen low

Thanks guys perfect!



Stuart
your handbrake looks very similiar to mine, it looks like you have the clevis pin end attached to the handbrake, how did you achieve a swiveling action between hbrake attachment hole and cable clevis yoke?

Flat steel with two holes...just like the bracket in my gallery but don't bend it. Make it shorter.
My hbrake has some sort of pressed copper? tube inserted in a way that it will not come out (rolled outer edges) but it does not rotate. This would not provide a rotating fulcrum action if I attached the threaded adjusting end of the cable to this point.

I drilled out the original pivot thingy and now use a thru bolt and piece of tube to act as a spacer
If I attach the clevis yoke I can align the hbrake hole with the two holes in the yoke and attach with some form of bolt but side room is tight. Is this the best way to go? This then leaves adjustment as Rebel indicated to be made beneath car.

Space the hand brake lever further from the tunnel. Remember you have to get your hand/fingers around the lever so you need a bit of room.
Also is it advisable to put a rubber grommet in the hole in the rear cabin wall through which the hbrake cable will pass to protect the cable outer from wear against the metal sides of the hole it is passing through?

Yes

Additionally both cable ends terminate in the same stepped metal sleeve, one end of which fits into the jag hbrake caliper attachment point. Is it advisable to clamp the hbrake end using a type of clamp eg like a clipsal conduit clamp?

You will prolly have to shorten the cable....when you do that you can put nuts on the stepped ends
I have presumed that this end and part of the handbrake cable passes through the rear steel of the cabin though it looks in your pic Andrew that the hbrake end of the cable does terminate in the rear wall. What is the go here?

You could terminate at the rear bulkhead nd just let the inner cable continue to the hand brake......or you could fix the outer cable to the side of the tunnel.
Cheers guys

Hope this helps in some way.

Cheers

[Andrew429]

Hi Mike, thanks for the welcome.

Hi Stephen, your analysis of the pic is very good.
The outer sheeth terminates at the rear wall, with as Les described the inner cable continueing on to bolt up to the handbrake. The stepped sleeved on the outer sheeth can act as a locator where it meets the rear wall. In a nutshell it's the exact mirror of what is happening at the caliper end, with the sheeth terminating on the first caliper and cable going through to the second caliper.
The outer sheeth length should be perfect, the inner cable will require shortening from the standard jag length.

THe Mk I and II are near identical for the back half, the differences are in the front half of the tunnel and the engine bay. The Mk II has a space frame around the engine to help it withstand greater torque loading (Not that my tractor donk will ever generate lots ).
I think from memory the Mk I kits use a pressed steel tunnel and has only the main rails sticking beyond the firewall area, please correct me if i'm wrong here.

Cheers

Andrew

[stephen low]

Thanks again guys

Chris

I will call to borrow those manuals Ta

Les

The flat bracket is really then just a linkage mechanism?
Realised that unless I run adjuster end to handbrake, without cutting cable, this is the only way to use the smaller step on the outer cable to hold the outer cable outside the read cabin wall.
What's involved in shortening the cable, if indeed this is what is required? I think however that the inner is the right lentgh now!

Andrew
As you see above terminating outer sheath at wall limits my choice probably away from what I now want to do, adjuster end at caliper, but I think the cables are at the right length now. I may be wrong here how can I tell? This was a GF supplied item and sounds like you got the same parts as I have.

And there is nothing wrong with your memory Andrew, Mk1 does have pressed steel tunnel and rails forward of this!!

Will go and have a plan in the garage.

Cheers

from pall

[LoBelly]

Hey Cris

Can I borrow your manual too?


Maybe Stephen and I can get a copy or two organised
(I'm in McKinnon)

Stephen??

ta
LoBelly
0413 834 901