ADR 37 - Engine options

stephen low · #1 (**permalink**) 03-24-2006, 02:10 PM

Seeking advice as to what engine options are available to me for my build.

Engineer has indicated I can build to the 2004 ADRs, #37 I believe and this eliminates the 302 HO option I was looking at but am unsure from what year other engine options can be chosen.

Was still thinking 302 but what's the earliest model car I can use as a donor source. Going a bit later in years an AU Tickford with 220kW sounds

nice but of course costs go up.

Does anyone have definitive knowledge on the suitable engines for these ADR's?

Looking forward to some good info.

Cheers

boxhead · #2 (**permalink**) 03-24-2006, 02:37 PM

I am not 100% sure but I think if you go with LPG you can use the earlier motor.
When no one is watching then switch out the LPG stuff for petrol?

Probably not the answer you are looking for though.

You can allways come over to the darkside - our legions are growing

Beejay · #3 (**permalink**) 03-24-2006, 02:56 PM

I guess it all depends on how keen you are to use Ford power.

For me it was an easy choice to go for an LS1. Lots of power, easily modified, cheap to purchase and light in weight.

In NSW at least I have been told that LPG is no longer an option.

Good luck!

Ben

LoBelly · #4 (**permalink**) 03-26-2006, 07:19 PM

I was told by my engineer that with a 2004 build date that I have until the end of 2007 to use an engine that was compliant in 2004.

This meant a passenger car engine from Aust. from 1998 on or a passenger car engine from US from 1992 on. (the standards align).

After that the Euro standards hop in and I'll need a modular engine if I want a ford.

I think there are a series of quick changes to Euro 4 (but you still get the 3yr backdate on your build)

Your engineer should be able to provide advice on this matter since s/he'll be certifying it

LoBelly

NASSTY · #5 (**permalink**) 03-27-2006, 12:23 AM

Slowy,

You're correct re 2004. Vicroads gave a concession for builds starting b4 1/1/05 only needing to comply with ADR 37. Clincher is only 3 years to build. (eg if you start the build in 2004, you have until 2007 to finish) Late model ford wuld be your best option. Early Ford V8's will only have 165kw. Probably best to go late model Tickford. I was lucky enough to find a T3 5.6ltr, you might be too.

BMK · #6 (**permalink**) 03-30-2006, 05:07 AM

Mmmmm - in the real world...

stephen low · #7 (**permalink**) 03-30-2006, 02:56 PM

Hmmm

Bernie you B........ don't bait me so!! Nice motor but!

Has anyone any idea how difficult Vic-roads is if one were to be close to finishing late 2007 but genuinely needed some extra time to finish for approval and reg? ie what are past experiences with leniency?

If it all fell over what engines comply to ADR79? ie post 2007 approval.

Cheers

make

BMK · #8 (**permalink**) 03-30-2006, 11:23 PM

Glad you like my new motor...

stephen low · #9 (**permalink**) 03-30-2006, 11:36 PM

Bernie

Literally went to a dismantler contact after work today and if i had pics. could post you my new donk.

Short description will have to suffice instead.

Matched manual/engine combo from a side on wreck, with all bolt on bits including loom, air box, engine mounts, alternator etc. except a/c compressor.

From a 2002 AU II - 220kW Tickford

Might slither a bit - no?

Still thinking about the a/c, is it worth the install?

Will post pics once the engine is home next week.

Cheers

Steve

Bryan Wilson · #10 (**permalink**) 03-31-2006, 12:18 AM

Steve,
Unless you plan on a hard top and use it as a daily driver I would say forget the air con but being a Vic. I highly recommend a heater

Cheers,
Bryan

stephen low · #11 (**permalink**) 03-31-2006, 02:41 AM

Bryan

Heater was always planned though to get to reg quickly car is unlikely to have windscreen ie no heater, wipers etc for speed - if this is allowed of course.

But really in the 1 year hiatus before real drivability I am keen to test run the engine sooner rather than later to at least test for problems. I have a limited warranty on this purchase and the engine wasn't in car to do this test.

Can anyone suggest how I can achieve this testing without major expenditure?

Cheers

LoBelly · #12 (**permalink**) 04-02-2006, 09:14 PM

Hey Stephen

You can do what I did and take it for a drive - then you can find all the things that come loose.

Just strap your engine and transmission onto your frame, hook up some rope to steer and away you go.

Make sure that you have plenty of room to stop if you dont have brakes fitted or wear some thick sole shoes to apply manual pressure to the tyre.

I did this with mine and found lots of things to tighten (although I do confess that I went for a delux version with the steering wheel

video example available here:
http://members.optusnet.com.au/lobelly/

But seriously, put the engine in your chassis and get it going there - a lot of the build centres around the engine and getting things to work with the engine in-situ.

have fun

LoBelly

stephen low · #13 (**permalink**) 04-03-2006, 06:43 AM

Lobelly

Have realised the importance of having the engine/box to fit up and to fit around hence the purchase.

But I would have thought your go-kart must have had some serious wiring to enable the engine to run all the electronics, or did I miss these in the video?

I have presumed that it is best to fit the engine into place then drop the body on, can it be done the other way or just not recommended?

Cheers