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03-29-2006, 08:26 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Sydney,
NSW
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic Revival #3199. 366ci L76, T56 6 speed, Blue circle custom paint, Australias most original cobra 2009-2010
Posts: 2,396
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Not Ranked
Build Sequence
Hey guys. Just wanting some clarification and advice on the "best" way to proceed from where Im nearly at (billycart).
Firstly, exactly when in terms of build progress, (in NSW) do we need to have the first engineers inspection. I dont have my engine\gearbox yet by the way.
Secondly, Im just uncertain what to do in terms of body on\body off, painting etc. At present Im leaning towards leeroys approach, where he had the whole body prepped, the engine bay painted, and then final paint once the cars pretty much finished. That would mean Im starting to work on the body soon, where as Id rather leave it to age\settle\cure more before I really got stuck into it. What about baking the shell? Is this a good idea (as suggested in the comprehensive build manual?) If Im going to do this should I do it before I start any prep? I would prefer to minimise the number of times I pull the body on and off (rework!!).
What about underbody treatment? One thing Id like to "improve" on is under the wheel arches. Has anyone "filled" these in with foam\fibreglass. Is this a stupid idea? just seems that it needs "more" (more...you want more.....)
Anyway...Id like to know what everyone else did?
Cheers
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Proudly registered since 2013.
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03-29-2006, 10:18 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Paradise Point,
Qld
Cobra Make, Engine: Absolute Pace
Posts: 1,205
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Not Ranked
Thank good It wasn't painted!!!
HI Andrew,
As you are aware I have not done any bodywork on my car yet.
I would do it again this way. Unless you have done this before there will be mistakes, the wrong holes drilled here and there, some temper tantrums with tools flying etc etc.
My plan is to have the car well and truly sorted, everthing mounted and checked, have some fun and then get precious and paint the car.
The body is not too hard to take off after the car is fully "Mocked Up" and tested.
But then, Leeroy built a beautifull car and I did not see any extra holes in his.
Phil
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03-29-2006, 10:35 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Sydney,
NSW
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic Revival #3199. 366ci L76, T56 6 speed, Blue circle custom paint, Australias most original cobra 2009-2010
Posts: 2,396
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Not Ranked
Thanks Phil...but I dont make mistakes (please refer to previous posts re wrong control arms and steering rack not working....).
I can certainly see the benefits in doing it your way, and no, I havent built a lot of cars before either (that didnt have rope steering at least)....
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Proudly registered since 2013.
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03-30-2006, 12:44 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Melbourne. Australia,
VIC
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic Revival kit. LS1 motor. T56 Tremec 6 speed. 17" replica Halibrand wheels.
Posts: 559
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Not Ranked
Tenrocca
1/ Ring the engineer to see if he really is interested to see it at any stage, my engineer came out when it was at billy cart stage but really said he only wanted to see it when it was built to a stage I could send it to reg. (NSW may be different?)
2/I am not really to sure which is the best method but I think it has to suit what you are really wanting to get out of building your cobra. I had a chat with Aussie Mike today about some build stuff and I said how I now missed the fact that it was complete and I really only had the enjoyment of driving it. Dont get me wrong I still get a woody everytime I drive it but I really do miss waking up on the weekend with too many jobs to do on the cobra build.
The issue as to how your approach the sequence of things certainly has a lot to do with how much you have to spend on it as you go. Lets face it if you received a box with every part in it you would have the body prep'd in one weekend. And I think if you think of it that way it gives you some idea about painting the body before you have all your bits.
I like Philm's approach on the way he has built his because I am quite sure when he does paint it the body will have certainly stabilised/cured and all the holes etc. will be finalised because he & (Karen) will be happy with the way they have owned & driven it for quite sometime. Phil keeps apologising for the way it looks unpainted but I really think when he does paint it, it will be worth their wait and even more enjoyable for them when they see the result.
I suspect budget is the main influence related to question 2, but dont I was happy with the way my sequence was (as you mention earlier) and I really have not damaged the paint work later due to further parts being fitted or modified.
Sorry long story with small ending
Cheers Leeroy
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03-30-2006, 01:08 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Sydney,
NSW
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic Revival. LS1, T56, Billy Cart
Posts: 231
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Not Ranked
My $0.02 worth
Hi Tenrocca,
My $0.02 worth (probably worth less than that). Pete and I are planning the same build as PhilM. Firstly our shell has been sitting on a concrete slab and is currently playing host to a large family of redbacks. So it should be cured by the time we put it on the chassis (plan is in around 6 months). Secondly I am sure that we will make some mistakes that will need to be filled/fibreglassed/foamed. We also plan to prep the body ourselves prior to painting. We are planning to paint the engine bay and basically prepare it for final painting and body fitting (view is to not take it off again), but I do want it rego'ed prior to final paint.
I have seen Leeroy's standard of work, and he is a mighty fine tradesman, as the detail and workmanship is magnificent. Which made me think I would do it Leeroy's way, but alas I am not that talented.
Lastly budget is a major consideration. I am really happy to drive around in a unpainted rocket that is registered and have it look the goods later. Using LS1 engines we now have until Dec 2008 for Rego. It sounds like a long time, but it may come quicker that one thinks.
I do agree with Leeroy about ringing the engineer. Mine has indicated that he wants to see it with engine/gearbox/suspension/brakes/steering all completed so he can check to quality of work. Which I think is quite feasible and realistic.
Churchy
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03-30-2006, 01:58 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Sydney,
NSW
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic Revival #3199. 366ci L76, T56 6 speed, Blue circle custom paint, Australias most original cobra 2009-2010
Posts: 2,396
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Not Ranked
Thanks Mark. Do you think he need to see it without the body with all that stuff. Cos that will certainly help make my mind up. (I am going to use the same engineer as you).
Anyone have any opinions on the benefits (or not) of doing an extra layer of foam\fibreglass under the gaurds. To me it just doesnt look right, looking up under the wheels and seeing the underside of the outside panel (Man that sounds confusing)!!!
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Proudly registered since 2013.
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03-30-2006, 03:21 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Melbourne. Australia,
VIC
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic Revival kit. LS1 motor. T56 Tremec 6 speed. 17" replica Halibrand wheels.
Posts: 559
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Not Ranked
Churchy
dont sell yourself short, you will find you suprise yourself and you must take the attitude to give it a go (it will only cost u $ to fix it) I'm not a good tradesman just silly enough to think I can do it
Tenrocca
I understand what u mean about under the guards. felt Mike's the other day guards that is and his is the earlier CR which has a nice return lip on them but mine dont and have required a bit of work to make them ok. I sprayed the underside of body in a black painit which was average. There is a WURTH underbody black which is use on the european cars and its worth it. You can attach the bottle to a spray unit (ask the supplier) and it can be spray painted on at a low pressure and has that thick mottled look, best thing it reduces those undrbody noises created by stones & sh&#%it you hear all time while driving. This stuff means u dont have to have a good finish on the underside also for it to look & feel nice.
Footy's on . Go Saints
Leeroy.
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03-30-2006, 03:43 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Sunbury,
VIC
Cobra Make, Engine: Rat Rod Racer, LS1 & T56
Posts: 5,391
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Not Ranked
Leeroy is dead right. Get in there and have a go. I've not qualifications in any aspect of building my Cobra. I've picked up everything as I've gone along. The build so far has been a huge learning experience for me. I get a lot of satisfaction out of trying something I haven't done before and succeding. When you fail or it doesn't work get some help and try again.
Sub conciously I reckon part of me doesn't want to finish the build 'cause I'm enjoying it so much.
Just on the underbody.. I found a product that I reckon will be just the ticket for lining the wheel arches. Clark rubber have some 2mm thick nitrile rubber sheet that's self adhesive. It's flexible and very sticky. It would mold well to the inside of the wheel arches and give good protection from star cracks caused by stones flicking up from the tyres. I used it to line the inside of my battery box to give some cusioning for the battery and to insulate the aluminium surface. It was about $25 per meter and I reckon about 3 or 4 meters would do all 4 wheel arches.
Cheers
__________________
Mike Murphy
Melbourne Australia
Last edited by Aussie Mike; 03-30-2006 at 03:46 AM..
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03-30-2006, 02:49 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Sydney,
NSW
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic Revival. LS1, T56, Billy Cart
Posts: 231
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Not Ranked
Having a Go
Tenrocca,
I agree with all above and especially Aussie Mike. I am sure that I am going to make mistakes (and have done so already), and about the only things we are planning on outsourcing is the final paint job and the upholstery (another black art). Leeroy, I looked at the job you did on the turning of your hand brake lever, It's is just beautiful and when the time comes, I may throw some aluminium your way so you can work some of your magic. This was not the only thing that I was impressed with on your car. Just one of the many fine aspects.
The learning curve so far is steeper than the dipper at Bathurst and I am positive that I am going to be on this forum asking a heap of questions about stuff that I don't even know I don't know about yet.
As an ex sparky, I am happy to tackle most jobs and having a partner in crime with this build has been great. Pete has more automotive skills that I do and I have metal fabrication skills, so that combo so far has been great. Problem is we both enjoy raiding the magic fridge way too often (hic).
So, I suppose my $0.02 worth is that I am so enjoying the build and the community that comes with building these fantastic toys, that like Mike I want to enjoy every aspect, and that includes the mistakes. Of which I have had none so far.
Unless you take into account the hand brake lever, and the steering column, and the wrong series control arms, and the, and the, and the.
Cheers
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03-30-2006, 03:05 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Sydney,
NSW
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic Revival #3199. 366ci L76, T56 6 speed, Blue circle custom paint, Australias most original cobra 2009-2010
Posts: 2,396
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Not Ranked
Hey Leigh, is that a new radiator? Looks kewl. Great new photo (can you post or email me a higher res please ). Also have you dropped the drivers seat a bit more (or is that an optical illusion - a trick of the morning light) :-) I got to admit, your looks a like like how I want mine to look - just reverse the stripe/body colour (well thats my thinking this week at least, ask me again next week though )
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Proudly registered since 2013.
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03-31-2006, 05:13 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Alice Springs, central Australia,
NT
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic revival kit (CR3181), gen III engine, T56 6 speed box, AU XR8 lsd diff
Posts: 5,699
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Not Ranked
I may be jumping into this thread alittle late but I plan on having mine assembled and registered - drive for 6 monthes or so (shake down) then dismantle for paint.
The compant I work for has just given the green light topurchase a spray booth and become the Alice Springs agent for a product called "Rhino liner" it is a spray on plastic that is used to line well body utes.
I will do my inner guards with this stuff as it is very resistant to chipping and damage, with some flex to absorb stone contact.
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Cruising in 5th
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Never be afraid to do something new, Remember, Amateurs built the Ark: Professionals built the Titanic.
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04-01-2006, 04:24 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Perth, AUSTRALIA,
W.A
Cobra Make, Engine: Lucus shell, Arrow chassis, efi 5L HO, 5 spd supra, Diff 3.73:1, Rear tyres 275x60-15
Posts: 229
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Not Ranked
Box head... good thinking mate, that rubbery rhino stuff would be perfect. Its can be sprayed on nice and thick too.
Simmo
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Black Rubber Needs To Be Layed
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04-01-2006, 04:28 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Melbourne. Australia,
VIC
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic Revival kit. LS1 motor. T56 Tremec 6 speed. 17" replica Halibrand wheels.
Posts: 559
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Not Ranked
I think that is great stuff also. Do you paint it on first then paint black on or reverse of that.
Its something that will really be worthwhile as it will reduce the road noise greatly and I wish I put mine on thicker, the stones hitting the underguards is always a worrying sounds cause all you think about is the paint work.
After driving to Winton & around the track I already have lots of chips in paint especially the rear guards behind the sidepipes, need some of those clear stickon protectors. Where do you get those??
Off to the GP now
Leeroy
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04-02-2006, 12:14 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Alice Springs, central Australia,
NT
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic revival kit (CR3181), gen III engine, T56 6 speed box, AU XR8 lsd diff
Posts: 5,699
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Not Ranked
It is colored black so from what I know you simply spray it on and your good to go.
As we get up and running with it I will pass on more info.
__________________
Cruising in 5th
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Never be afraid to do something new, Remember, Amateurs built the Ark: Professionals built the Titanic.
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04-02-2006, 03:30 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Bonbeach,
vic
Cobra Make, Engine: rcm 5ltr windsor paxton supercharged
Posts: 130
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Not Ranked
Clear protector
Leeroy, this is the company that does Invisable "car bras" stick on clear 3m he will come to you and fit the clear on site (0419435427) I've seen the finished product it looks very good
Regards
Barry Nelson.
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bazz
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04-02-2006, 08:09 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Cobra Make, Engine: 347 Stroker Morrison Injection. Registered.
Posts: 1,440
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Not Ranked
I think the body only needs curing in a spraybooth if you intend painting within the first 6-12 months. I deceided to bolt up nearly everything I could to the body and chassis including the heater, fans, wipers, windscreen, motor, gearbox, sidepipes etc. Then I stripped everything back to the shell, removed it from the chassis and had the whole body prepared for painting which included the filling of all gaps where the inner panels meet the body. The wheel arches and underside were given about 10 coats of body shultz and the engine bay was painted an aluminium colour. Theres a picture of the underside prepared but not painted in my gallery. Once the car is registered in 10-14 months Ill get the body painted.
I tend to agree with Leeroy that the building has been great fun and Im not really looking forward to finishing the car.
Regards.
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Mando
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04-02-2006, 09:23 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Sydney,
NSW
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic Revival. 6 litre Chev
Posts: 669
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Not Ranked
Andrew,
Having had mine fully painted at engineering/rego I wouldnt go that way again unless you are 100% sure of what you want. Only problem with not finishing it by rego is that you probably never will as you will be having toooo much fun and wont want to take if off the road for a full strip down for painting.
If you intend doing track days you will get stone chips and for me track days are the only way to travel. My Cobra is a much more fun on the track than battling Sydney traffic/radars/dixxxheads .
Phil
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