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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 04-15-2006, 10:45 PM
stephen low's Avatar
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Cobra Make, Engine: G-Force Mk I, 5L Windsor, TKO 600, enhanced Jag / Koni suspension & LSD Diff.
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Default Engine / gearbox fit

Guys have just tried first fit of engine and box into chassis - OH dear.

Std mounts twist engine to RHS but in normal location the gearbox shifter is too far back, this also puts box mount well behind the chassis mount point and exit spline barely clears a rear chassis frame member.

Additionally find lower RHS serpentine pulley fouls steering rack chassis attachment point and blocks connection of the steering uni shaft from rack to column.

If I move whole shebang 100mm forward the only issue not overcome is serpentine pulley frame clearance but I think solving 5 out of 6 issues in one hit isn't too bad by this exercise.

I seek feedback though on this idea for the issues of having the engine mounts located 100mm further back on the block via modified supports and what this might do to car balance by moving this weigh forward by 100mm.

What advice can anyone give?

I have previously visited Martin Govett of Kenmer and as he is very close to me I think a visit to him for engineering may be the easiest solution.

I will post a few new pics to my gallery shortly.

Thoughts please all.

Cheers

Steve
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Old 04-16-2006, 06:12 AM
Bryan Wilson's Avatar
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Steve,
My engine is mounted a few inches forward of usual and I don't think it makes any noticeable difference.
The car handles quite well and any extra weight over the front wheels is negligible. Also the foot boxes can be made a little wider with plenty of leg room.

Cheers,
Bryan
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Old 04-17-2006, 03:25 AM
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Hi Stphen

When I purchased my engine it came without any pulleys and I found the standard pulley setup as you have, did not fit. I chose to go with a pulley setup from March Performance (photos in my gallery, purchased from Summit Racing), this gave it more of a cleaner look and everything fitted pefectly.
Your gear box does appear to be set further back than my own, I do remember having to modify the rear gearbox mount further back, but luck was on my side as the gear shift alligned perfectly with existing hole cut in the tunnel.

But I did not have to change the postion of the front engine mounts.
I apologize I cannot give you any measurements as my car is at a workshop getting ready for rego.

Thanks
Stuart
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Old 04-18-2006, 04:16 AM
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Default Pulley fouling

Why not cut off the lower idler, it will run fine without it!
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Old 04-18-2006, 05:26 AM
stephen low's Avatar
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Ross

I have already had the same idea, though it seems a waste of a perfectly good billet frame. However if i am right your pic shows a power steering pump at upper LHS. I am not running PS!

I need to only run a belt around crank, water pump, alternator and an adjuster.

I would bet my last dollar that there must somewhere be someone's manufactured frame to do what I am talking about and that is retain alternator and same direction water pump rotation.

Can anyone chime in with a source?

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Old 04-20-2006, 12:25 AM
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Hi Stephen,

That's not a power steering pump, it's just an idler that I made up to keep the serpentine belt wrapped around the water pump pulley. If you don't have something in that location how will the belt wrap around the water pump pulley? The problem really comes from the fact that the water pump on your engine runs in the reverse direction to the old 302's and you can't simply fit a Gilmer drive.

Cheers

Ross
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Old 04-20-2006, 01:30 AM
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Name:  small belt.JPG
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Size:  21.4 KBHi Slowy
This is what I done. Retains reverse water pump and gets rid of idler pulleys. Bracket and adjuster from the states,belt from repco. I don't no how to enlarge photo maybe someone on here can.
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Old 04-21-2006, 04:19 PM
stephen low's Avatar
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Default

Thanks for that guys.

Am actually going to fabricate plate aluminium frames on the advice of a car nut here at work who is also a very good fitter he he and has helped one of the club guys Steve ? build his cobra, so no end of good advice from this source!!

Will retain alternator on drivers side and will use tensioner on lhs but lower down to give me room for induction pipe work.

Best advice though was from Martin Govitt to use XY engine mounts these dropped engine over std AU mounts plus found RHS mount had been bent to billy -oh from donor car impact.

So engine now remains where it is , g/box just fits and lever will be moved forward artificially.

Will press on.

Cheers

Steve
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