Coating Inner Guards???

[schipps]

Just wondering what you guys have used and can recommend for use in coating the inner guards.
Did anyone use a product like a "sound deadener" that protected the fibreglass as well?

For you Darksiders, I am tracking the L76 up the coast as we speak. ETA is Monday!!!


Mick

[sambo]

Give Warwick Harrison a call, he offers an option to fit some kind of wet suit (neoprene?) material up inside the guards. The idea is to prevent stones punching through the inner guards and dinting the paint work from beneath. Plus it probably offers decent sound deadening at the same time.

I did a quick google and it seems to come in a few colours and thicknesses...

http://www.paskal.com.au/products.as...&cat1=Neoprene

[schipps]

Thanks Sambo. Will check with Warwick

[WKB]

I glued some 6mm high density foam rubber up inside the guards, then sprayed inside the guards with stoneguard(water based) and finished off with a couple coats of 2 pack black.

Warren

[Bob In Ct]

Warren:
What did you glue it with?

Bob

[RedBarchetta]

I used some 4mm (approximate) foam rubber, glued in with 3M high strength spray glue (actually contact cement in a spray can). Then I coated that with black rubberized truck bed liner (again, out of a spray can). Two coats of that stuff and I don't hear any pebbles on the underside. I did this to add protection from the sticky MTs. Just take your time and mask off everything. You also have to be steady with a razor blade and cut out each piece...sort of like putting together a jig saw puzzle while lying on your back.

-Dean

[Bob In Ct]

You spray and coat the neoprene, the underside of the fender, or both?

Bob

[jaxssnake]

There is a product called lizzard skin that I used on my car. It is a ceramic based paint which a lot of street rodders are using on their builds. It can be sprayed or brushed and dries to a flat black color.It is used for sound and heat control but works well for stone protection. I put three coats on the underside of the body as well as the trunk and footboxes and wheelwells.It works so good most of the time I drive without shoes. Interior stays cool.Look on this site www.lizardskin.com

[byron w]

jaxssnake: Did you spray or brush it on? I almost refuse to pay $140.00 just for the gun to spray it on. Thinking about brush or a cheap undercoat gun of some type.
Thanks,
Byron

[TWOOD]

I bought a cheap $20 undercoating gun. had to thin the material, very slightly, with water. I sprayed wherever I wanted the finish to appear "pretty" and without any brush marks, like on the firewall and the engine compartment interior. I brushed it on the under body and places out of sight like the interior of the foot boxes. The 2 gallon can is enough to do the whole car. Several coats in the critical hot spot areas (firewall, underside of transmission tunnel, footboxes). I couldn't see buying their $140 gun either.

[WKB]

Bob,
I used a polyuretane adhesive/sealant. Messy to use, but works well.
I sprayed both the foam rubber and under the guard.

Byron W,
I tried brushing and ended up buying a spray gun. As you would expect the finish was worth paying the money for. The equipment used fpr spraying sound deader was not that expensive. I only paid about $50 for mine and I have seen them on EBAY cheaper than that.

[RedBarchetta]

Originally Posted by Bob In Ct

You spray and coat the neoprene, the underside of the fender, or both?

Bob

Bob, not sure if your question was directed to me or someone else. I glued the bare neoprene/foam rubber to the inner panels, then coated with BlueMagic Pure Rubber Undercoat (about $10/can at Pep Boys). This stuff will not crack and contains no asphalt. It comes out of the built-in spray nozzle pretty quick, so you have to work your wrists fast to lay down a smooth, dripless coat. I applied up to about 1/4" from the edge of the fender, ensuring that I covered all of the seams and edges. Looks pro.

-Dean

[jaxssnake]

Byron,
I brushed it on.The first coat kind of pushed around a little but after that they cover great. Cleanup was easy just soap and water. After it cured I finished the inner fenderwells with body schultz(undercoat)
Regards Jack

[byron w]

Thanks jaxssnake, TWOOD and WKB for the replys. I thought some lesser expensive guns would spray the stuff, just wasn't sure what to buy.

Thanks again, Byron W.

[400TT]

Mick, just make sure you coat under the guards with some sort of body deadener, thick enough to block all light. Fibreglass is transparent and if you don't coat the underside of the guards, it will wash out your paint colour.

Using high-density foam/neopreme is a good idea to stop rocks etc hitting underneath and cracking the fibreglass and/or paint. Seen this on a few cars now, both front and rear guards. Not that common and I have never fitted the material myself, although these days I would.

After paint, just attach foam/neopreme. It only needs to be attached to the top surfaces(horizontal surfaces). Superformance use what looks like 4-6mm high-density foam just on the top surfaces, it's attached on top of the deadener. Neopreme is probably a better idea though, which is why Harrison themselves use it.

I wouldn't paint over the foam/neopreme. You want to make it easy to remove for body repairs if necessary.

Foam/neopreme also reduces noise from guard areas as it stops the echo of sand/small rocks(and some big rocks) being thrown up against the guards by the tyres. The stickier the tyres you use, the more this occurs.

[Sloth]

i used a product from Wurth. Expensive as for a spray can full but only used two cans for the four arches. When i start to drive it i will let ya'll know how it goes...

[hodson]

Guys, I have just seen this thread. There are many types of neoprene rubber, primarily used in the manufacture of wet suits (one of my businesses is diving both recreational and commercial). The material comes from two main manufacturing areas, Taiwan and Japan. The Taiwanese material is used in the very cheap wet suits as it is quite inferior to the Japanese product. there are also different strength of material as well. Soft easy to get on and easy to tear. Tuftex, a bit stiffer but nearly impossible to tear. I have just spoken to one of our wet suit suppliers and he would be more than happy to discuss and / or supply wet suit material to anyone that contacts him. He is better able to give you the various strengths etc, will cut to whatever size you require and is a bit of a Cobra enthusiest (although he doesn't own one). The material comes in 2mm, 3mm, 5mm, 7mm, 9mm and I think 11mm.
Ask for Brian at Seatec Ph No. 0296742025

Colin Hodson

[sambo]

Awesome info, thanks Colin.