Suitable laquer for timber dash

[stephen low]

Just found a tin of old but good quality UV resistant single pot polyurethane varnsh / laquer in my cupboard.

Can anyone indicate whether there is a down side to single pot over two pot laquers? And is a polyurethane appropriate for this use?

I know I need UV resistance, but found this tin well sealed shut hence contents seem ok and not sure if the laquer will stand up to the job.

Can spray this material on and was planning that as the form of application.

Any advice would be good.

Cheers

[Danr55]

Man of War spar Varnish will probably be your best bet. I had apatong cap rails on my last boat and Man of War was practically indestructable.

[LoBelly]

Hey Stephen

You must be close if your attention is being diverted by things like 'what finish should I have...'

Any advice would be good.

My advice - slop on the polyurethane - brush will be fine (it seems to even itself out) - then get back to things you HAVE to do.

I think you're on track to have the last ever Windsor registered.

LoBelly

[imagine2frolic]

I would apply some West System to the raw wood first. Then put a UV protectant varnish on top of it. The system is a resin, and hardner, #7. I used it for my hatches, and interior panels. I have a pic posted in my gallery with my wife & brother make cocout rums.

[pmfranke]

spray on laquer is not the best for exterior applications. spar varnish is hard to apply and takes a long time to dry( crap gets in the finish)but is very durable.two part epoxy resin from west marine is the best option. my 2 cents from 20 years of house painting.

[stephen low]

Thanks for the comments guys.

Am conversant with epoxies as I've build a few yachts so the idea of a hard finish topped with a laquer is appealling.

It also allows me to move forward quicker, as Michael, I need to seal my wooden dash before can even I venture out into any inclement weather. So it is an important part.

I'm using walnut veneer atop a timber backing so I really just want the finish timber look in place and sealed off to prevent, mainly water sourced, damage.

Would using a good quality brush with the epoxy get a reasonable finish? Of course I could later sand the epoxy prior to spraying laquer to get a flat finish.

How do polyurethanes hang onto epoxies? I'd hate to have the urethane peel off later.

Cheers

[400TT]

We just got our painter to cover ours with automotive 2 pack clear.

We enlisted the advice of a specialist with timber as we had a mahogony steering wheel and wanted to match the dash, gear knob, handbrake handle, indicator knob etc to the steering wheel. He advised to stain the the items a few shades lighter as it darkens with age and the wheel would already have been 6 - 12 months old. He was right, within 6 months, the dash etc looked identical to the steering wheel and have stayed that way. This specialist also recommended automotive clear for it's durability to UV etc.

Dash has been on the Cobra for 9 years now, still looks great. We just polish and wax it when we did the body.

We actually used solid mahogony for dash etc as we routed recesses for gauges and grooves for effect etc.

[pmfranke]

don't put anything over the epoxy finish . if you want a matte finish sand with very fine sand paper and then wax . try it first on a sample piece of like material.

[MaSnaka]

very fine sandpaper as in 400-600 grit! fine steel wool and lemon oil works to get a matt finish too.

[stephen low]

Sorry, should clarify in that I want a glossy look not a matt finish.

I meant that sanding of the epoxy coating would achieve a flat and keyed surface upon which to apply further coatings for a gloss outcome. Whether it just be further epoxy of a urethane overcoat.

I'd agree with not varnishing over another coating type but where the clear is a polyurethane is this such an issue?

I'm not sure whether the epoxy I have has much of a UV rating, as I'm guessing this rating can vary, is this so? And hence applying an epoxy only finish might be little better than applying a poor grade varnish.

At least I know the urethane clear I have is UV resistant, so I am still in a quandry as to what to use!

Auto clear obviously does work as I haven't seen too many sun damaged paint jobs, and I guess I could leave the dash somewhere that does clear coats and just wait for them to have a job in where they could also do the dash at the same time.

However I wouldn't mind keeping the coating application in my control if possible. Both time and cost constraints are then on me!

Further comment invited!

[imagine2frolic]

Even the West System has no UV rating. It is a great sealer, and makes the wood tougher. A light sanding with a UV varnish will make it sparkle. My panels for my windows are like mirrors.

[Aussie Mike]

You're into Boats Slowy. I would have thought one of the marine paint suppliers would have a suitable coating for timber. There's plenty of timber boats out there with clear finishes on decks etc. Surely they must have some coating system that will cope with the worst the elements can throw at it.

Cheers

[stephen low]

Mike

I haven't played with timber boats for so long I've forgotten more than I knew in this area!

I know coating technologies have come a long way but it's knowing what to use is the trick. The comment about epoxies being not too UV resistent is correct and overcoating with UV material will work but why bother.

So I am going to give my polyurethane a go and see what happens. Just need a nice 20C calm day to allow the urethane to flowcoat better but this will only need to be the final coat so here's hoping.

Cheers