Importing Kits

[LoBelly]

My engineer also went into that - apparently the way HE tested the chassis rigidity was to put the completed vehicle on four points at each corner of the chassis (again wheel off the ground) and then remove one point to measure the drop.

he didn't go too much into what else was involved - like if he did that all for corners in turn. I imagine there is some big book of tables that engineers can look at that would give the acceptable levels or how that translates to Newton Metres or what the password to the 7th level is.


LoBelly


*may not involve actual measurement

[400TT]

I think our tests here in QLD are one of the strictest as far as beaming and torsional. They measure the deflection of the chassis with engine block attached. We also have fibreglass impact test as well, which sounds relatively easy. Our tests are good enough here, that the results are more than enough to register the vehicle in all states I believe.

I've seen a couple of torsional result sheets, all were very similiar and all looked like they just met the minimum requirements. Rumour is that neither of the chassis units passed first go.

When it comes to importing, building and registering a US Cobra, it's not just the one thing, it's the whole process that is required. I've heard just getting a chassis into the country that will be registered is also a drama. Much easier to bring in a chassis for race use only. A club member up here has just brought in a Lolo chassis for race use.

Anyway, I really have no idea, I can just see some of the pitfalls. Would be really interesting to hear from someone that has done it.

I would also be interested to see how many kits offset the drivetrain and tunnel to US passenger side. Maybe some of the US guys would know which kits do that and if it's really a problem.

Another factor to keep in mind is resale. I wouldn't pay as much 2nd hand for a completed & registered Factory Five here, as I would for most other Oz Cobras. But there are some US kits/relicas that I would pay much more for if they were registered and approved here.

[Rebel1]

Many years ago I had an in-depth discussion with a Jaime Garde who was the chassis tester for RMC, when Mike Moyland owned the Company.

It seems in those days not only did RMC build cobra kits but were also the state approved chassis test facility. Their job included testing stretched limo and all manner of chassis that were modified/built to go on WA roads.

A beaming test went like this:

A rolling chassis/car was built complete with motor, transmission and all suspension adjusted to ride hight. Door intrusion beams, hinges and latches were also to be fitted

All wheels were then removed.

The coil over/shock/spring components were removed and solid struts installed reflecting the correct ride height.

Hub plates were then bolted to the wheel hubs and fixed to the test platform.

To test each corner, the hub plate was detached from the platform and a measurable hydraulic force applied perpendicular to the hub flange. A dial indicator measured the deflection.

He claimed the MK1 RMC chassis failed miserably and hence the redesign to the Mk2 double rail.

That redesign was at the request of a Rick Percival and Connor Craig who were then attempting to market the RMC in Queensland. The Qld Dept. of Transport wanted proof of beam testing.

That's the way I remember it but it was a longgggg time ago.

[*Cobber*]

What a mine field, just goes to show the level of interpretation of the registration rules from state to state let alone engineer to engineer.

With interpretation like this it is almost down to suburb by suburb what will go through and what won't.

DUMB.

[Plums]

You'll be right though Cobber...... with your contacts you'll get through no worries!!!

[Cameron Parsons]

Not quite a hi-jack, but more of a slide.

So, given the choice and making the huge assumption that you could extract torsion and beaming data, and other crucial stats from the US manufacturer that an Australia authority would approve... (Yes, they are big assumptions).

What would be the most desirable kit/roller import?

Personally, I would be tied for Kirkham or Shelby (in Al of course!)

Cameron

[Rebel1]

I agree Cameron.

Kirkham of course.

The main problem with purchasing a Shelby is that we (in Australia) can't register with the type of engines that reflect the original Cobra so having the famed Shelby name would be less of an issue..

If we were able to register carby 302/351 Windsors or a 427/428 then Shelby would be a choice owing to heritage.

Just my two bob's worth.

[Cameron Parsons]

Your two bob is worth 20 cents to me Les

Cameron

[Rebel1]

Bugga!!.....I would have thought at least 1.23497 CNY

Cheers buddy, hope you are going well.

[PCC]

I've just been informed I haven't posted for several weeks so here goes:

My personal thinking is why would you want to import a kit from overseas to build when the options here are plentyful. And certainly with the quality of the some of the kits here they are well worth it (that's what I think anyway).

Bringing a "used" car in, such as the Daytona still seems tempting, but as the Aussie Suppliers move into this area I feel that I would far prefer to buy "locally" if only from a comfort point of view (a face to talk to and all that).

[NASSTY]

From memory, I have a copy of the torsion and beam test at home somewhere, the engineer I'm using clamped down a bare chassis to a jig. Then bars were placed perpendicular to the chassis, weight was applied to the corners and the deflection measured. As he has already done this to a RCM chassis there is no need to test mine again. I thought, from memory again, that the test he was using was an ADR approved test.

[Strw]

Originally Posted by PCC

My personal thinking is why would you want to import a kit from overseas to build when the options here are plentyful. And certainly with the quality of the some of the kits here they are well worth it (that's what I think anyway).

I was only considering getting one from overseas because of price. I cant really afford (wife wont let me get a loan) to spend $50,00.00 on building an Aussie cobra kit but the FFR cobra comes almost complete for $20,000.00 plus import costs.

Scott

[Rebel1]

Sorry Strw, although the FFR kit is $US20.000, by the time you import it...pay duties, freight and GST you're gonna be up to about $30,000.

Then your going to need wheels, tyres and paint ......guess at another $7500 absolute minimum if you paint it yourself.

Then your gonna need an engine and gear box......new....another $10.000, second hand.....maybe $5000.

And you have yet to incur any test for Oz. conformity and all the incidentals that some how just happen.

So you are going to expend about $50,000 anyways. Not worth it with the gamble of being unable to register it.

Buy a second hand aussie kit would be a better choice.

Cheers

[400TT]

edit: oops, Rebel1 beat me to it.

US$20k for kit

Plus delivery and import fees.

then you need:
engine/gearbox
wheels/tyres
paint
maybe torsional tests & any mods
definitely convert right hand drive costs
extra parts for compliance - seats with headrests, new speedo, padded dash moulding for body edge, little labels(seat belts, tyre placard etc), side indicators, high-level brake light, reflectors, timed seat belt warning light, compliant steering wheel, compliant seatbelts, compliant steering lock, squirters, demister system, unleaded filler and all the other stuff that needs to be added/changed for ADR compliance.
wheel alignment
engineer fees
rego fees


I would like to be optimistic, but I can't see how it can be built for less than $40k with paint. Actually you would be doing well for $45k.

Maybe it could be done for less, but I would be generous with your budget, as building these cars is a big project and there are lots of places for hidden costs.

You could save money by using a soarer/crown/celsior front cut for Lexus V8 & auto(but would need to make/modify all the mounts) or find a EFI 302w & T5 package that would bolt in.

Just make sure you are fully informed before you start.

[Strw]

Thanks again for all the replys.

400TT and Rebel, after all those extra costs you are right it wouldnt be cost effective.

I will just have to save up and get an Aussie kit when I can afford it.

Scott

[Rob. Smith]

What about Superformance ?
Smithy

[400TT]

You know you can get Cobras on the road cheaply if you have the time, skills and dedication. Our last Harrison Cobra cost just over $30k registered.

Get the body gelcoated in the colour you like. I reckon black works best. Just clean it up, polish it, throw some rondells etc on it and it will look fine. Plus you are giving the body time to settle, fibreglass takes a long time to settle.

Hit every swap meet you can for parts, you will save a lot of money by doing this. But you need to know what you are looking for and what new prices are.

Use donor cars, either front cuts or full wrecks. We used Toyota crown and were able to get a lot of parts from it, plus lots of parts to sell, some for fairly good money e.g. power steering pump, air con compressor etc.

Initially fit a cheap set of alloy wheels & tyres.

Ask around and keep an eye out for 2nd hand parts from other Cobra owners.

An alumium plated interior can look quite sexy as it gives the Cobra that race look and is cheap to do.

Get the Cobra on the road as cheap as you can. $30k area is stil doable. Once it's on the road you can tidy it up, add some nice accessories etc.

Where there is a will, there is a way. Something to think about.

[400TT]

Smithy, SuperFormance are a premium Cobra. We are looking at the budget models.

Scott, you know you can get Cobras on the road cheaply if you have the time, skills and dedication. Our last Harrison Cobra cost just over $30k registered.

Either buy body/chassis new and get the body gelcoated in the colour you like. I reckon black works best. Just clean it up, polish it, throw some rondells etc on it and it will look fine. Plus you are giving the body time to settle, fibreglass takes a long time to settle.

Or buy a part completed project. These do have their perils, but you can save a lot of money going this way. If you find a part completed kit, it would pay to run the details past some fellow club members to see what they think.

Hit every swap meet you can for parts, you will save a lot of money by doing this. But you need to know what you are looking for and what new prices are.

Use donor cars, either front cuts or full wrecks. We used Toyota crown and were able to get a lot of parts from it, plus lots of parts to sell, some for fairly good money e.g. power steering pump, air con compressor etc.

Initially fit a cheap set of alloy wheels & tyres.

Ask around and keep an eye out for 2nd hand parts from other Cobra owners.

An alumium plated interior can look quite sexy and is cheap to do.

Get the Cobra on the road as cheap as you can. $30k area is stil doable. Once it's on the road you can tidy it up, add some nice accessories etc.

Where there is a will, there is a way. Something to think about. So don't give up yet.