Alternator mounting problems

HISSIN · #1 (**permalink**) 10-06-2007, 01:33 AM

Having a problem mounting the alternator, hits the chassis in its original position tried mounting up high hits bonnet . Thinking of mounting in front of motor, has anybody tried this its an LS1 into RCM Any help or suggestions would be a great help. HISSIN

Rebel1 · #2 (**permalink**) 10-06-2007, 01:51 AM

How close is it to the chassis rail in it's original position?

By that I mean by how much does it interfere?.

cheers

Gav · #3 (**permalink**) 10-06-2007, 02:05 AM

Are you running power steering?
If not mount it just a bit higher using the upper mount for the bottom and fabricate a new upper one from the front of the head.
There should be a pic of how I did mine in my gallery.

Gav

HISSIN · #4 (**permalink**) 10-06-2007, 05:22 AM

alternator needs to be raised by about 100mm but then hits block if i lift towards head alternator to deep belts dont line up . Trying to find smaller alternator , not running power steering there is a water pump which has alternator mounted inside looks like old radial engine trying to find .Was in an episode of american hot rod HISSIN

Rebel1 · #5 (**permalink**) 10-06-2007, 05:45 AM

HISSEN...100mm seems like an awful lot.

Have a look in aussie mikes gallery he moved his alternator back and sideways.

I am in the process of fitting the L76 to my RMC. The RMC chassis rails are close together so the engine had to go above the chassis rails. My alternator also fouled the rails where they step up above the steering rack/front suspension.

I suspect the RMC is also a tighter fit than the RCM as the chassis is a twin rail design which limits the width available to fit an engine.

To make mine clear I moved the alternator rearwards by about 25mm.

Essentially the alternator is bolted directly to the block using the original alternator bolt holes.

I would suggest you try disposing of the alternator bracket and bolt the alternator directly to the block. If you find this is close then maybe some spacers under the engine mounts donuts to raise the engine a touch.

If you find this provides the clearance then give me a yell and I'll tell you how to modify the alternator bracket and still retain the idler pulley in it's correct location.

However, you will then need to have a new alternator pulley turned up.

Cheers

Aussie Mike · #6 (**permalink**) 10-06-2007, 05:49 PM

The factory alternator is huge bothin physical size and capacity. I think it's about 120Amps which is great if you have a huge sound system, electric windows, sunroof, kighting everywhere and all the accessories and junk a regular car has or could hope to have.

I picked up a small alternator from a Japanese import wrecker for about $55. It still delivers 80Amps but is tiny compared to the original unit. 80Amps is overkill for a Cobra with is refreshing lack of electrical creature comforts. Especially when you think that not long ago most cars only had 55Amp alternators.

The bracketry wasn't hard to fabricate and I also added my own tensioner setup. If you used the factory tensioner the bracket would be even easier.

The only tricky part was the pulley which I turned on the lathe.

Cheers

HISSIN · #7 (**permalink**) 10-07-2007, 04:15 AM

Aussie Mike thanks for the info and photo. My main problem is that i had to bring the motor,forward to the max so i could fit tailshaft in. The chassis rail goes up on the angle right where tha alternator should fit

HISSIN · #8 (**permalink**) 10-07-2007, 04:32 AM

Aussie mike my main problem, is that i had to bring the motor forward to the max, so i could get tailshaft in. The alternator is now right where the chassis goes up on the angle if i cant get small alternator to fit, i may have to modify inner guards. Thanks for the info and photo Regards HISSIN