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10-09-2007, 04:09 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Pattaya,
Posts: 479
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Not Ranked
LS1 Header Tank
Hi Guys
Got my radiator fitted and now need a header tank to fit the LS1. What is a good size for the header tank?. Where do you connect the pipe work?.
Bruce
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10-09-2007, 04:21 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Canberra,
ACT
Cobra Make, Engine: '85 Dax, 302W - "Street Boss", C4, Jag suspension
Posts: 146
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Not Ranked
No idea about LS1 header tanks - but does anyone know anywhere that have header tanks for sale? Or do you need to get it specially built?
__________________
...Ralph
30 year old car - a work in progress
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10-09-2007, 04:54 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: The Hills,
NSW
Cobra Make, Engine: Absolute Pace
Posts: 1,354
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Not Ranked
Bruce,
I think most of us with LS engines have had custom ones made.
Shaun made my one up, and it is brilliant. I am filling via the heater hose outlets. (Car is not running yet, so not sure how well it works).
Make sure you can bleed all of the air out - others have had problems with overheating if there are any high points in the system.
Cheers,
Ben
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10-09-2007, 06:04 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Gold Coast,
AUS
Cobra Make, Engine: Wish I had my own PACE 427
Posts: 2,145
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Not Ranked
In my experience the best solution is to fit an in-line filler neck and an over-flow tank.
In-Line Filler Necks and Over-Flow tanks are available off the shelf. You can even use the plastic over-flow tanks from cheap auto stores. The only problem with plastic ones is that they discolour and look terrible after a while. Even when new they are not the most attractive thing.
Snake Bite sell both anodized CNC machined T6061-T6 alloy In-Line Filler Necks and polished stainless Over-Flow tanks.
You want to fit your in-line filler neck to the top radiator hose, ideally so that it is the highest part of your coolant system. If it isn't the highest part, then it will be more difficult to get all the air out of the system. You can fit a small bleeder to the top of your radiator if it's the highest part to bleed air out of the system when filling with coolant. Or if the top hose is the highest part, just push it down to burp all the air out. It can also help to get all the air out, by filling the car with coolant while sitting the front up on ramps/axle stands. You can also run the car with filler cap off to bleed off some extra air, and give it a little rev to squeeze a little more fluid in and quickly put the cap on.
Our first Cobra had an in-line filler cap that was below the top of the radiator. We would just fill the coolant as high as we could then run the engine, the engine would eventually bleed out the extra air into the over-flow tank. When the car was cool, we would keep topping it up until all the air was removed.
Once all the air is removed and you engine is up to temperature, you should see the over-flow tank level rise as the engine bleeds excess coolant into the over-flow tank. When the engine is cool, the over-flow tank level should drop as the coolant is returned to the cooling system. If you have air in your system, the over-flow system normally does not work.
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10-09-2007, 07:28 PM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Melbourne,
VIC
Cobra Make, Engine: RMC, carb 347 TopLoader and Jag running gear ~ so old school I time it with an hour-glass :D
Posts: 1,293
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Not Ranked
not pretty
hi
mines not the prettiest solution but it works very well for getting air out of the engine.
i think that keeping the header tank/ filler high and the ability to easily ensure that it is just coolant in the engine is far more important than the size of the header tank.
If you dont have a top hose with an outlet like mine you might be able to tap into your manifold to get at the coolant (this is what I did to mount the temp sensor near the thermostat).
LoBelly
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10-09-2007, 07:58 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Sunbury,
VIC
Cobra Make, Engine: Rat Rod Racer, LS1 & T56
Posts: 5,391
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Not Ranked
This is about the only pic I could find that shows my header tank setup.
There's an AN#6 fitting I've silver soldered onto the crossover pipe between the heads. This leads to the top of the header tank to purge any air bubbles out of the system. There's a similar AN#6 line from the top of the radiator to the top of the header tank to burp the air out of the radiator. The line at the bottom of the header tank is an AN#10 and it runs to halfway up the radiator side tank. This is the fill line. The radiator and engine block fill fine, you just pour the coolant straight into the header tank and it drains through. Air is purged out as you go. I've had no overheating problems and the temp guage has behaved itself even on the track.
I've still got to make a matching overflow bottle.
Cheers
__________________
Mike Murphy
Melbourne Australia
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10-10-2007, 12:09 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Geelong,
Vic
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic Revival.
Posts: 215
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Not Ranked
Another version along the lines of Mikes but horizontally mounted using the radiator hoses directly.
Cheers,
Dale.
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10-10-2007, 01:07 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Sunbury,
VIC
Cobra Make, Engine: Rat Rod Racer, LS1 & T56
Posts: 5,391
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Looking really good there Dale. Got a date planned for rego yet?
Cheers
__________________
Mike Murphy
Melbourne Australia
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10-10-2007, 06:00 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Geelong,
Vic
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic Revival.
Posts: 215
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Need a set of wheels to put on it and then its all go hopefully.
Dale.
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10-10-2007, 06:41 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Perth,
wa
Cobra Make, Engine: Pace Alumina 427 #69
Posts: 1,615
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Not Ranked
Mike that header tank looks awesome, just what I need for my GT40.
I have a small one at the moment( header tank that is), Any chance of getting one made??
__________________
RF12 414 Windsor 8 stack ,6spd, Avons
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10-10-2007, 05:00 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Alice Springs, central Australia,
NT
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic revival kit (CR3181), gen III engine, T56 6 speed box, AU XR8 lsd diff
Posts: 5,699
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Not Ranked
Here is a picture of the one that Shaun made for me.
__________________
Cruising in 5th
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Never be afraid to do something new, Remember, Amateurs built the Ark: Professionals built the Titanic.
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10-10-2007, 07:24 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Darwin,
NT
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic Revival Kobra,LS7 427
Posts: 380
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Not Ranked
Cobbindale
Where did you get the straight water pump fitting?
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10-10-2007, 07:42 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Sunbury,
VIC
Cobra Make, Engine: Rat Rod Racer, LS1 & T56
Posts: 5,391
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Not Ranked
Hi Dave,
Norm at Aussie Desert Cooler made it for me originally. It's been butchered a bit since then. Originally I had it made with hose barbs on it and a bracket to bolt it to the foot box. Scotty (OzVenom) welded some AN fittings on it for my and I cut the bracket off and made the clamp setup on the chassis.
Mine is OK but if I was doing it again I'd get one of the ones Shaun makes. He seems to do top quality work and has all the fittings on hand.
Cheers
__________________
Mike Murphy
Melbourne Australia
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10-10-2007, 08:31 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: FALMOUTH ,
me
Cobra Make, Engine: ??? THIRD OWNER OF UNFINISHED CAR,THINK ORIGINAL BUILDER WENT BELLY UP
Posts: 3
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Not Ranked
Man ,you Guys Like To Spend Money. A 1996 Mustang 11 With A 302 Has A Nice Little Inline ,upper Hose, Deal With A Rad. Cap. It Is Above The Rad. Or You Can Make That Way.cheap Too.
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10-10-2007, 08:42 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Melbourne,
Vic
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic Revival (CR3204) 6ltr s/c, T56 6spd
Posts: 95
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Not Ranked
Similar to Boxhead's, here's the one Shaun made for me. Along with the radiator, its a real work of art.
Regards,
Luke.....
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10-10-2007, 09:35 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Gold Coast,
AUS
Cobra Make, Engine: Wish I had my own PACE 427
Posts: 2,145
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Not Ranked
If you want to unclutter your engine bay, you can also hide the overflow bottle up under the front wheel arch. At the front or rear of the guard, depending on where your filler is.
On our first Cobra we hid the overflow bottle under the guard. We just used a plastic bottle and made a metal shield for it to protect it from road & track debris. We left a slot in the metal shield so we could check the fluid level. Worked very well. Just turn the wheel to full lock and look under the guard to check the level. As far as I know the under-guard overflow bottle is still going strong 10 years later.
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10-11-2007, 02:57 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Geelong,
Vic
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic Revival.
Posts: 215
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Not Ranked
Hi Alffie,
The straight fitting was part of a bulk order from the states by Ben (beejay). You could perhap send him a message as he may have one left over.
Had to machine a little out of the housing as I used a ls2 type thermostat but a standard unit may fit directly.
Cheers,
Dale.
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10-11-2007, 06:05 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: The Hills,
NSW
Cobra Make, Engine: Absolute Pace
Posts: 1,354
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Not Ranked
I should still have one or two left. PM me if interested.
LS1 Straight Thermostat Housing
Cheers,
Ben
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10-11-2007, 07:21 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Perth,
wa
Cobra Make, Engine: Pace Alumina 427 #69
Posts: 1,615
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Not Ranked
Ok
Someone point me towards this Shaun with magic abilitys to fabricate alloy Art. please.
__________________
RF12 414 Windsor 8 stack ,6spd, Avons
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10-11-2007, 04:36 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Gold Coast,
AUS
Cobra Make, Engine: Wish I had my own PACE 427
Posts: 2,145
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Not Ranked
Dave, just dug up some of Shaun's threads.
Contact Details:
custom aluminium
Photos of work done:
pics
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