Update on my build

[Baz]

[Baz]

Photo 1. 7.10.07 - Body removed from chassis to enable the underside to be painted with heavy duty stoneguard.

Photo 2. 16.10 to 31.10.07 - Chassis sent for scientific / laser measurement to ensure that it has been constructed perfectly square and that all mounting points are in correct position.

Photo's 3 & 4. 7.11.07 - The LS2 motor and 6L80E transmission are sitting in the chassis to establish the optimum positioning of the engine and gearbox mounts. Also enables the gear shift selector to positioned as far forward on the consul as possible.

[Wazza]

I really enjoy the photos of the different Cobras as they're created...well done.

I thought some of you might like to see one of the best "early stages" photos ever sent to me by one of our Queensland members.
Funny Guys!!

[stephen low]

By the looks of that picture and borrowing a line from "The Castle", tell him he's dreaming......

[Rebel1]

Hey Baz, how did ya find the engine position without having a diff in the thing?.

And, if ya did have a diff, were you able to position the engine with the alternator in the standard location?.

Is that a brass radiator?. If so you might like to consider replacing that with an alloy one. Alloy engines and brass radiators are a definite no no.

Going great mate......keep the pics going.

Cheers

[Baz]

Thanks Rebel 1,

Give us a go. I'm trying to do this after having my right shoulder replaced 7 weeks ago and I'm not as fast as I should be.

The mounting positions haven't been finalised yet as I'm still painting the rear suspension and diff housing.

The alternator will be repositioned to a location above the left front cross member.

My radiator IS brass. I've never heard of a requirement that I need an alloy radiator for an alloy engine, but I'm really keen to hear more on this topic.

I'm not saying your wrong, but I would just like to hear the theory of your logic.

The reason that I ask this question is that my numerous Cobra acquaintances have had brass radiators feeding alloy engines for periods up to 6 years and have had no problems with them, whilst others with alloy tanks have had theirs split and subsequently installed brass radiators.

Can anyone tell me why brass radiators and alloy engines are a "No No" before I go too far into the project.

I need all the help I can get.


Baz.

[Rebel1]

Originally Posted by Baz

Can anyone tell me why brass radiators and alloy engines are a "No No" before I go too far into the project.

I need all the help I can get.
Baz.

Baz, as I am lead to understand is that aluminium and brass reside on opposite end of the galvanic scale therefore should never be placed together in an electrolyte. ( read water)

I also know of folks who have used brass radiators ( even know of one had a shim brass head gasket) with alloy engines then found their heads corroded from electrolysis.

It maybe possible (I doubt it) the latest coolants stop the reaction but I wouldn't take the risk.

Cheers

[pezza]

Originally Posted by Baz

Photo 1. 7.10.07 - Body removed from chassis to enable the underside to be painted with heavy duty stoneguard.

Photo 2. 16.10 to 31.10.07 - Chassis sent for scientific / laser measurement to ensure that it has been constructed perfectly square and that all mounting points are in correct position.

Photo's 3 & 4. 7.11.07 - The LS2 motor and 6L80E transmission are sitting in the chassis to establish the optimum positioning of the engine and gearbox mounts. Also enables the gear shift selector to positioned as far forward on the consul as possible.

Hi Baz,

I'm aslo building an RMC. How did the scientific & laser measurement tests turn out. How accurate is the chassis?

[Baz]

Pezza,

The R.M.C. chasis was built pretty close to square.

The only alteration we have to make is on the front nearside lower control arm mount. It's 5mm lower than on the offside. No dramas though. I'll just take it off, give it a slight grind then re-weld it back on. Easy.

If I hadn't had it lasered, I would have encountered problems with my wheel alignment so its saved me a lot of fiddling and worry.

When all the engine and gearbox mounts are in place, the entire chassis will then be powder coated.

Baz

[Rob. Smith]

G'Day,
Keep a close eye on the powder coater. I experienced a lot of coaters that don't know the correct process on powdercoating. One left my piece for a week before he coated it. I luckilly returned to his shop before he did the job and took the piece away and blasted the surface rust off before he coated the thing ( this is the same reason ARC weldmesh fences rusted out from the inside ) also aluminium should be cooked at a high temp before coating to remove impurities before sealing it up (the same result is white fuzz and the coating falling off) familiar? I had my own RMC chassis blasted and painted with eurathane primer and then I prepaired and painted it with two pack eurathane silver tinter and clearcoat.

[Rebel1]

After a couple of failings I gave powder coating away. Not a fault of the system just the applicators.

I'm now a POR15 man and love the stuff.

[Philm]

With my chassis it was sand blasted and then powdercoated the next day.

Powder coat is also a pourous surface and will still let moisture in you need to have it coated with Zinc first then the powdercoat colour.

Phil

[stephen low]

I'd concur with rebel as there seem to be too many coyboys out there that can't powder coat worth a damn.

I am planning to strip down my car next winter to por15 the chassis after welding on bits and pieces and to rejuvinate a 10 yo chassis that has essentially seen no road time but has suffered the ravages of time in storage.

Where I did tart up parts of the chassis with this stuff, I was highly impressed by the finish from just brush application. That appeals to me as then it is just me that can cause any stuff up and of course this costs only for the paint!

Cheers