Electrical bits - Shrinkshop

[sambo]

After seeing the neat wiring job on the Daytona cars at the factory tour on the weekend, I've been hunting around for a good source for heat shrink, terminals, wire, etc.

This site looks to be the best value for money and no doubt the Canadian exchange rate will help.

http://www.shrinkshop.com/index.php

Does anyone know where to get wire disconnects from? Not the crude male/female snap plugs, but two piece disconnects similar to the molex plugs inside your home PC. eg, the ones you plug into your hard drive.

Paul

[Krait]

You can try Farnell http://www.farnell.com.au or RS Components http://australia.rs-online.com/web/

I think I got most of mine from electrical wholesalers such as Lawrence & Hanson. I used Utilux terminals throughout to ensure compatibility. The expensive bits back then (15+ years ago) were the tools.

Edit:
A quick look at the Utilux webite shows they don't list moulded connectors any more. They have been bought by Tyco, who also own similiar companies, so maybe they've rationalised production.

I see another company Semico http://www.semico.com.au in Sydney appears to be stocking similiar gear. By luck I'll be in Sydney for the next few days and will be staying a stones throw from Semico. I'll drop in and check them out.

Cheers

Geoff

[sideshow]

i just have to ring a guy and he usually drops round within 2 days
and i just get stuff he keeps in his van
its like a boy in a toyshop
but not sure if he will drive to melb heheeheh

i just use the plain white plugs with brass terminals

they do ok job u can get waterproof stuff and german plugs but how much o u want to spend
i have not had probs with the basic white plugs just sometimes when custoemrs try to wire things themselves and dont use correct crimpers hlf the wires can pull out

but even crimps i do with proper crimpers sometimes once in a blue moon pull out

but u should be able to buy everything u need at a decent auto aprts shop

not supercheap

even if u buy bulk stuff u wont save much

if i wire a whole car prob spend up to 300 in parts

the terminals and plugs are only bout 50 bucks

if u buy a pre made loom then u dont need much extra wiring

te proper crimpers are about 50 bucks and u ge tthem from jaycar

[sideshow]

also jaycar sell heat shrink too

bout $1.20 per 1m length for 3 mm stuff

each time i go there i buy about 100 bucks worht of heatshrink

beware when using the hard drive connecotrs on wire 4mm or bigger

plus the hard drive ones are hard to find

one i use i can find at most auto parts shops

just goto narva website u will find everhting there

write down part numbers and then goto yr shop and say order me this

[sambo]

Thanks Geoff. That Seminco link didn't work by the way.

Sideshow, I just checked my wiring kit (American Autowire Highway 15) and it uses 12 gauge wire for all power feeds. I doubt the 3mm heat shrink will hold 2 or 3 of these wires. I'll be running brake, tail and indicator wires from the fuse box down the length of the car and the idea is to heat shrink them and then fasten at regular intervals to the chassis or body. What do you generally use to attach lengths of wire to fibreglass? Eg, inside wheel arches or the nose cone?

[Krait]

Originally Posted by sambo

Thanks Geoff. That Seminco link didn't work by the way.

Link is working now

Cheers

Geoff

[Nor Cal Al]

Don't know if these guys are available over the pond but check out alliedelec.com or www.newarkinone.com
I'm pretty sure Newark is world wide. Both paper catalogs are 2 inches thick.
AL

[sideshow]

for long bits i use just the corrigated conguit think thats ho wu spell it

heatshrink at jay car comes in 3mm 5m 6m 10mm 15mm and maybe 20mm

[Krait]

Using heatshrink over a long cable run creates a fairly rigid section. Makes it difficult to mould the harness around obstacles and it prevents the cables assuming their own bending radius resulting in a contorted loom.

Heatshrink is only really designed to insulate connections or where the cable insulation has been removed.

As Sideshow says, using split corrugated conduit may be a better solution and way easier to add a cable to later if necessary.

As for fixing, in non visible areas it may be easier to hot glue, or similar, the loom assembly directly to the fibreglass body rather than trying to afix clamps. There are self adhesive plates which have a cable tie threaded through them to hold the loom, they are usually fixed using double sided tape but could be glued in place instead for longevity.

Cheers

Geoff

[sambo]

Geoff, the "heat shrink" I saw on the weekend wasn't rigid, it was almost like they didn't apply the heat. More of a loose, flexible sleeve to protect the wires from the elements. I might give them a ring and find out what they used.

[boxhead]

Try your local Laurance and Hansen agent for plastic tubing and for heat shrink, they can supply it in a multitude of colors.

I bought the white plastic terminals from local motorbike shop.

[sambo]

Boxhead, they don't seem to have a store in Melbourne. I can only find the Sydney details and no website.

[dbn04]

sambo,
not sure if this is what you want, but check it out anyway they have some handy stuff.
http://cableorganizer.com/automotive/

[boxhead]

Sambo, it looks like they are only just building a website.
http://www.lawrenceandhanson.com.au/...=NONE&SRV=Page

Here are the Melbourne stores.
http://www.hagemeyeraustralia.com/wp...&postcode=3000

[sambo]

Thanks Boxhead, I'll give them a call. Interesting history behind the company too.

[Rob. Smith]

Sambo, I think the stuff you're looking for is called "spagetti". It's just a plastic sleeving.
There's another stuff called spiral wrap. It wraps tightly around your harness bundles but allows branch wires to exit where ever you like. It looks good too. It won't keep dirt or water out. I used it under the dash etc. Got it from Jaycar. Heat shrink is mostly used to seal up crimped connectors to the wire. It provides a semi rigid support to the wire where it enters the crimp.
Try electrical distributors like davis & spence, laurence & hansen, rovert, Farnell is real good on electronic bits and rs online is good for most electrical stuff...a bit pricey though.
Smithy

[sambo]

Thanks Rob. I visited L & H yesterday and was told they don't have anything suitable for automotive, which is strange after all the recommendations. I'll try Jaycar today and check out those other names. Thanks again.

[sambo]

Edit: East Coast Auto Spares is the go! Found conduit for under $1.50/m, plus the whole range of heat shrink and 'spaghetti' tubing. Can anyone vouch for Optima batteries? The 750 CCA "blue top" was $280 and seems to be better value than the equivalent Odyssey, once landed here.

[alffie]

Try Sochienstron dryfit 500As they are small and can be put is on any angle. They are rated at 15amp hours.

[Rob. Smith]

Originally Posted by sambo

Edit: East Coast Auto Spares is the go! Found conduit for under $1.50/m, plus the whole range of heat shrink and 'spaghetti' tubing. Can anyone vouch for Optima batteries? The 750 CCA "blue top" was $280 and seems to be better value than the equivalent Odyssey, once landed here.

G'Day again..I've got a red 720 CCA optima it's about three years old and it seems it never loses a charge..It's been sitting on the bench for that long and each time I go to charge it it doesn't need it. They were designed for US hotrodders who hibernate their cars over the snowy winters.
I read some where that the oddesy batteries have a tendencey to drop the plates off the posts. This happened to a mate of mine. He now has an optima.
Smithy.