L98 Temperature sender

stumpeater · #1 (**permalink**) 01-17-2009, 02:04 AM

G'day, I went to install the sender for my temp gauge, I am wondering how you guys may have adapted a 1/8" BSP sender in to a 12X1.5 mm plug hole on the right hand head? If I turn down a 1/4"BSP fitting and re thread it to 12 mm there is not much brass to play with. any suggestions?Thanks

Aussie Mike · #2 (**permalink**) 01-17-2009, 02:22 AM

I've made a couple of adaptors to go down to 1/8 BSP. The trick is to leave most of the material on the outside and only have the tip of the sender poking into the head. Leave the 1/8 BSP threaded section in the head of the adaptor and make the head a bit larger in diameter. Then you only need a hole large enough for the probe to slide through the center of the adaptor.

I also made a drilling and tapping jig to take that hole for the sensor out to a larger size. It's of guide that bolts to the head and aligns the drill perfectly straight and then another jig that holds the tap straight. That way a copper wahser will seal nice under the head of the adaptor. I had to because there was no way the mechanical sender for my autometer guage was going to go in there.

Here's the mechnical sender adaptor. Unfortunately I don't have any pics of the jigs loaded.

Cheers

gjkrv8 · #3 (**permalink**) 01-17-2009, 02:31 AM

I used a 1/8 NPT (as my sender was NPT) to 12mm x 1.5 Brass adapter and broke one off and had to use Easyouts to get it out.

I was very gentle the second time and used a little bit of locktite.

Works a treat.

Mikes suggestion is a good one.

Rgds

Gregg

boxhead · #4 (**permalink**) 01-17-2009, 03:35 AM

I drilled a hole in my water pump assy (or is it the timing case) and threaded it with a 1/8 NPT tap, screwed the sensor straight in.
There is a flat section on the pump that points straight up, it is where Mike has modified and fitted his coolant filling point.

stumpeater · #5 (**permalink**) 01-17-2009, 04:59 PM

All good info, and food for thought, Gregg, is the adapter you mention readily available? Save me making one! Also does anyone know if there is likely to be an electrolysis problem with the brass adaptor and alloy head, the sender is brass anyway? I notice Mikes is aluminium, Peter

gjkrv8 · #6 (**permalink**) 01-17-2009, 05:55 PM

Peter, I bought my adapter from Castleauto part no GENIII-T/S 0354721442

http://www.castleauto.com.au/contact.html

I also think Howard Instruments where I got my VDO guages and senders from sells these adapters as well. part 320.054 M14 x 1.5 to 1/8" - 27 NPTF 20mm 0394574755

Peter, I dont believe there is an electrolysis problem - there was some discoussion about this a while back. I am pretty sure some of the existing senders on the Engine are Brass.

Rgds

Gregg

stumpeater · #7 (**permalink**) 01-18-2009, 01:48 AM

Thanks Gregg, I will check them out.

sideshow · #8 (**permalink**) 01-18-2009, 03:29 AM

if u do make one from scratch best to use stainless

these wont break as easy
my instrument guy got afew made up and got them made from stainless

if we are in a rush or limited for room we mount them in front water pump section b ut it sticks out like dogs balls so best to do all this stuff before engine is fitted and fit it to the rear where u wont see it

electrolisys is a funny thing
speak to pwr and they give u one way to mount radiators
if u asked them afew years ago they would have given u another reason
pisss poor water quality we drink these days can also cause it
so i use demineralised water whic u can get from good old woolies pretty cheap