Fender spats

[Merv and Sharon]

All interesting questions and hard to answer as no one, here at least, has used them for an extended period, or indeed in racing. I could be wrong about that.

If they are made and fitted well there should be no flapping. The outer edges could contain a nylon rope or even elastic cord to ensure tightness. I am not sure about the aerodynamics but either the leading or trailing edge could have the most air pressure.

Finally, the alternative for the Harrison now is nothing or the Stoneguard film. I have used the latter in the meantime until I get some good spats made up. It fits quite well.

The really interesting question as Warren suggests, is which material is most durable. Soft leather is said to be the most flexible and potentially best fitting, but may not therefore be more durable than a commercial multilayer vinyl.

Merv

[Rob. Smith]

What if you put the stone guard plastic stuff down first ( I've heard it's easy to remove when you want to) then the cool leather spats. Double protection, no "dust sanding" and simple replacement.

[Merv and Sharon]

That was my cunning plan Rob .....

Still interested to hear from any fabric/material specialists out there?

Merv

[trularin]

Well, the NASCAR shop should have my heads done this weekend. Once the motor is back together, I was planning to explore the spat thingy.

I have two large rolls of the thin "rock guard" film that can be applied, but I fear it will not be enough. So, a snap down fabric type spat may be in order.

I am unsure about mounting under the fender lip as shown in your photos. Are there clips?

[400TT]

I've seen some higher K leather splats on cars in the USA. They looked really good, you had to look closely to tell their age.

It's certainly easier to get new splats made after a few years, then repainting.

Actually with the km's Wazza does, wear and tear is a real issue.

I think if you are careful you can really minimise any marks to the paint underneath. Make sure the paint surface is clean and dust free before applying. And make sure you remove them when you wash the car. Also before re-fitting wipe the backside of the splat to minimise grit getting between it and the paint. But you do need a splat that is well fitting, with a soft foam backing that stops any contact with leather to paint...especially stitching.

Trularin, I just used velcro on the edge of the splat where it folds under the fender. I did use contact adhesive to stick the velcro to the inside of the fender to ensure a strong bond. Worked really well. The splat just had a strap at the bottom at reached under to a press stud on the chassis.


Here is what my splats looked like on my old Cobra.

[Merv and Sharon]

Thanks Craig. I have also been advised that there are small sheets of 2-3mm gel that can be obtained and easily cut to size and would be a good backing. Investigating that.

Merv

[400TT]

Merv, those gel sheets sound very interesting. Let us know how you go.

[Merv and Sharon]

Yes Craig, my engineer son suggested it. He uses it now and says it has high impact absorption characteristics. Will get some details next week.

Merv

[Merv and Sharon]

This has been a slow process. The stainless/chromed stone-guards for the Harrison are no longer available - well not in any practical sense. Also I was keen to reduce the bling factor as much as possible. I looked at the leather ones and may eventually go that way but made some up with lift-a-dot fasteners and some think UV treated flexible plastic. They will do the job in the meantime!

[Merv and Sharon]

The only thing that could worry me about these is if water gets down in between the paint and the plastic sheet and then hot sun, would the paint blister?

[gjkrv8]

Was getting sick of finding small paint nicks on my fenders, so I put some of the clear SPATS on today from Ozisheild.

No point posting photos as you can hardly see them with the naked eye let alone a photo.

Reasonably easy to put on - just use a soapy solution to position them and a sweegy starting from the middle to move the solution out.

Also used an alochol based solution first to clean the surface area.

I liked the clear because I really like my paint colour.

Dunno about you guys but winter in Melb is killing me - wnet for a small drive today in 10 degrees with my jacket and beanie. Roll on spring/summer.

(got another niggling problem that I will need to ask you all about see thread re rubbing noice)

Rgds

Gregg

[Merv and Sharon]

Good weather driving up here now Gregg! I finished up with the same type of film, VentureShield. Was easy to fit and works well and no added bling.

[gjkrv8]

Originally Posted by Merv and Sharon

Good weather driving up here now Gregg! I finished up with the same type of film, VentureShield. Was easy to fit and works well and no added bling.

Merv, I envy you guys up North in winter.

I am having serious Cobra withdrawals.

Merv, I reckon the look of your engine upgrades are fantastic. I think my next "upgrade" on the LS1 is to remote the coil packs - they just are so ugly on top of the rocker covers.

Enjoy

Rgds

Gregg

[Merv and Sharon]

Thanks Gregg. It is cool in the morning - more 'bracing' really - but still great for driving. I think that Mike has managed a good look on his LS motor.

The plenum on the Ford 5.0L is an unattractive bit of kit too.

[jcraigau]

Seriuosly - it's 0 this morning in Perth, I have enough trouble getting out in the hardtop.

[STEVE-O]

Originally Posted by SandyC

I would be concerned about dust/dirt getting under leather or vinyl spats and then having wind buffet and mechanical vibrations turn spat into sandpaper on finish. I've seen this on front bras and once you put them on you can never take them off because after awhile the finish gets sanded dull under the bra and you have unsightly gloss differential if the bra is taken off. Is this not something to be mindful of?

Sandy, My SPF came with leather spats and have been on for 2 years. After taking them off this year for cleaning, I didnt really notice the paint getting dull underneath them BUT I did notice some wear along the bottom edge where debris possibly got in and over time rubbed the paint off. Generally they fit tight with attachment at the top, a snap at the bottom and velcro in the wheel wells. Dont know if there is any way to really prevent wear spots ( maybe along possible wear edges, put some 3M clear shield?). I dont plan on taking them off but its something to be aware of.

[Outwest34au]

ANother option would be to trace the shape required on paper, scan it and save as an EPS file then cut it with a vinyl cutter as used to make signs. Spandex sells Avery vinyl and AGP (aus graphic supplies) sells the Oracal product.
The vinyl itself comes in a multitude of grades and colours. You can even get carbon fibre look or chrome.
Each rear side would cost about $5 max with good vinyl.

There also was/ is a company that made "skinz" that are a circa 2 mm clear plastic adhesive sheet designed to fit to headlamps. I does eventually go a bit yellow but expect to get at least 3 years out of it in outback conditions.

Or try a product like http://www.xpel.com/

[Outwest34au]

Good find Gregg,
quite a reasonable price too. http://www.ozishield.com.au/products.asp?cat=856

As I have a cutter I will try make my own when the time comes. I have also thought of making 'stickers' that fit my wheel centres. That way I could change the wheel colour weekly by simply peel and stick a new centre on. Maybe thats a bit of a queer thought but I will be making my own stripes, decals, gumballs and labels. Good 7 year vinyl will still give a few years service even with bonnet heat and sun.

[Merv and Sharon]

OziShield supply "VentureShield' film pre-cut, or in any length that you want. It does a good job. I had mine on for 12 months and then decided to take it off and fit a larger piece to cover higher up the wheel arch. I also have it along the lower sills of the car. It can only be seen if you know it is there.

I have heard that with some of these products, you can just as easily take the paint off with them, when they are removed. So, on advice, I used a hair dryer to gently heat the film (not a paint heating gun!) and removed them slowly. No drama at all and the paint underneath was perfect. As you get better at working the film when wet, using a credit card or similar for shaping, you are able to go right up to edges and even round them if needed. The wheel arches on each Cobra seem to be different so it may be best to buy a metre of the product and make up template in paper and then go from there.

[gjkrv8]

Originally Posted by Merv and Sharon

OziShield supply "VentureShield' film pre-cut, or in any length that you want. It does a good job. I had mine on for 12 months and then decided to take it off and fit a larger piece to cover higher up the wheel arch. I also have it along the lower sills of the car. It can only be seen if you know it is there.

I have heard that with some of these products, you can just as easily take the paint off with them, when they are removed. So, on advice, I used a hair dryer to gently heat the film (not a paint heating gun!) and removed them slowly. No drama at all and the paint underneath was perfect. As you get better at working the film when wet, using a credit card or similar for shaping, you are able to go right up to edges and even round them if needed. The wheel arches on each Cobra seem to be different so it may be best to buy a metre of the product and make up template in paper and then go from there.

Merv - I wish I had the film all over the car some times - Most of the little nicks and scratches are from me not the road - first scratch I was so annoyed at myself I had to sit down for a while.

Do you have/use anything special on the mud guards when leaning in to work on it? I have some really soft lambswool seat covers that never got used. I am thinking of buying some proper covers you see the mechnic shops use? Are there Cobra ones around?

Rgds

Gregg