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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 01-10-2012, 06:57 PM
gjkrv8's Avatar
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Cobra Make, Engine: Classic Revival CR 3505, LS1, T56 6 Speed, VE 3.45 LSD Rear, 6 Spot AP Fronts, 4 Spot Wilwood Rears
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Default Failed Brake Light Pressure Switch

Well it only took 2 years but my inline brake light pressure switch failed yesterday. (i.e. pressure doesnt cause switch contacts to close).

I am going to go to the pedal switch now as I never liked the pressure option on the rear brake lines as with a front bias the lights came on a fraction later than when you pressed the pedal and also if you were stopped at the lights and only had your foot lightly on the pedal they might not come on at all.

Fortunately I put in clutch and brake pedal switches for the cruise control so it will not be too much of a drama.

I am not going to bother removing the inline switch as I will probably create a leak I dont currently have :-)

I can now confirm that the inline pressure switches are crap.

Rgds

Gregg
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 01-11-2012, 12:29 AM
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Hi Rob

I must say I have to agree with you 1000%.

It takes just as long to do a sh*t job as it does to do it right in the first place and in most cases less time as you don't have to do it again when it fails, which it usually does.

Dimi.

Last edited by Dimi; 01-11-2012 at 12:32 AM.. Reason: bad spelling
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 01-11-2012, 05:15 PM
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I'v been using a pressure switch on the front lines since I first built the car, 8 years ago.

I put it in the front lines, because I also have - and often use - a line lock. Really nice to get rolling on a hill. If I press the brake pedal, close the solenoid, and take my foot off the brake pedal, the front brakes are still actuated and the brake light stays on. The guy behind me won't see the brake light come off until the car is actually moving.
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