Nearly ready for Painting

[gjkrv8]

Hi All,

Just finished fitting my side pipes (sorry fake), and Roll Bar.

The side pipes I got from Warwick Harrison - I gave him my CR measurements and he made them up. Polished Stainless. Good quality.

I made some custom brackets to suit and all appears ok.

The Roll bar is from Ian at CR. In the new chassis their is a rear mount in the boot. good and bad - Good as you dont need to make a bracket, Bad - you need to make a big hole to get the post through so my hole on the top of the deck is rather large so I need to make a wider bezel for the rear stay.

Now need to work on which method to use to attach Bonnet Scoop. i.e. screws or bonded - open to suggestions here.

Rgds

Gregg

[pneall]

Greg,

Screwed or bonded its a personal choice. I think the CR scoop is too small and would probably go for a slightly wider one ( and higher) if I had the choice again.

Phil

[LoBelly]

Personally I like the screw/bolt/rivet down look and I had to get a bigger scoop when I changed engine.

Fortunately, Doug Pearce makes one specially for RMC's - I dont know if he does Classic Revivals but it might be worth a call.

went from this..



to this..


I like the style/look but now I have to match the paint...

So, if, like Phil, you think that you'd prefer a different scoop then getting it now is definately the go.

LoBelly

[Tenrocca]

Another vote for traditional looking riveted look. I have used button head stainless (3mm I think). Not a pic of the scoop but used the same for the bonnet rivets - although I just tapped and locktited into the fibrelass, whereas the scoop ones went right through with lock nuts.

[Merv and Sharon]

Similar

[gjkrv8]

Yes I prefer the rivet/screw method.

I assume you did all the drilling, screwing prior to painting and then detached for painting?

I am reasonably happy with the scoop height/width/length etc.

I think I'll go with the screw method, thanks for the advice all.

Rgds

Gregg

[Merv and Sharon]

Yes Gregg. All done before painting so the edges can be prepared to match well after painting. There are available pattern diagrams for the 'rivets' on the hood to emulate the original/s.

Merv

[cobbindale]

Hi Gregg,

CR with bonded scoop but not Ians. Purchased from Don at Snake Bite.

Cheers, Dale.

[IMG][/IMG]

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[Mando]

Hi Dale, have you done anymore work to your car? Any chance of seeing more pics?

Regards.

[cobbindale]

Hi Mando,

Been slack, just working on the dash at the moment getting ready for paint.
Putting a glove dox in was a stupid idea. Can't believe I have spent so long just trying to hinge the damb thing.
Things should start moving in the next couple of weeks.

Don't want to swap motors do you, all the shinny parts on yours would look great with my paint colour.

Cheers. Dale.

[Tenrocca]

Dale I know this sounds stupid but the hinges on mine, while weighing as much as a couple of house bricks, worked out great. I used cupboard door hinges. Cant see them from the front at all and resulted in a really neat fit. I still need to cover the back of the door obviously:



Geez your bloody paint looks good.

[Beejay]

As much as I would like to sledge Tenrocca for his big, bulky hinges, they really are a good idea.

Must be from the same school of thought as Mr Mizzi with his kitchen knobs on the dash.

Ben

[Mando]

Hi Dale, it seems your glovebox is like my heater and air vent. Ive spent what feels like months making and adapting parts to get the heater and air vent up to scratch. Ill think about your kind offer but I am really looking forward to seeing progress pics of your car and a few other guys that have reached your stage of build.

Regards.

[gjkrv8]

Used the rivet look similar to Merv's. about 100mm spacing.

Used Screws with nutserts to keep it simple.

Looks good. IMHO

Had to repair a hole from a previous location of the scoop (had it too far forward).

will post a shot when I get one.

Just wating on some fibregalss resin to cure a little before fixing the holes and my rear roll bay stay hole that I buggered up.

The last hole I had to make and I stuffed, murphy's law. I suppose I had to learn how to fibreglass sooner or later.

Rgds

Gregg

[stephen low]

Gregg

Test question for you, what did you use to repair the car? Epoxy, Vinylester or Polyester?

Don't panic mate, assuming the car is polyester, they'll all stick, and practise does make perfect.

I've been playing in the shed on my new (old) toy trying to get it ready for winter series sailing brrrrrrrr. It's called a Javelin and they do go like stink.



Lots of glass repair too. The fawn patches are filler I layed up on Saturday over areas I'd had to sand back to foam and reglass. These boats are glass laminated over high density foam.

Wonder when a cobra will be built this way??



Also had to repair the mast gate and the black stuff is carbon - bloody expensive! But then it is super light and very very strong compared to normal e-glass (white woven glass sheet)



Too many fibreglass toys to finish and I wanted a professional finish on the cobra so that's why Greg got the job!

The Javelin is just a work horse and it'll be a bit of a bitsa until I know my son is committed to sailing with me, but hopefully I'll be able to tow it down to the club on the back of the cobra. If it ever gets finished!!

Enjoy that cold shed in the meantime Gregg.

Cheers

Steve

[gjkrv8]

Hi All,

Just putting on the final touches before I rip it all off for painting.

I ordered the finishline 2" Bezel kit with grommets for the Roll Hoop.

Problem is the my rear stay is reasonably upright and the Oval Bezel is a bit big. (The oval grommet is ok - may need a light haircut)

The Circular Bezel used on the front two mounts actually fits better.

Before I try to order a single Round Bezel, just thought I'd check if any of you have a spare Bezel or kit lying around you want to sell?

This is what it looks like

Rgds

Gregg

[Tenrocca]

Hi gregg - I found the same thing with mine and had to order a single round bezel. The steering coulm bezel is the same as the round 2" roll bar ones - so just order that. I had to shape the rubber a bit with the sanding drum on a dremel to get it to fit the rear stay ok, but it does come up pretty neat.

Cheers

[gjkrv8]

Originally Posted by Tenrocca

Hi gregg - I found the same thing with mine and had to order a single round bezel. The steering coulm bezel is the same as the round 2" roll bar ones - so just order that. I had to shape the rubber a bit with the sanding drum on a dremel to get it to fit the rear stay ok, but it does come up pretty neat.

Cheers

Tenrocca, Thanks for that tip. Just had a look at the finishline site and found the steering column bezel. Will need to order a couple more goodies to make it worthwhile from a freight perspective - what a shame - its my birthday soon so a good excuse.

Also, did you trim the excess on the rubber grommets so that they do not protrude beyond the Bezel or left them as is with about 3mm or so excess etc? - got any close up pics?

Rgds

Gregg

[Tenrocca]

I just left em as is - I think they look ok the way they were, and I would have stuffed it up trying to trim them no doubt. I can take a shot tomorrow for you (possibly after the first test drive - weather permitting)

[Mando]

Hi Gregg, Im pretty sure Ive got a spare rubber and bezel. Ill take a look over the next couple of days and confirm. I thought the rubber sitting past the alluminium ring looks really good. Im with Tenrocca, I could never trim the rubber to match ring and get a good job.

Regards.