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12-21-2009, 09:03 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Alexander,
AR
Cobra Make, Engine: B&B 427 Stroked Windsor TKO 600 w/3.50 posi 9"
Posts: 789
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Not Ranked
Hydraulic Clutch - Loose the Cable!
I know this has been discussed but I had to share the mod I completed this weekend. Because it was too cold outside to do much else, I decided to install the parts that I had ordered from Summit. I converted my cable clutch to hydraulic and it works great. Gives me peace of mind that my cable won't break in some remote area and leave me stranded. And it only cost approx. $160 and much easier (my opinion) than installing a Quadrant.
http://lnfletcher.homeip.net/66Cobra/hydroclutch.html
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12-21-2009, 09:19 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Louisville,
KY
Cobra Make, Engine: I'm Cobra-less!
Posts: 9,415
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Not Ranked
As long as a hydraulic bearing is not used, I'm all for hydraulic clutches and prefer them over other methods.
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12-21-2009, 11:18 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Menasha,
WI
Cobra Make, Engine: B+B 351w #112
Posts: 600
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Not Ranked
I've got 9 years on my clutch cable in my B+B. Should I worry that mine will break? Jim
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12-21-2009, 11:20 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Louisville,
KY
Cobra Make, Engine: I'm Cobra-less!
Posts: 9,415
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Not Ranked
No. Clutch cables were used on many factory cars, especially Fox/SN95 Mustangs for thousands and thousands and thousands of miles.
The thing that keeps them alive is the use of lower clamping force pressure plates, like the stock 10.5" diaphragm plates.
I would think that the use of stiffer pressure plates, like the Long and Borg & Beck, with higher clamping forces would cause stretch and premature wear/failure.
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12-21-2009, 01:11 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Alexander,
AR
Cobra Make, Engine: B&B 427 Stroked Windsor TKO 600 w/3.50 posi 9"
Posts: 789
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by aggie76
I've now replaced mine twice in 5000 miles. They have both broken at the 3/4 inch dia pulley on the top of the pedal assy.
Regards, Alan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aggie76
Hi Rob, I adapted an Aluminum Mustang quadrant to the top of my pedal assy after my 3rd cable break in 10000 miles. So far, so good at 11,800, but I won't know if I've actually improved things until I get past 12,500 miles (avg cable life before the modification was 2500 miles).
Regards, Alan
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This is just some of the comments over time regarding the problems with cables that I was talking about. Like I said, I had not had any problems with mine but it would be a downer to get stranded because of it!
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12-21-2009, 01:54 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: L.I.N.Y.,
ny
Cobra Make, Engine: Antique and Collectible Autos 408w
Posts: 113
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Not Ranked
Great write-up! Thanks for the info. I wasn't sure if I wanted to go hyd. I do now. Thanks
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01-08-2010, 08:44 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Phoenix,
AZ
Cobra Make, Engine: B & B Cobra 5.0, Twisted Wedge-Trackheat, TKO 600
Posts: 20
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Not Ranked
I order the parts you suggested from summit and have installed them in my car. I am having a little trouble getting the clutch completely disengaged. It appears the length of travel isn't long enough, do you have any suggestings.
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01-08-2010, 09:27 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: May 2000
Location: Northern VA,
VA
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic Roadsters
Posts: 2,765
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by Voltaire
I order the parts you suggested from summit and have installed them in my car. I am having a little trouble getting the clutch completely disengaged. It appears the length of travel isn't long enough, do you have any suggestings.
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Shoulda stuck with that cable !!!
.
__________________
LIFE IS TOO SHORT TO WORRY ABOUT GOOD GAS MILEAGE
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Utinam logica falsa tuam philosophiam totam suffodiant!
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01-08-2010, 09:56 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: San Jose CA,
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: SPF_R_/BRG/FRBoss302/327CI/FordEFI/Under_Car_Exh/
Posts: 2,523
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Not Ranked
This is similar to the setup we use everyday, -- I will make up an article on this.
V-- you may have to play with geometry a bit. -- if you move the rod from the slave cylinder -closer to the trans you improve geometry.
it will pull a further distance in the clutch, for the same amount of travel on the cylinder. --
Steve
__________________
Steve SPF 2734 MK3 / Brock Coupe #54- panavia.com
Last edited by PANAVIA; 01-08-2010 at 09:58 AM..
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01-11-2010, 06:42 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Alexander,
AR
Cobra Make, Engine: B&B 427 Stroked Windsor TKO 600 w/3.50 posi 9"
Posts: 789
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Not Ranked
First thing to check is that all of the air is bled out of the line. Second is that the slave cylinder has no slack in regards to the clutch arm. Also make shure that the master is getting full travel. If all of these are correct, it should give you plenty of travel to disengage the clutch.
By the way, on mine, I exchanged the placement of the bleed valve and the input on the slave so that the bleed would be on top and allow me to get all of the air out.
If you will measure the travel of your slave, I will compare with mine and make sure that it is not a difference in the clutch arm or clutch workings.
In the mean time I will attempt to measure mine and send it to you. If my memory is correct, it is 1 1/2 inches total.
Last edited by lnfletcher; 01-11-2010 at 07:45 AM..
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01-13-2010, 02:53 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Alexander,
AR
Cobra Make, Engine: B&B 427 Stroked Windsor TKO 600 w/3.50 posi 9"
Posts: 789
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Not Ranked
[QUOTE = Voltaire]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Voltaire
I order the parts you suggested from summit and have installed them in my car. I am having a little trouble getting the clutch completely disengaged. It appears the length of travel isn't long enough, do you have any suggestings.
[/quote]
Quote:
Originally Posted by CobraEd
Shoulda stuck with that cable !!!
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By the way, Voltaire PM me and told me he had it worked out with a little adjustment.
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