B&B wheel hop

blubyu2 · #1 (**permalink**) 12-03-2002, 11:42 AM

Im running a new fms 8.8 that im going to narrow this winter with the coilovers supplied buy B&B. Im hoping that after I narrow the rear and get the back to set a little better It might fix the problem but right now when I hit 2nd it rattles my teeth.

Blake thanks for the pic's of the belts I still need to get a digital camera ( but was warned not to before christmas) so I can start helping out a little more

July 11/12/13th
Greg

OhBuoy · #2 (**permalink**) 12-03-2002, 12:04 PM

Speaking of getting the rear to sit a little better, what is the optimal stance for the rear end? I have an SN95 rear end that I know is wide, and my tires are outside of the fender lip. Where should they sit?

Tom

blubyu2 · #3 (**permalink**) 12-03-2002, 12:17 PM

Tom,
Mine also sticks outside the wheel lip and I still get rub on swooping bumps. The wheel should be tucked right up in the well and the back end should drop a good 3or4 inches. just hope that fixes the hop, its bad Im afraid im going to start to break things.

July 11/12/13th
Greg

Clois Harlan · #4 (**permalink**) 12-03-2002, 12:44 PM

I have fought these problems for two years. I bought some tubular trailing arms (Upper and Lower). This has eliminated my wheel hop (my first engine a 335 hp 302 and also in my 428 CJ I have in it now). I bought mine from Bryan but I have seen others from Ford and Factory Five that are just as good and cheaper.

I am trying to decide wheather to narrow my 8.8 posi I have now or to just have a 9" built to my spec's for the Cobra for about the same price. For about a $1000 I can have a narrowed 9" rear with my choice of gears and all the 8.8" brackets welded back on so I can use all my other equip. Then my wheels will be tucked in under my fenders and all the rubbing should stop.

Blake Olson · #5 (**permalink**) 12-03-2002, 01:09 PM

I need to change tire profile....my tires rub on the front part of the inner panel....right behind my back...I'm running 275/60/15's in the rear...and I'm going to change to 275/50/15....to squat the back down...and give me 2" less in diameter to stop the rubbing....right now..on bumps,etc....it makes a god-awful noise...and white smoke puffs out...then...a burning rubber smell...can't be good...looking for some new tire sizes this weekend...

blake

Clois Harlan · #6 (**permalink**) 12-03-2002, 01:11 PM

Try 295-50 X 15 I like them a lot. You can also go with a different offset wheels and accomplish the same thing as narrowing your rear end

d isham · #7 (**permalink**) 12-03-2002, 01:19 PM

AutoWeld makes a nice set-up for 8.8 rear that eliminates wheel hop. Their site is http://www.autoweldchassis.com/index2.ivnu
and here's the link that specifically shows their kit. http://www.autoweldchassis.com/cobra.ivnu. Kit consists of a pair of brackets that mounts to the 8.8 and adjustable UCAs. The brackets relocate the mounting point of the UCAs to the rear and the adjustables allow you to adjust for correct pinion angle. It is my belief and experience that a major contributing factor to wheel hop is caused by incorrect pinion angle such as too much positive angle. I have this set-up and adjusted for neg 3 degF pinion angle and I have absolutely no wheel hop w/ 5.0LHO 360HP no matter how hard I launch.

Doug

shelby bankston · #8 (**permalink**) 12-03-2002, 05:29 PM

iv got 295- 50-16 bfgand they do the same thing in turns what gives dont b&b know what works and what dont when they completly build these cars

Gordon Claunch · #9 (**permalink**) 12-03-2002, 10:09 PM

Hi Guy's, I just did this, my rear end was also from a lincoln, it was an open 3.27, I had put a power trax no slip differential in it, that cost me about $425.00, I ended up selling the whole thing, I bought a new 8.8 rear end from Fms with 3.73 gears, I bought the ranger axles for $60.00 for the pair from Decy Figueroa on the Cobraforum, I bought the new brake brackets from Richard Oben of North Cobras or North Racecars, I put the whole works together, oh I needed brakes from a 94-98 mustang, I shaved about 4" off total, no more rubbing at all and it looks like it should, to me anyway, I was able to lower the car with the coilovers so it doesn't sit all hiked up in the rear I have about $1000.00 in the new rear, but I sold the old one for $500.00 cut my losses and I am much happier, I wish they would have told me I would get a lot of rubbing if I tried to run bigger tires I would be money ahead to have had Bryan narrow it before I got it for $500 I am running 15x9.5 wheels and 275-60-15 tires, now it all fits under snug as abug!!! Oh, I absolutely love the 373's!!!

Clois Harlan · #10 (**permalink**) 12-04-2002, 06:49 AM

Gordon,

Pulling out the 327 gears and replacing them with 373 was the best thing I have done to my car. The old 327 gears made my car very sluggish off the line (but I could run 100 mph in second gear) even with over 300 hp in the 302 and a T-5 I had at the time. Since I replaced my engine with a 400 HP (at the rear wheels) 428CJ and went with a Close ratio Toploader I really need a little higher gears because I run out of "comfortable" RPM's on the road courses. I don't like keeping my RPM's over 6000 for any length of time. Before I made the engine swithch I spoke with Ford Racing seeking advise on the durability of the 8.8 and it has been every bit as strong as they said. I have launched at over 3500 RPMs at the drags and never had a problem.

I agree Bryan needs to make all his rear ends tuck under the fender like they should instead of making an improper looking product. Accuracy and quality makes good sense in this business. I believe I am going to look into Gordons solution it sounds like a good alternative. Thanks for the info Gordon.

Clois

Blake Olson · #11 (**permalink**) 12-04-2002, 07:58 AM

My 9" came "shortened" from B&B. however, the tires that they installed rub horribly. I need new tires before I drive much more...

I too am running a 302 w/ T-5....highway gears in the stock rear end make it a dog. I think i'm going with 3:73's this weekend. found a place that will install and set with new gears for about $300.00.

blake

cslithergo · #12 (**permalink**) 12-04-2002, 09:25 AM

I am running 40s on the rear on a 10.5 inch rim - what I did was to cut the section of the panel in front of the tire and reglass it into position to give it more room. I am not on the road yet but I do not think the tire can hit.
chris

Blake Olson · #13 (**permalink**) 12-04-2002, 09:39 AM

Chris,

what kind of tires and wheels are you running?

Team 3's? 15's or 17's? what are your sizes for all the above.

I am going to buy new tires and wheels soon.

thanks

blake

Mr.Fixit · #14 (**permalink**) 12-04-2002, 10:07 AM

To stop wheel hop you can: strengthen the control arms so they don't deflect, replace the rubber bushings with urethane, or modify the suspension geometry. Sometimes you need to do all three.

cslithergo · #15 (**permalink**) 12-05-2002, 11:26 AM

I have (If memory serves) Compomotive 17 inch rims with 8" wide in front and 10.5 in the rear. Tires are Michelin Pilot Sports 285?? 45 in front and 245?? 45 in rear. I will double check and repost tonight. Rear tires would have fit find but I did not like how my inner panel met the body at the top so I was going to cut and reglass this section anyway so I made a little more room for the tire at the same time.

Chris

cslithergo · #16 (**permalink**) 12-06-2002, 02:15 PM

had the numbers backwards - 245 in front and 285 in rear. If you are interested in rims I would strongly suggest you call Alan Paxton at Compomotive 1-800-621-8408. He set me up and then when I wanted to change the offset he did it at no charge and included shipping. Very nice company to deal with. Their web site is www.usacomp.com
Chris