The body is on!

ebiggs1 · #1 (**permalink**) 02-11-2007, 09:30 AM

The body is on and the engine runs! I did have to relocate the MSD box along with several other items to clear. Without a good manual, it's hard to know exactly where somethings can be mounted. Also you need lot's of help lifting and jockeying the body around to get it just right. Thanks to my two sons. Pics in my gallery.

Poolw · #2 (**permalink**) 02-11-2007, 10:02 AM

Great looking job! Sounds like you and your sons are really enjoying the project. I had a B&B and I would advise to to add a brake booster. You may not be happy with the manual brakes. Good Luck.

pmfranke · #3 (**permalink**) 03-06-2007, 03:00 PM

ebiggs what is the free lenth of your front springs and spring rate ? 375 # and 10 "? thanks, Peter.

496fe · #4 (**permalink**) 03-06-2007, 07:23 PM

I needed both my sons also. Those B&B bodies are heavvvvvy. The good news is that if you ever get hit, they go doink instead of crunch. I put even more steel reinforcement to strengthen the areas around the bumpers if you can believe that. They are real bumpers. I drive in an area with a lot of airheads.

Off topic a bit - you might think about trimming all that extra panelwork around the hood and trunk. It will look a lot more authentic and you won't give up muck strength, even though I added more support under the fender/hood joint.

Welcome aboard... almost.

Brian

Jim Werth · #5 (**permalink**) 03-06-2007, 10:38 PM

I have manual brakes and have no problems. Now power steering could come in handy some times! Jim

ebiggs1 · #6 (**permalink**) 03-07-2007, 09:58 AM

I have the stock springs that B&B provided so I realy don't know how stif they are. I can measure them for you but they are in place so what exactly do you want? The spring completely unloaded?

ebiggs1 · #7 (**permalink**) 03-07-2007, 10:01 AM

What body work are you refering to? I have the aluminum firewall and inner wheel well panels. I appreciate all the advice you builders can give me so feel free, please!

Dusty Rhodes · #8 (**permalink**) 03-07-2007, 11:30 AM

I used 400# front 10" and 200# rear 10" and wished I had used 250# on the rear. I am also useing a front and rear swaybar.

pmfranke · #9 (**permalink**) 03-07-2007, 11:41 AM

i have 365# qa-1 springs that are powder coated, 8" long when not compressed . my car is too low and stiff. I was wondering where everybody got the long chrome springs from? Dusty where did you get the sway bars from? your car must really have a stiff ride.

Dusty Rhodes · #10 (**permalink**) 03-07-2007, 05:58 PM

pmfranke, you couldnt ask for the car to ride any better. The front swaybar is from a 1986 camaro mounted upside down from what it is on the camaro. it fit perfect. my upper and lower control arms are tublier. I built my front coilovers, from parts from speedwaymotors.com. But now my rearend is not like anyother B&B. I got a 3link under the car, with a rear swaybar that I had to make.
I might be wrong about the front springs being 10" they might be 8". I'll have to measure.

pmfranke · #11 (**permalink**) 03-07-2007, 08:25 PM

Dusty,if you could measure that would be great. Also a pic of the camaro swaybar and how you mounted it to the lower control arm. now that you can post pictures (ha,ha) you can show off your beauty. Peter

496fe · #12 (**permalink**) 03-07-2007, 09:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ebiggs1

What body work are you refering to? I have the aluminum firewall and inner wheel well panels. I appreciate all the advice you builders can give me so feel free, please!

EBiggs1,
Here are two pictures that shows where to cut the lip/panel. If your body is permanently attached, it might be too late. I hope the pictures are helpful.

496fe · #13 (**permalink**) 03-07-2007, 09:58 PM

Here's the other one.

ebiggs1 · #14 (**permalink**) 03-08-2007, 07:39 AM

I see but yes, it is probably too late to do. It sure would have made it eaiser to mount the MSD box as mine is exactly where your is mounted.

ebiggs1 · #15 (**permalink**) 03-08-2007, 07:40 AM

The springs I have are from QA1. They are chrome and I will measure them today for you. I don't know what rate they are. They are as they came from B&B.

ebiggs1 · #16 (**permalink**) 03-08-2007, 07:43 AM

BTW, there is a pic in my gallery of them.

pmfranke · #17 (**permalink**) 03-08-2007, 10:51 AM

396, the trimming does look good.seems lke it might weaken it a bit. Wow, Dusty that is a fancy bit of enginering.nice to see those pic's on your page .Your front A arms are different than mine,easier to mount the roll bar to the plate. I wonder if your A arms are narrower than mine ?springs are not the same either.they look like they are not tapered. did you modify the mustang II upper perch to accomidate the smaller top diameter springs? thanks for measuring,Ebiggs. and all.

Dusty Rhodes · #18 (**permalink**) 03-08-2007, 11:03 AM

pmfranke, if you got tubler controlarms, they are the same lenght. I made those controlarms out of chromemolly tubeing.I wished I had shortened them about 1/2". look at the spendles they are GM off of an S10. I had to shorten the steering arm 2". if you notice the steering bearing bracket, it has been cut off and turned to the inside. reason why is there was a little bind in the steering. that solved the problem.

pmfranke · #19 (**permalink**) 03-08-2007, 11:28 AM

I can't see the spindles in your pic but I still think i want the wheels you have (american 427 ) and the clearance would be different if your A arms were different lenth than mine.

ebiggs1 · #20 (**permalink**) 03-09-2007, 08:11 AM

My springs look to be about 9 inches long. They are installed but there is no pressure on them. Are you having problems with yours?