B and B Header Install Question

[Wbulk]

I don't have any build documentation on this issue so I'm asking for help from anyone that has built a B and B roadster and had a situation where the left rear header tube is hitting the drivers foot box.

I decided to mock up the engine/trans/rear axle without the body to make sure everthing is aligned and set up correctly. I have the four link adjustable heim joint rear suspension so I needed to determine engine angle to set pinion angle correctly. I installed the engine and trans, but left the footbox /firewall in place. I have a 302 engine with T-5 trans.

I installed the engine mounts and tack welded them at the exact measurements from the K member B and B gave me. From the K member to the mount tube, right side 14 5/8' left side 14 3/4". The engine is dead level side to side. The frame is level side to side and front to back and on stands. At this point the left side header cannot be bolted up without really forcing the foot box to the rear. I can move the mounts about only 1/4" forward until the starter area of the bell housing would hit the frame notch out. The trans tail shaft is also centered in the frame.

Has anyone run across this. I guess the last header tube could just be bent wrong. I couldn't find any pictures of that part of another car.

Opinions, suggestions?

Thanks
Wayne

[Wbulk]

One follow-up general question. How far away should an exhaust header be away from fiberglass?

[jams]

Could be a bad header tube. I had to send back my set years back because one pipe was bent wrong and I could not screw in one spark plug.

I don't know if there is a minimum distance away from fiberglass but the further the better. If you have concerns add some heat shielding.

How far are you away from the fiberglass now?

[Wbulk]

With forcing the foot box back maybe 1/8" to a 1/4".

[Clois Harlan]

Wayne,

I had to put a dimple in my header if I remember correctly. It's been a long time since my build but I had issues with both my small block and my big block headers clearing the foot box. Bryan had told me to send them back but I had already had them ceramic coated and didn't want to go through that expense again. Just a note: when you go to install your side pipes either enlarge your holes in your flanges or use 5/16" bolts and some red RTV (put the RTV on a day before you install your sidepipes). You will need the wiggle room to get your sidepipes aligned.

Clois

[Wbulk]

I found a picture of another B and B 302 engine of the header on that side. That back header tube is different than mine. It comes over to the center before it goes down. There really isn't much room to move anything else. It's got to be the header. I'll send pictures to Bryan tomorrow.
Thanks
Wayne

[wfieldin]

If I remember the headers are right and left specific, do you have them on the correct sides? I think there is a flat corner ( as opposed to a rounded edge) on the plate that bolts to the headers, if I recall the flat spot needs to be towards the rear (footwell) side.

[Wbulk]

Yes, that is correct. The notch is up and to the rear.

Thanks.

[Wbulk]

As it turned out the header was made wrong and the manufactuer of the header is sending me a new one.
Wayne

[jams]

It happens and happend to me!

[boris_thespider]

I spoke to Barry at B&B (before Barry left) and he said you should shoot for about 1/2" of clearance between the driver's side header and the footbox. I have closer to 7/16" clearance on mine and he said it should be fine. I ended up crowding the front K-member as close as I could while still allowing room to get a surpentine belt on and off.

Mike

[Wbulk]

Good information. Thanks.
Wayne