Fuel Pump Problem

[stirlenr]

I was on my way to Lime Rock yesterday and the Backdraft quit just north of Kent. My quick diagnosis is a failed fuel pump. Either a wire came loose or the pump has failed. Without any build book or wiring diagrams its a bit difficult for me to do more than double check wires, etc.

Have any of you folks had a similar problem? The car is less than a year old with only about 1,500 miles, so its hard to believe the pump has failed, but who knows.

I plan to talk with Jay and Brian next week, but I tought other owners might have some ideas.

Thanks,

Rick in new Fairfield CT

[Tommy]

I'm not a Backdraft guy, but most electric fuel pumps are very simple - one wire to ground and one wire to power when it is switched on. A quick check is to run a jumper wire from the battery positive pole to the hot terminal on the pump. If you hear it run, the pump is ok electrically. You could use that to get home in an emergency. If the pump doesn't make noise (and the ground wire is OK), the pump is bad.

[tcrist]

If you find out that it is a bad wire or switch you can do what a friend of mine did on his 4X4 when we were out 4 wheeling. If the pump is in the back by the tank just run your new hot wire to the tail lite wire and turn your headlights on. That will supply power to your fuel pump.

He ended up leaving it like that. Made him run with his head lights on (safety) and he did not have to worry about someone stealing his 4X4. Even if they did they would not get very far.

[grumpy2]

check to see if your pump is wired thru the oil pressure sw.[it should be] if so could be a bad sw. or heaven forbid, worse.

[stirlenr]

Thanks for all the replys. The loose wire problem will be my first check.

Rick

[Cashburn]

Pretty sure you have a mechanical fuel pump? It does not help I guess when the dealer throws out the papers...

If you do have electric is the switch on at the dash? Check fuse in panel in passenger side foot box?

[Cashburn]

Correction, based on photos in your gallery the fuel pump switch is on so I have to believe you have an electric pump. When you turn the ignition key on without starting the car does the pump sound slow or struggling or nothing?

[stirlenr]

Thanks for all the input.

Jay in answer to your questions, the car has an electric pump with the dash switch. The switch was on and the car running fine when the engine quit. When I got the car off the road and started to check things, I realized the fuel pump was not making any pumping sound. I cycled the switch a few times to see if the pump might be stuck, but nothing.

Once I got the car back home (on a flat bed), I checked all the connections I could reach and checked the fuse but everything seems fine. In tracing the wires, it seems the pump itself must be either on top of, in or in front of the tank because I can't locate it to check the actual connections. I checked for an access port in the trunk floor but nothing. I hope you don't have to drop the tank to access the pump.

In any case, I'll plan to give you a call tomorrow (Tuesday) to figure out next steps.

Thanks again to all who responded,

Rick

[Blittleton]

sounds like you may have a holley pump. They will do this because of the Magnets coming loose when hot or something like that. Something Holley would never admit to anyways.

The question is what type of fuel pump do you have?

Bill

[Cashburn]

We use the Carter pumps. It could be a bad motor in the pump, or simply one of the terminals is off the pump. You can look underneath the car it is in front of the fuel tank mounted to the frame. There are two terminals on it that must be attached (little black rubber boots, they are friction fit).

[Rwillia4]

Before you take a lot of stuff apart do the simple check to see if you have power at the pump. Does any of the electronics work? Make sure the kill switch is seated.
Test for power (assuming you don't have a basic multimeter ($20) or test light ($6)): Have the car in the on position. Take a car tail lamp and a couple of paper clips. Get under the car at the fuel pump. Disconnect two wires off the fuel pump. This is where you need to be careful or you'll blow a fuse: DON"T SHORT THE PAPER CLIPS. Open up the paper clips stick one in the end of each wire. Touch one wire to the bottom of the bulb and one to the side. If it lights up you have power and probably pump failure.

[Cashburn]

Terminal came off, he's back on the road...

[stirlenr]

Thanks for all the input. Jay is correct. Once I got the car high enough off the ground, I found out one fuel pump terminals was loose. I tightened both press fit connectors and added a wire tie to keep them tight. I hope this does the trick. I'd like to see the connectors fasten with a nut rather than press fit, but it is what it is.

Thanks, Rick #794

[madmaxx]

Not to stick my nose in other people business but why in the world would anyone want an electric fuel pump on a carburated engine. Pathetic POS, noisy, loose prime, buzz, all around suck, except when you want them too. Soooo what is the advantage of an electric fuel pump over a mechanical?

[Cashburn]

Originally Posted by madmaxx

Not to stick my nose in other people business but why in the world would anyone want an electric fuel pump on a carburated engine. Pathetic POS, noisy, loose prime, buzz, all around suck, except when you want them too. Soooo what is the advantage of an electric fuel pump over a mechanical?

Sometimes a given engine does not have a provision for a mechanical pump AND a Carter pump is not any of the things you mentioned

[madmaxx]

Thanks for the explanation, for some reason I thought they did but I guess with fuel injection some timing covers are not set up for it besides the cam needing an ecentric. I had a holley blue and it was louder than the cooling fans!!! Lost prime below 1/4 tank if it sat for over a week and the genious that mounted the fuel pump regulator on the firewall did not get it level which drove me nuts, although no fault of the fuel pump.