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Outside Rear CV Boot
2 Attachment(s)
When doing the alignment on the car, the tech noticed that there was not a Outer CV boot strap on the rear drivers side wheel. So I tried 2 times to clamp it down and it just popped off as soon as I moved the car :confused:. After a few beers and a second set of eyes looked at it we discovered the following (see pix). There is a metal stub (about the size of the end of my pinky finger) that is cut in half on the passenger side, but not the drivers side. Because of this the boot cannot lock in place and the strap does not stay on.
First need to know....is this modified at the factory so the boot strap fits around it? Also what is the best way to whittle it down to look like the passenger side (Dremel, .....) :confused: |
What type of rear end is in your car?
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Trim off any thing that may hit the boot or clamp
BDR879 I beleive that the clamps are either crush fit or crimped. Either way you need to remove the axle assembly to repair. While you have the axle shaft assembly out, You can cut or grind off any casting parts that are not needed. This will give you more room to work in the tight space. Make sure you cover the bearing with tape to stop any metal flakes from getting into the baering seals or bearing. when grinding the hot shaving will stick to the seal if not covered. The other thing is to buy a CV boot kit and reinstall the correct amount of grease, put a new boot and clamps on it. I dont know if your axles are stock length from factory or are cut down to the correct length. Make sure the boot is installed correctly or you will rip the boot off the CV joint. If you can't do this yourself(cv boot replacement) I local garage or Ford dealership can do it. Throw the guy a 20. Good luck Rick L.
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Maybe this will help - http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tech...7-CV-Axles.htm
Rick, the boot is good, he just needs the clamp to hold and suspects the nub as the culprit that keeps popping the clamp off. What would the nub be for? If he can dremel it off while protecting the boot and the grease from catching the metal shavings, why couldn't he do that? |
The BDR half shaft assembly is not the stock BMW one, also if the boot has been breeched and allowed moisture or debri in it might be wise to either take apart clean and repack with grease or get new ones.
The driveshaftshop.com has good performance shafts for these cars. |
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I talked to Reg today and sent him pictures. He confirmed that the little nub in question was in fact supposed to be removed at the factory and obviously was not. He suggested an air powered grinder or Dremel. Once the nub is gone, I'll regrease the joint and attach a new clamp. Now all I need is for the temp to drop below 95 deg so I can get 'er done. ;) |
Get you a dremel tool with cut off wheel, knock of the nub, put a hose clamp on and your done. The grease is fine!!! Heck I had a old 72 eldorado convertible where the boot was ripped for 25K miles and believe it or not it was driven in the rain, the snow, the heat and never had an issue, by the way it had an 8.2liter, largest production engine ever used in a car, that is 501 cubic inches for you old farts.
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open to the elements and grease missing from joint
PurpleVenom IMO and the fact he would be smart to remove the axle assembly before he starts grinding or cutting the nubs off. The other thing is how much grease is to be in the joint. There is a spec and having the correct CV boot grease. Add too much grease, the pressure can build up in the joint and pop the boot off. I have seen and had this happen to me. Not enough grease and burn out a joint. I would leave the axle in when cutting or grinding this off. real easy to hit the boot, seal, and needing to clean the area real good from the metal filings. If these are stock axle lengths and joints are stock, fine out the cost of remans and do what you want. If custom you will pay double to triple. Not my money. This is the smart way, that's all. It's like you racing the cobra with the viper motor in 1/4 mile without the wheels bars you bent???:eek: remember that one?%/ No bars,:JEKYLHYDE that car is on the rear bumper and doing damage.:CRY::o Rick L How much longer does it take to do the repair the right way and not worry instead of quick fix, rub goldberg, mcgiever, and half azz, the list goes on.
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Wrong again Max
madmaxx Max you are wrong again the Viper motor is 8.4 liters, 510 cubic inches and this is a production car. Even bigger are Fait motor1911 and 1912 Mercedes Benz was some where in the 12 liter range. Nice try. I am old but the fart smell is on you.:p:CRY::o:LOL::LOL::LOL: Rick L. Ps I guess you missed a couple of days of school. It happens
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75 miles the car is new right? and ..... any reason why the dealer is not taking care of this issue. Is there no warrenty?
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I guess I should have said largest motor to date, vipers were not around in 72. 1911 1912 mercedes hardly a production car. I hope your viper engine is not a dog like my cadillacs, what a dead assssss, but it was front wheel drive.
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Unforturnately there are three places to machine. I have found several of these.
Bill |
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Back to the drawing board
Spend a good deal of time yesterday grinding down the "nub" on the drivers side with a Dremel tool, tie wrapped it as suggested by BDR (they said a tie wrap or conventional boot strap would work), and the *&@# thing popped off again:CRY::
As Bill said, there must other places where the strap is hitting that is knocking it off. I'm starting to get a bit frustrated now:mad: Looks like the e-brake cable is knocking it off. Now what??? Suggestions?? |
Use about 3 wraps of .041 ss safety wire
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Just happen to have that exact guage lying around for the wheels. I'll see if that works....
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Check to make sure the boot is not already stretched, it should be in a relaxed state so when the suspension and shaft move so dose the boot.
If it is already stretched meaning the center section is to far towards it then everytime the suspension moves the boot will be pulled off. |
Check the axle for the right boot location
BDR879 Check the inner location of the cv boot. Looking at 3/4 a picture the boot is stretched to far and the angle of the joint is pulling off the boot. Remove the inner clamp from the axle
install the steel strap after you fill the boot and joint with grease. make sur that 1 rib on the axle is on the inside of the clamp and the other side has a rib there also. This way it can't slide. Make sure the axle is in the CV joint and is not poping out. the clip may be bad and causing this to happen. Could you post a couple more pictures of the joint?? Any chance of getting a first name?? Would be nice. Rick L. |
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