Steering Rack

[bobinyelm]

Unfortunately I apparently got my car with one of the steering racks that had some extraordinary friction in it (it appears to have been in the right side internal bushing).

Reg kindly sent me a replacement rack to install, and being a used unit, I had to transfer the inner/outer tie rod ends from my unit to the naked replacement rack.

I was very careful to not damage the locking washers from my "old" rack, as the used ones supplied with the replacement rack appeared pretty badly bent up.

Upon removal of the inner tie rods, I was surprised to find the locking tabs that are there to engage the slots in the rack itself (the outer portion of the washers is then bent over the flats on the tie rods to lock the rods to the rack) had evidently been sheared-off when the rack was assembled (I was pretty careful to make sure they didn't rotate w/ the tie rod when unscrewing same, so I don't think they were damaged on removal).

This means possibly the only things holding the tie rods to the rack itself were about 3/8" or less threads when accounting for the washer thickness, and some Lock-Tite on the threads themselves. It took very little torque to unscrew one of the tie rods from the rack, in fact, though the other one was pretty tight.

The used locking washers supplied w/ the used rack were in far better shape than mine, so I very carefully straightened them, and re-used them after examing the inner tabs, and of course applied a liberal amount of blue Lock-Tite on the cleaned threads to help out.

My point is to caution those who drive, or track their cars at VERY high speeds that they may wish to pull their rack boots back and consider installing new locking washers at some early point, or at least checking to make sure that their inner tie rods are still fully threaded into the rack itself and are tight (If some torque doesn't move them tighter, I'd hesitate to apply more to break the thread locking compound unless you disassemble and apply more).

I just visited a good friend in another state who owns the sister car of mine, and remembering that he told me he'd seen over 160mph on his speedo a few times made me cringe when I saw what holds the tie rods to the rack.

My own plan is give my buddy a call, then to replace my used washers with new ones, if I can source a couple, ASAP.

BTW...anyone know what these racks also fit so if the good guys down at Backdraft can't get some, I can find them elsewhere?

Bob

[mln385]

Don't suppose you took any pictures of this issue? Kind of concerning their replacement to you was used!!

[bobinyelm]

Originally Posted by mln385

Don't suppose you took any pictures of this issue? Kind of concerning their replacement to you was used!!

I kept the old washers and still have the removed rack (Reg said they didn't want it back).

I could photograph the washers and the end of the actual rack to illustrate where the tabs should be if they are intact, but I don't have a website where photos can be linked to. If you (or someone else) does, I'd be happy to send some photos to you, and you could "post" them.

I don't know why Reg sent a used rack assembly that had been removed from another car and disassembled (I re-used my inner tie rod assemblies).

Other than several smile-shaped "divits" in the aluminum rack housing casting from edge-of-hammer-strikes (I don't know why anyone would beat on the casting with the edge of a hammer), and dents in the very ends of the rack (where someone evidently used a hammer to unlock the tie rod locking tabs, and missed, hitting the rack itself), the used rack appeared to be OK, though it was rather tight as well (but not as tight as the one shipped with my car).

I carefully dressed out the metal on the steel rack itself raised by the hammer-strikes with a file (so they wouldn't damage the internal rack bushings), and don't think they will affect operation in the least.

I am a bit concerned that with the front end on jack stands that the steering wheel is VERY hard to turn (less so than w/ the other rack, anyway), but perhaps this is normal, and will bed-in after some driving, or when the car is on the ground.

My car sat under a car-cover for a year before receiving it's engine, so technically BD didn't have to do anything for me, and could have said my warranty expired precisely a year after the car left their facility regardless of the fact it hadn't 'turned a wheel.'

I appreciate that Reg was kind enough to help at all, and that I am that much closer to getting my car licensed and on the road! I must say spending some time in SW Washington State driving my friend's car has renewed my enthusiasm to drive my Cobra (though I won't have the beautiful scenery and roads, or the 72 deg temps to do so).

Bob

[Cashburn]

Bob,
I would also check your outer tie rods since you are reporting that steering is still stiff. For reference what is your Chassis number?

[bobinyelm]

Originally Posted by Cashburn

Bob,
I would also check your outer tie rods since you are reporting that steering is still stiff. For reference what is your Chassis number?

Just some background info-

I removed the outer tie rod ends from the spindles when troubleshooting with the original rack installed, and the steering stiffness was maybe 80+% in the rack itself.

Of course, I also removed the tie rod ends from the spindles and swapped the inner tie rods onto the "new" rack with the racks off the car (it just seemed easier). The spindles turn easily in their ball joints, and can be rotated easily with one finger pressing on the steering arms, so the friction is not there.

I backed off on the rack friction adjustment (the spring loaded plunger that presses the rack against the pinion gear) on the "old" unit until the rack was sloppy, and the resistance didn't change (the rack seemed to be sticking in the passenger-side bushing). I did not try this with the replacement rack provided by BDR.

The replacement rack was hardly friction-free, of course. With the rack OFF the car, I clamped the splined steering shaft in a pair of 10" Vise-Grips (cardboard wrapped to protect the spines, of course), and I'd say it took probably 5 pounds force applied at the end of the pliers to rotate it, but when it moved, it moved smoothly, whereas with the one I took out, it took probably 10 pounds force to move it, at which point as the friction was broken, it would jump easily 15 degrees or so.

Now, with the wheels hanging in the air, I'd say the friction in the rack is perhaps only 50% of the total drag, and it's smoother. I don't have a fishing scale, or I would hook it on the steering wheel spoke at the wheel rim and give a measurement of the pounds-force required to turn the wheel.

If I could find my 1/4" torque wrench, I could also attach it to the steering wheel retaining nut and give a inch-pound reading for the force to turn the wheel (I think I will look for it!) to compare it with other cars. If my "wag" of 5 pounds force above was correct, however, that would equate to 4 ft-pounds (or 48 in-pounds) to turn the shaft with the rack out of the car given that my Vise Grips are 10" long, rather than 1 foot.

I CAN say, my car's sister-car (sister-car because it's the same specs and color, not because they were sequential chassis numbers, in fact it was built a year earlier than my car) that I drove in WA State 3 years ago, and again this July has very light steering, and returns to center via caster very well. It had only 500mi on it when I first drove it 3 years ago, and now has 5000mi. I have not driven my car after the new rack, but when I test drove it w/ the "old" rack in it, the wheel had to be turned back to center forcefully. It would stay wherever it was put, actually.

My Chassis number is 661, BTW, and was delivered to my dealer in May of 2008.

My present plan is to go ahead with inspection and licensing process, and see if some miles will loosen everything up a bit. Having never driven one of these cars with "zero-miles" on it, I am not sure just how "free" the steering should feel. Any input on that would be welcome, BTW.

Bob

[mln385]

Mine is 671 and so far no tightness other than it is a manual rack,had plenty of other shakedown issues but not steering.