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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 09-09-2015, 01:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xack View Post
But, here is the kicker, you need to put a load on your blinker circuit for your flasher to work properly. The LED lights draw only a few milliamps current and the flasher circuit is designed to work with incandescent bulbs of only a few ohms resistance. i.e. 12 volt bulbs. It's not a problem, they make loads which you can hook up in parallel to the blinker lamp. Here is the PN for the flasher replacement option. "EDFR"
Just use an electronic flasher that's not dependent upon the circuit load. These are widely available - here's one source: https://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/...oad-resistors/
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 09-10-2015, 10:45 PM
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I may have the same problem, brake lights not working. Both of them. How can I troubleshoot that switch?

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Originally Posted by Cashburn View Post
Since you have no lights as opposed to one, you likely have an unplugged brake light switch or the switch is gone from the heat. Housings are likely fine since they lasted that long.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 09-11-2015, 06:10 AM
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Originally Posted by jeffnolan View Post
I may have the same problem, brake lights not working. Both of them. How can I troubleshoot that switch?
Pull the 2 wires off the switch and connect them.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 09-12-2015, 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by csw View Post
Taillights aren't working again so I figured why I was trouble shooting (either bulbs are loose again or it's the switch), I might replace the tail lights with led. Do any of you guys who have done the swap have a part number as I see them from $3/pair on eBay to $16/each from the dealer so trying to figure out what you used and if you like the look. My fear has always been getting rear ended with my wife or kids in the car.
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Old 09-12-2015, 12:22 PM
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The newer housings were a substantially higher quality than the black housings are and there was no "melting" so to speak of. However, I ended up switching out to the superbrightLED's anyway. While they are not quite as bright as the normal bulbs, the difference in heat output is obviously significant. I am keeping the LED's in.

Last edited by itstock; 09-12-2015 at 12:52 PM..
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 09-12-2015, 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by itstock View Post
The newer housings were a substantially higher quality than the black housings are and there was no "melting" so to speak of. However, I ended up switching out to the superbrightLED's anyway. While they are not quite as bright as the normal bulbs, the difference in heat output is obviously significant. I am keeping the LED's in.
That looks like a very fun setup !
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 09-13-2015, 03:55 PM
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Default What Luck?

After seeing this thread for awhile, I decided to check my lights and discovered that my brake lights weren't working, nor was my rear left turn signal. The problems were a failed brake light switch and a loose bulb. Since my car is over three years old, apparently the brake lights weren't working long enough to melt the plastic sockets. LUCKY ME for two reasons: not having melted tail light sockets and not getting rear ended.

Needless to say, I have added a lighting test to my list of things to check on a regular basis.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 09-21-2015, 01:11 PM
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After looking at the cheap plastic bulb housing and knowing one day it will go bad as others have found I ordered Lucas tail and front lights from AES. They are the original style lights used on the Cobra. They are all metal and not Chinese knock offs as found from Cobra Restorers. I ordered a set from them but to my surprise they are not Lucas parts. The studs holding the housing to the care are flush mounted. You can use the larger LED bulbs if you wish without modification as seen in an earlier post. If your going to use LED bulbs be sure to use a resistor in line with the flasher bulb (green wire) in order to flash the turn signals. Another way is to change the flasher to a LED flasher.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 09-23-2015, 08:12 AM
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After replacing the bulbs I got so disgusted with the cheap housings I ordered from ASE in England a complete set of Lucas lights for the front an rear of the car. I am in the process of installing them and should have it done in a couple of days or so. The Lucas housings are all metal and will not melt and the bulbs fit tight in the housing. Its not a hard job but takes some time as the wiring in the car has to be attached to the housings on the Lucas lights. I have ordered the 24 LED bulbs from Superbrite as the Lucas housing will accept a larger diameter bulb. Will send some pictures soon.
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 09-24-2015, 04:24 PM
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Jimbo:

Looking forward to your report after installation. Photos would be nice as would a rough cost of the housings.

Thanks!
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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 09-28-2015, 02:38 PM
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Bill

The front two were 26.34 lbs ea and the rear was 18.57 lbs each. Not sure but I think the exchange rate at the time was 1.54 to one. Freight was about $35.00. Got them in 3 days. Stay away from the ones from Cobra Restorers. They are not Lucas. Aprox $230.00 for all. Will try and take some pictures tonight. They look great. Not sure why Backdraft uses red lens for the turn signal but I got both color lens. Extra lens are only about $12.00 ea. The web site for ASE is: www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk

Last edited by jimbo01; 09-28-2015 at 02:40 PM..
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 09-29-2015, 07:36 AM
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New lights installed
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Last edited by jimbo01; 09-29-2015 at 07:38 AM.. Reason: add photo
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 09-29-2015, 01:19 PM
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Nice job! Car looks great, but I think that the license plate color is awful. Have you thought of moving to another state?
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 09-29-2015, 01:30 PM
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Default Licnese plate

Never leave Florida. wish I could paint the background blue. State law says it must be the correct color for 1965
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 09-30-2015, 06:03 AM
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Never leave Florida. wish I could paint the background blue. State law says it must be the correct color for 1965
That's interesting. I got the 1965 light blue antique tag and I am in Florida.
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 09-30-2015, 12:30 PM
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This is not an antique tag. This is an original 1965 tag that is authenticated for this car only.
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