Bdr
 

Install a 5.0 Coyote motor and 5 speed OD tranny and experience 20+ highway miles to the gallon. :)

According to Reg at Backdraft headquarters, my backdraft has a 17-gallon poly plastic fuel tank. I know from experience that the fuel gauge is not linear. When that needle drops off of full, it goes to empty in a hurry. The owner manual should include more details about the features of these cars. Perhaps Backdraft will add more basic info in their future owner manuals. I have not measured the miles per gallon that I get on my car. It is what it is--not an issue with me.

jeesh....I guess that's a little disappointing to hear, plastic gas tank? fuel gauge not linear? :eek:

Yes just as days of old these fuel gauges are not the most accurate. However it is an easy fix, I make sure to fill up before every long drive and that way I can be assured of how many miles I have in the tank.

The newer cars have the plastic tanks the older ones were Aluminum. Both have plus and minus.

I guess it s not that big of a deal, just look at the ODI after filling.

Zeke, when you hear things like that about gauges and tanks etc. remember that all of those things can be changed. For instance, I'm on my second BDR (for sale BTW) and decided to put fuel injection on my actual big block so I ordered the aluminum tank already set up for the return line etc. If you haven't called Jay and you want a new BDR, you probably should. He can steer you through the technicalities.

If you don't mind used, try looking here: 427 Cobra Country--Ford AC Cobra replica manufacturers SUPER-SITE

Really need to check out Cobra country. There are generally a broad range of cars there that will give you a very good pulse of the market. Prices seem to be increasing quite a bit on new cars, but $62K seems pretty steep for a Backdraft. I would think you might be able to get a Superformance or turnkey ERA close to that price .. depending on engine selection naturally. Roush seems to have really increased prices and there are other very reputable builders like Keith Craft that put out a very good product at a different price point .. but they don't advertise as much.

Check out Keith Craft Racings crate engines. They have a BBF that puts out 700 hp and 650 ft lbs of torque for $11,500. A small block 427 putting out 450 hp and 450 lbs of torque for $8800. You can talk with them and get a "custom quote" on any modifications you want .. different heads, cam, etc etc. That could shave some $$ off of the cost of a new toy .. and still get a terrific motor.

I have a Keith Craft aluminum DART-blocked 427 Windsor stroker in my BackDraft that made 612 hp, 615 ft-lbs... it's a beast... and it's going up for sale in the next few weeks... ;)

Can you post pics or tell me more about it?

BDR #89. Crimson red, silver stripes. 8900 miles. DART aluminum-blocked 427 Windsor stroker by Keith Craft Racing, 612 hp/615 ft-lbs torque. Currently running a Holley 770 cfm carb, but also have a DaVinci 950 cfm. AFR-225 heads. Edelbrock Victor Jr. intake. Mezziere electric water pump. Pete Jackson gear-drive timing set. Ceramic-coated headers & sidepipes. McLeod twin-disk clutch & blow-proof bellhousing. Tremec TKO-600 5-speed trans- 0.82 overdrive. Half-open rear diff by BMW Racing. Autometer vintage gauges. Painted/polished Cobra oval air cleaner, but normally run with a round K&N air filter. Moto-Lita wood steering wheel and leather-wrapped steering wheel. Clean California title.

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mine is tank is stainless steel...#258

:D

I would not fault the car much for the gas gauge not being linear...the shape of the tank has a lot to do with that. I have had several muscle cars over the years that the first half of the tank indicated a lot "slower" than the last half. Typically, people that care about cars never let their tanks run low anyway.

Like you, I am trying to learn as much as I can about Backdraft Cobras. They are a front runner for me.

You are exactly right. Our rule is to fill at 1/4 tank mark. We also typically set the senders now with some "reserve".

I'm a noob and starting to do my research as well, I agree I really like the features offered with the BDR. My only concern are some of the posts I read from other members regarding rubbing of the tires, shaking of the body/frame, having to slow down when going over railroad tracks. Granted most of the posts I've read thus far go back as far as 2008 and don't really know when they bought the car. I'm hoping most if not all of these have been addressed and the car is built solid or more solid now a day's. Does any one have any input regarding these "issues" or concerns?

I'm also curious if the wheel well is still open, or closed like on the SPF or ERA chassis? I really like the look of the BDR and definitely the options you can get with them as you can "modernize" them somewhat.

Hopefully someone can also answer your question re the windshield and passenger door as I would like to know as well, thank you guys in advance!

I believe rubbing of the tires was only with certain tire use. I don't have that problem with my 17"/NT05 tire package.

Shaking of the body/frame is a new one. I do not have that with 1109/approx. 2012 build.

As far as railroad tracks are concerned, I think you are looking more towards a Lexus.

As far as railroad tracks are concerned, I think you are looking more towards a Lexus.[/quote]

Well the comparison was made to a SuperFormance where he didn't have to slow down on the railroad track but had to with the Backdraft because of the suspension. Based on your comment it appears that is still the case? You didn't comment on the windshield question, door or wheelwell can you add to that as well or are the comments accurate? Thanks.

Superformance AND Backdraft both have stiff suspension, but the backdraft feels a TINY bit stiffer. It is also known to handle better. I think the ride in the car is actually quite smooth for what it is, when compared to other cars that are set up for road racing. Back to the rail road crossings, I slow down because if I speed up, do to ground clearance, there is a good chance something scrapes the ground. I would slow down going over rail road tracks in most any car so I guess I just don't quite understand the question/comparison. I'm sure that with the infinite amount of suspension adjustments that you can make on the car, you could make it ride quite smooth while giving up handling characteristics. Is there a direct post that I should be looking for to understand your question?

The wheel well is "open" in the sense that rocks can be flung at the fiberglass. I live in SEPA where roads are pretty damn crappy, and I have yet to have any problems with the fiberglass cracking or starring. I think a simple fix for that would be spraying on a thick liner if it's a concern, and I have thought about doing this even though I haven't read any recent problems.

The windshield on my car is perfectly stable with no noticeable movement at speeds approaching 150mph. Other than the upright position being a concern for rocks breaking it, which is a noticeable problem across brands, I have never heard that complaint before.

As far as the door question, I'm not sure why anybody would put downwards pressure, as in your body weight, on any door. Especially on older cars, the hinges weren't quite what they are today. A little common sense goes a long way. You will find that on any fiberglass car, and I wouldn't want to be the fool that hangs off an aluminum door either. When/if YOU end up with any of the replicas, you will come up with your own list of rules to tell passengers. I think most of us have a short list, whether the concerns are real or simply perceived.

I researched different replicas for 2 years before joining this site and pulling the trigger almost immediately after talking to Jay. Hopefully you aren't taking my replies the wrong way as I surely do appreciate the amount of research that goes in to dumping stupid amounts of money on a practically useless car. It's better to ask now than buy and sell at a marginal loss.

We developed a spring kit just for railroad tracks... I'm not kidding! Our shop is actually near some tracks, and I basically drive over atleast 1 set of tracks on EVERY test drive. Sometimes 2!

So if that's your concern, we have a solution. It also helps for any road conditions outside the flats of Florida. You know, potholes, inclines, frost heaves, state budget deficits...

Just curious
 

What are the upgrades you are describing? Would like to find out the changes/mods that are now available. Henry