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4Likes
11-17-2015, 09:15 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 16
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Seriously stuck spinner wheels
OK, so I moved to Florida near the water a while back, and every day the impact of the salt air amazes me.
I was trying to get the rear wheels off to access the e-brake linkage, and there's no way to get them off. Same with all the other wheels. I've used: lead hammer, long sledge hitting a 2x4, got a tool from the web (no luck, snapped a foot long Craftsman socket handle), etc.
Any ideas? I'm stumped. Also, does anyone know how to get the BDR logo caps off the wheel centers? I've enclosed a picture.
Oh, and yes, I've checked a million times that I'm turning the right way....
Thanks in advance, Brendan
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11-17-2015, 09:24 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Cobra Make, Engine: Superformance, Survival Motorsports aluminum FE 482
Posts: 662
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Bill
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11-17-2015, 09:28 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Little Rock area,
AR
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA Street Roadster #782 with 459 cu in FE KC engine, toploader, 3.31
Posts: 4,519
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Don't know how this will work on a stuck spinner but about the best penetrating lubricant to break a bolt loose with is a 50/50 mixture of acetone and transmission fluid. It tends to separate so it needs to be stirred or shaken up and then liberally applied to where it will soak in and penetrate. It has worked near miracles on bolts so maybe for a KO spinner too.
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11-17-2015, 10:14 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Farmingdale,
NY
Cobra Make, Engine: Contemporary Classic Motor Car; 427 S/O
Posts: 263
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Gibbs oil..... spray on and let sit for a while.
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11-17-2015, 10:49 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Cobra Make, Engine: csx4163 full comp alu. body
Posts: 368
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X2 on Gibbs oil. Put it on, next day put more on, third day put some more on. Spinner 9-1-1 tool and lead hammer and should come off. Keep tire on ground when hitting with lead hammer. Setting down looking at wheel and spinner, with one spinner ear at 12 o'clock that ear should be turned towards the front.
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11-17-2015, 11:04 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Syracuse,
Ny
Cobra Make, Engine: Superformance #2660, FE-406
Posts: 372
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Buy the tool before something gets mangled.
__________________
The older I get, the faster I was.
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11-17-2015, 11:08 AM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Manchester,
NH
Cobra Make, Engine: AK1085 (302 Street), HTM111 (427 Comp), CSX2375R (289 Comp) and COB5999 (427 S/C)
Posts: 18,997
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Car left side goes right to tight left to loosen
Car right side goes left to tighten and right to loosen
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11-17-2015, 11:22 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Cobra Make, Engine: Superformance, Survival Motorsports aluminum FE 482
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1985 CCX
Car left side goes right to tight left to loosen
Car right side goes left to tighten and right to loosen
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I remember turning the top ear towards the back of the car to tighten. Simpler for my pea brain.
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Bill
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11-17-2015, 11:30 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 122
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Get the spinner tool. Works all the time !
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11-17-2015, 11:57 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Mesa,
AZ
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #2119 289FIA
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After you get the wheels off, the center cap should pop off since its generally held on with an O-ring. I use a hammer handle, from inside, and give it a few whacks. I've read that there is a better than Neversieze product available, but don't remember the name. Think it was sold by one of the wheel manufacturers and supposedly a couple drops do the trick.
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Karlos
"In the Land of the Pigs, The Butcher is King"
Last edited by Karl Bebout; 11-17-2015 at 12:00 PM..
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11-17-2015, 12:49 PM
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Senior CC Premier Member
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: SoCal,
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: CSX #4xxx with CSX 482; David Kee Toploader
Posts: 3,574
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1985 CCX
Car left side goes right to tight left to loosen
Car right side goes left to tighten and right to loosen
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Someone here came up with the saying years ago "Just remember Tight Ass"! For both sides, you tighten towards the rear. And that still sticks with me.
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All that's stopping you now Son, is blind-raging fear.......
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11-17-2015, 02:42 PM
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Thanks y'all. So, Razerwire, it sounds like you lift the car, tighten the tool, drop the car, use the hammer, lift, tighten...repeat. Correct?
I spoke with the spinner 9-1-1 guys today and ordered it, together with the 6lb hammer (mine was 4). Hopefully it'll work. I'll report back. Thanks.
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11-17-2015, 02:54 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Cobra Make, Engine: Superformance, Survival Motorsports aluminum FE 482
Posts: 662
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chicagocat
Thanks y'all. So, Razerwire, it sounds like you lift the car, tighten the tool, drop the car, use the hammer, lift, tighten...repeat. Correct?
I spoke with the spinner 9-1-1 guys today and ordered it, together with the 6lb hammer (mine was 4). Hopefully it'll work. I'll report back. Thanks.
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Watch the video on the link I gave you. Leave the car on the ground.
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Bill
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11-17-2015, 03:05 PM
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Thanks Bill, In the video he specifically says to raise the wheel. You can see the wheel move when he hits the spinner. It seems to me the wheel has to be free to move to pull the spinner closer to the wheel body as you tighten the wrench. Am I wrong?
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11-17-2015, 04:23 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Sacramento,
Ca
Cobra Make, Engine: Superformance, 427SO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chicagocat
Thanks Bill, In the video he specifically says to raise the wheel. You can see the wheel move when he hits the spinner. It seems to me the wheel has to be free to move to pull the spinner closer to the wheel body as you tighten the wrench. Am I wrong?
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If you use the 9-1-1 tool, you can have the wheel off of the ground for spinner removal. You shouldn't need the lead mallet at all for removal, only for spinner installation.
Ted
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11-17-2015, 04:52 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Haslet,
TX
Cobra Make, Engine: BDR #888, Keith Craft 408
Posts: 344
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Once you get the thing off wipe off all the anti-seize and use White Lithium Grease and when putting the spinner on choke up on the handle of the lead hammer and when removing hold lead hammer at the end...
Kevin....
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11-17-2015, 09:58 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Saratoga,
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: Backdraft RT3 #1133, Ford Racing 306
Posts: 222
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As I don't think that I can offer you any solid technical support, you have my moral support. I went through the same frustrating dilemma with my car after owning it for about a year. I pounded on the spinners with my lead hammer, and in the correct direction after a while, for several minutes over three days. They ultimately loosened to my persistent impacts with the hammer, the face of which became flattened to a large mushroom shape. I have to believe that you will also be successful in removing your spinners and feel the satisfaction of the accomplishment. And in doing so, I think that you will appreciate in the future, the ease with which you will be able to remove and replace your wheels via spinners instead of lugs as long as you remember not to over tighten the spinners. I find this unique aspect of my car to be enjoyable, not only for its technical efficiency in wheel removal, but also for its historical lineage.
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11-17-2015, 10:10 PM
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Kobura,
Now that's the half time speech I needed to hear! Thanks for the support. I shall report back at the end of my difficult journey.
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11-18-2015, 01:36 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Mesa,
AZ
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #2119 289FIA
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Kobura, hope you didn't throw your lead hammer away because of its mis-shapen head. You can dress it back into better shape with a torch. A Bernzomatic would probably even do the trick if you don't have an acetylene set up. Apply heat and massage back into shape with a putty knife, or what ever.
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Karlos
"In the Land of the Pigs, The Butcher is King"
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11-18-2015, 01:44 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Las Vegas,
NV
Cobra Make, Engine: Shelby CSX4005LA, Roush 427IR
Posts: 5,571
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Karl Bebout
Kobura, hope you didn't throw your lead hammer away because of its mis-shapen head. You can dress it back into better shape with a torch. A Bernzomatic would probably even do the trick if you don't have an acetylene set up. Apply heat and massage back into shape with a putty knife, or what ever.
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And if it's the American Hammer hammer they will re-cast it for you for a relatively small amount ($20, I think).
Watch out when heating lead - the vapors are toxic. I used to get to play with molten lead - first time was with cast iron sewer pipe where joints are sealed with oakum and molten lead, and second with fishing lures - my dad and I used to cast our own and then tie the feathers (a modified "fly tying" exercise but with underwater lures)
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Cheers,
Tony
CSX4005LA
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