Got delivery yesterday and need some help

[klausflorida]

Got my BDR delivered yesterday at 10 pm, couldn't wait and took it out, lights went dead after 10 miles, appears to be the steering column switch that has not enough tension under vibration.
I didn't get a real car manual even though I bought it new and I have a red light on the dashboard which I have no idea what it means. Red just means something wrong for me.

Car has a Roush 427R in it and it shakes too violent if I drive it at constant speed between 2000-3000 rpm, not sure if this is ok or not. I know this kind engine runs rough, but it feels like it is too much, maybe the carbs need to be synced, not sure.

Brake feels like doing nothing, might be normal, but how should it feel compared to a modern car?

I would appreciate it if anyone has a manual or at least tells me what all the lights one the dashboard are for.

[MOTORHEAD]

Who did the assembly ? Take it back to them.

[spdbrake]

Originally Posted by klausflorida

Got my BDR delivered yesterday at 10 pm, couldn't wait and took it out, lights went dead after 10 miles, appears to be the steering column switch that has not enough tension under vibration.
I didn't get a real car manual even though I bought it new and I have a red light on the dashboard which I have no idea what it means. Red just means something wrong for me.

1st: Congratz on the new car. The Red dash light is a alternator no output warning, thus the dead lights... Being a new delivery I hope they just forgot to attach the lead to the back of the alternator or one of the plugs on it are not fully seated.
On the column turn signal switch there is a Phillips set screw on the opposite side that will prevent the rotation.

Car has a Roush 427R in it and it shakes too violent if I drive it at constant speed between 2000-3000 rpm, not sure if this is ok or not. I know this kind engine runs rough, but it feels like it is too much, maybe the carbs need to be synced, not sure.

Does the car buck at low rpm?
Common on more radical cammed engines. If the vibration is always there even while not moving it could be the clutch. Center force clutches use a floating ring of weights which can get off centered, or it could be the installation itself.

Brake feels like doing nothing, might be normal, but how should it feel compared to a modern car?
Brakes are usually good but are really full manual in most cases. Because most cams used on these are pretty radical = low vacuum, the Brake booster it just for looks. But if you have a sloppy spongy pedal its air in the system.

I would appreciate it if anyone has a manual or at least tells me what all the lights one the dashboard are for.

Again congratz on the purchase. I'd contact Backdraft on Boynton Bch for a road trip to square you away. If they dispatch a Tech its only a 2.5 hr drive.

[Cashburn]

First things first you should contact your dealer. They should be able to offer assistance on these items.

That said, since you have a custom dash the arrangement of the indicator lights is unknown. There is 1 red light for low brake fluid and 1 red light for an alternator that is not charging. When the car is running are you seeing about 14 Volts? Then it's not that light. Since you are describing the brakes as being poor I suspect it's the low fluid light. Check your brake fluid level and also go over all the lines and the hoses and calipers and look for a leak.

You can get a warranty replacement on your turn signal switch, this is a new setup last year and some of them are not as tight. The lights turning off though is most likely a bad headlight relay BUT it could be another sign that the red light on the dash is indicating the alternator is not charging ... though you never mentioned it not starting or jumping it etc.

The vibration tied to RPM and not vehicle speed I would suspect is a flywheel or clutch issue.

How many miles were on your new car when you bought it?

[Millsy]

Originally Posted by Cashburn

First things first you should contact your dealer. They should be able to offer assistance on these items.

That said, since you have a custom dash the arrangement of the indicator lights is unknown. There is 1 red light for low brake fluid and 1 red light for an alternator that is not charging. When the car is running are you seeing about 14 Volts? Then it's not that light. Since you are describing the brakes as being poor I suspect it's the low fluid light. Check your brake fluid level and also go over all the lines and the hoses and calipers and look for a leak.

You can get a warranty replacement on your turn signal switch, this is a new setup last year and some of them are not as tight. The lights turning off though is most likely a bad headlight relay BUT it could be another sign that the red light on the dash is indicating the alternator is not charging ... though you never mentioned it not starting or jumping it etc.

The vibration tied to RPM and not vehicle speed I would suspect is a flywheel or clutch issue.

How many miles were on your new car when you bought it?

This is why no matter where you live you should have CASHBURN aka Jay from vintage motorsports do the final assembly on your Cobra build. His customer service is spot on. Any problems we have had with the car he has taken care of and I dont have to put up with the B.S. that the suppliers and manufacturers dish out. Jay handles all of that and he handles it well and gets the job done. It might cost you extra to have your car shipped to you but all the Crap and headaches that you wont have to deal with will be worth the extra money. I am lucky because i can drive out to his shop anytime to bother him which i do often lol. He has the experience you want with such a custom build.

[eedeutsch]

Starting from the driver side at the top moving right. Hazard pilot light-orange, High beam-blue, turn signal-green, ignition pilot-red, brake fluid level-red.

[klausflorida]

Just wanted to verify the break feel, never even thought about it could be the break fluid. but yes it is empty. Thanks guys for letting me know before getting wasted on the next tree

[klausflorida]

Picture here

[Cashburn]

So now you must determine where it went?

[mrmustang]

Was this a brand new build, or did you buy it used?
If bought used, what is the chassis number?
If bought new, what is the chassis number?

I ask as with other brands, there have been running changes, some have been flawless, others have had to have additional "tweaks" to get them to work as they should. I like to track these items when they come up. In this case, to see if it was a builder issue or a manufacturers running change that is the issue.

Also, if used, how much mileage was on the chassis?


Thanks in advance for your candor in your responses.


Bill S.

[klausflorida]

Originally Posted by mrmustang

Was this a brand new build, or did you buy it used?
If bought used, what is the chassis number?
If bought new, what is the chassis number?

I ask as with other brands, there have been running changes, some have been flawless, others have had to have additional "tweaks" to get them to work as they should. I like to track these items when they come up. In this case, to see if it was a builder issue or a manufacturers running change that is the issue.

Also, if used, how much mileage was on the chassis?


Thanks in advance for your candor in your responses.


Bill S.

Bill,

I bought it new 100 miles on it. It's Build No. 1598. The engine was installed by Speed Fanatix, Inc. and as far as I know they have done a lot of installs before.

Completion date of the car was 11/10/2016. It went up to the dealer in Ohio and got shipped down back to me in Florida.

[klausflorida]

Looks like hole in the fender is in the wrong place and the lines rub on the fiberglass. I checked everywhere but can't find any brake fluid that leaked out.

[klausflorida]

Originally Posted by spdbrake

Again congratz on the purchase. I'd contact Backdraft on Boynton Bch for a road trip to square you away. If they dispatch a Tech its only a 2.5 hr drive.

Backdraft would dispatch a technician? Wow, that would be great, I was trying to figure out a local shop I can bring it too. I will give them a ring and see what they can do, it's still under warranty anyways.

[cbreez]

Originally Posted by klausflorida

Backdraft would dispatch a technician?

Now that's funny...the word Backdraft coupled with technician!

[spdbrake]

Originally Posted by klausflorida

Backdraft would dispatch a technician? Wow, that would be great, I was trying to figure out a local shop I can bring it too. I will give them a ring and see what they can do, it's still under warranty anyways.

They should. Always best to the give the vendor 1st crack at making it right as its easier to absorb the re-work as additional overhead VS having to reimburse you in real money for a 3rd party shop doing the work. Most Companies understand customer service in that bad news travels much faster and farther than good. Stigma can kill sales.

[Mark IV]

Your missing brake fluid may be in the vacuum booster. If the master cylinder is leaking past the seals, the fluid gets sucked into the booster chamber and therefor you see no "leaking" fluid. This also destroys the booster and makes the pedal hard.

[Ozzie Goat]

Originally Posted by klausflorida

The engine was installed by Speed Fanatix, Inc. and as far as I know they have done a lot of installs before.

Completion date of the car was 11/10/2016. It went up to the dealer in Ohio and got shipped down back to me in Florida.

Don't let Speed Fanatix or Boyton delivery impress you too much.
My car came from there in 2008, and as I've gone through it - I don't think that place is too intrested in what they do. Just shoddy preparation.

You're lucky they didn't kill you.

[trularin]

Hard thing to do - give it back, but you should.

The price you paid has "warranty" attached.

Just call up and tell them there are some issues.

BTW, the car should not "shake".

Tru

[klausflorida]

Called Backdraft, the guy who can help me is not back until Tuesday. After asking a couple more questions I was told if I bring it down there they will fix it for free, otherwise they only pay for parts. Will see what i get out of it on Tuesday.

Was really looking forward to the first weekend with the car, weather is just perfect

Thanks to all of you for your help, learned a lot in the last 2 days

[JUS BIT]

Originally Posted by klausflorida

Got my BDR delivered yesterday at 10 pm, couldn't wait and took it out, lights went dead after 10 miles, appears to be the steering column switch that has not enough tension under vibration.
I didn't get a real car manual even though I bought it new and I have a red light on the dashboard which I have no idea what it means. Red just means something wrong for me.

Car has a Roush 427R in it and it shakes too violent if I drive it at constant speed between 2000-3000 rpm, not sure if this is ok or not. I know this kind engine runs rough, but it feels like it is too much, maybe the carbs need to be synced, not sure.

Brake feels like doing nothing, might be normal, but how should it feel compared to a modern car?

I would appreciate it if anyone has a manual or at least tells me what all the lights one the dashboard are for.

I am really sorry to hear that you had this many problems with your new BDR. I know these are new cars and they have to be shaken down to get all the bugs out. As a long time dealer for Backdraft Racing, we have seen all types of small issues here and there on almost every build. These are hand built in a factory and then hand assembled for the drive train. Knowing that, when every BDR is built here at Radical Roadsters of Texas, we do a complete check of all the suspension, brakes, steering, chassis, electronics, etc. before any car is delivered to the customer. Often, that is around 100 miles.

Once the BDR is driven quite a few times we triple check the same checklist of items and also ensure all the components we installed for the engine/drivetrain are working and tuned properly. This prevents the customers from having minimal issues after delivery.

But these are custom built cars, and it usually takes about 500 miles to sort out all the little quirks that might come up. So at 500 miles you should definitely take the car in for a 500 mile service to your closest dealer or adequate hot rod shop. Your book should have the 500 mile service checklist in it. If you don't have it, I can send it along electronically.

By the way, I have the same color combo built here at Radical Roadsters for a customer locally. It is a gorgeous car.

For the red lights, one is the low brake fluid and the other is the no charging light. That Roush 427 probably has a single wire alternator so that light will not be used, they are only used on the 3 wire alts. Your brake fluid must have gone somewhere. If you cant find a leak on the line or at the calipers, then it is most likely in the inside of the booster. If so, you have a problem that needs to be addressed asap. That brake fluid will ruin a booster quickly. The master cylinder and booster will have to be replaced. Also why you have no brakes..

The shaking at 2000-3000 RPM is most likely a suspect of imbalance with the flywheel, clutch, or drive shaft. First make sure your motor mounts are tight to the frame as well as the trans mount. Then, if that is not the case, maybe the clutch is not balanced with the flywheel if it shakes that much. Or the flywheel is out of balance or the wrong weight. For 427s it could be a zero balanced or 28 ounce balanced flywheel, you would need to check with Roush on which one you got.

Lastly, the yellow light is the fan on light, the blue is the high beam (activated by pulling the blinker arm towards you), and the green is the blinker...

If you ever need some input, feel free to reach out to me any time as I am not on this forum often enough to answer questions. Best of luck and that is a beautiful car!

James