Sticky Steering

[Sledge]

I'm trying to isolate the steering column u-joints from the rest of the steering system to track down the last vestiges of some sticky steering. We found some binding at the top of the shock struts at the sperical ball(s), and that got rid of a majority of the stickiness. The binding appeared to be caused by changing the front camber from -1.5 to -2, to accomodate new wheels with slightly different offset. I have the BDR camber plates installed.

Since I can feel some small changes in force required to turn the steering wheel from lock to lock (with the car jacked up) which seem to be in the same spots (vs random), I think we are down to a binding u-joint or a manual steering rack issue. What is the easiest way to get the steering shaft with the u-joints off the car or disconnected from the steering rack? It looks like I may have to unbolt the rack to get the necessary slack/clearance to remove the top and bottom u-joints. Is there an easier way?

BDR #168, circa 2004, this problem just showed up a couple of months ago. It is not severe but it is annoying. Alignment has been checked and re-checked and the mechanical components have been checked and are structurally sound, but something is still a little sticky.

Thanks

[Kobura]

I believe that my car has the same type of behavior that you describe for your car. It is a slight resistance to turning the steering wheel left at approximately half the way to full lock. It is somewhat bothersome but not a serious problem to me. I think that the problem lies in the steering rack, but just a WAG. It would be nice if someone chimed in with more information on this.

[Ozzie Goat]

Mine is different.
Sticks on center, doesn’t want to move.
Then snaps free and is smooth
Equally both directions.

To answer OP, disconnect at end of steering column in the Engine bay.
Then I could tell it was the u-joints and not the other parts.

Have the replacement from BDR have not installed

[Sledge]

Thanks Goat, er Ozzie. I have unbolted both ends of the u-jointed shaft, but there is not enough slack or free play to remove the shaft itself. Did you drop the steering box or ? to get the free play?

Thanks,

[Ozzie Goat]

Hey Bill it's Roy (Ozzie Goat was my '04 GTO)

After removing those screws I jacked up the front end iirc
then moving the wheels back/forth I could tell the steering box was not comproised, and concluded it was those pesky u-joints. I should have said that at first.

After that, just re-align those screws and you're back to square one.

[MISFIT 1]

I had the same issue, ended up having to replace the rack.

[Sledge]

Roy, maybe my car is built differently from yours, but even when I remove the bolt from the u-joint to steering box at the lower end of the shaft, and remove the two bolts at the upper end of the shaft, I can not get the shaft disconnected from the steering box or from the shaft that goes to the steering wheel. I don't know if all BDR's are this way, but the u-joints are welded to the shaft, not bolted on. Thus taking off the bolts does not completely uncouple the steering shaft from the box. At least on my beast. I have to do something else. Oh well, I've spent so much time trying to avoid work, I might just as well just drop the box a couple of inches so I can remove the shaft, then re-install the box to verify the culprit.

Thanks and Cheers,

[Sledge]

Misfit--what vintage BDR do you own, and how many miles are on it?

Thanks,

[Ozzie Goat]

Same challenge, and the clamp at the box end I can't break loose.
So, removing those two screws above the headers from the column allow that to spin free.
Sitting in the car the column also felt correct.
Rotating the tires back and forth was smooth as glass. So, for me, that only leaves those two stinking u-joints. I lube them, but it really doesn't help.

hope that helps.

[MISFIT 1]

I believe it #520 and about 8k miles.

when my steering was sticking I thought the same thing, its the joints. take all joints loose to expose the rack input shaft and turn it slowly with pliers. I felt the stick while doing this test. if you or now of someone with a lift this is a very easy test from below. below is a link to another thread on this issue:

BDR: Steering binding – Do I replace the rack ??

[Sledge]

Ray--If you are not disconnecting the bottom of the steering shaft from the steering box then you are not isolating the u-joints when you are manually moving the wheels from lock to lock. They should still be rotating. I think.

Misfit: I get what you are saying but there is not enough clearance in my system to remove the lower steering shaft without having to drop the steering box. Unless there is an easy way to change the end location of the upper steering shaft (the one that is nearly horizontal above the headers, and goes thru the firewall).

Cheers

[IMLost]

Sledge.
I'm #178 so our cars are similar. Just a thought because i just changed them myself. Have you checked the bearing/bushing in the steering column? They were "home made" from the E-36 steering column. Good ones will also eliminate some of the front end shimmering.It may not be relevant but worth looking at.

[IMLost]

FYI don't drop the box pull out the steering wheel with the shaft attached. EASY to do.

[Gaz64]

Sounds like a universal joint.

I had a customers car (not a Cobra), that would go near solid intermittently.

I took the car home at one night because nobody could fault it.

Sure enough next day it did it to me, scary.

I found a coupling not far enough onto the rack which would put that next joint through too much angle.

Once fitted correctly, the joint was happy.

Lesson is, universal joints shouldn't go past 30 degrees.

Gary

[Sledge]

Thank you gents.

Lost: were you able to buy a replacement bushing, or did you have to make one? Mine appears to be some sort of plastic gizmo but I haven't got a good look at it yet.

Gaz, I appreciate what you are saying. If I make a hard left turn and then go straight, and release the wheel, the car will continue to track straight ahead or sometimes drift left. If I make a hard right turn then go straight then release the wheel, the car will drift right pretty much every time. No lock ups thank goodness. I still haven't ruled out tie rod ends but I was able to eliminate ball joints yesterday. I'd order tie rod ends but it appears there are many different shapes out there with different tapers so I'm kinda unsure how to proceed in that regard.

I tried to drop the steering box yesterday but was unsuccessful so I still haven't been able to isolate the box from the steering shaft.

Best regards,

[MOTORHEAD]

I had to pull the u-jointed shafts in the engine comp when we would install a mustang P/S rack. To get the clearance you need to remove the fwd shaft, you have to loosen the steering column U clamp in the eng comp., and the clamp under the dash, and pull the column aft.

Ted

[MOTORHEAD]

I had to pull the u-jointed shafts in the engine comp when we would install a mustang P/S rack. To get the clearance you need to remove the fwd shaft, you have to loosen the steering column U clamp in the eng comp., and the clamp under the dash, and pull the column aft.

Ted